Miller DC20 8x4

Tracy Popplewell · Post by **Tracy Popplewell** » 21 Jul 2020 10:43 pm

New guy here thanks for having me. Well after a good look around it seems like I may have committed every no no an absolute new guy could do lol. I have a session 500 I use with my 6 string guitar come to find out its to heavy and this Miller Custom I have is a pull release, also heavy and looks like it is going to be a real jewel to restring and tune from what I am reading. I may have traded a bit more than it was worth also lol. My current seat is an old claw foot spin top piano bench, that's a whole new balancing act...but I got it so I guess that makes me the winner. I have a lot to learn before I even get behind it but I am pleased with the tone on it and the levers seem to be smooth in action without a bunch of noise. Thank you for the post involving this type of guitar I am sure it is going to be a huge help! Any good playing references I could listen to with this set-up? Any info or tips well appreciated.

Gene Tani · Post by **Gene Tani** » 22 Jul 2020 1:04 am

Nice, you are not just becoming a player but also a preservationist of American history (assuming it was made in the States)

Do you have closer up pix of top of changer and cabinet underside ? Thanks

Rick Abbott · Post by **Rick Abbott** » 22 Jul 2020 5:27 am

That Miller looks to be well maintained. Do not adjust anything very much. If you feel something has to move a lot to be right you might be making a mistake. Once set up, these are very stable and need only tiny tweaks to tune. The pull-rods are covered in shrink tube which looks like the work of someone who has a clue about Miller. Simmons Steels is your best resource for advice on any major work.

Nice guitar, and probably one of the late ones from the mid-70's. No sure I've ever seen one with aluminum necks. Cool!

Rick Abbott · Post by **Rick Abbott** » 22 Jul 2020 5:29 am

Gene Tani wrote:Nice, you are not just becoming a player but also a preservationist of American history (assuming it was made in the States)

Do you have closer up pix of top of changer and cabinet underside ? Thanks

They were made in Chillicothe, Illinois by a dude named Roger Miller...not the singer.

Gary Patterson · Post by **Gary Patterson** » 23 Jul 2020 4:36 am

Aluminum neck: I had a "starter" model consisting of an aluminum box frame and an aluminum neck, finished in black crinkle paint. The top deck was a flat board, and it was the only wood on the instrument.

Tracy Popplewell · Post by **Tracy Popplewell** » 26 Jul 2020 3:12 pm

I will get some better pics for those that is interested sometime this coming week. I have lost my disabled daughter 7/22/2020 after 36 years of constant care. I am not fishing for condolences and such, but rather I dont want to be the poster that post and you never hear from again. I will be back..thank you.

Tracy Popplewell · Post by **Tracy Popplewell** » 13 Aug 2020 6:11 pm

Tracy Popplewell · Post by **Tracy Popplewell** » 13 Aug 2020 6:18 pm

Steve Waltz · Post by **Steve Waltz** » 14 Aug 2020 10:27 am

I would get a micrometer or whatever you call it so you can measure the strings on the guitar to get the best idea of what string set gauge is on it. This way you might be able to tune it up and just play it without messing up everything when you don't know how to adjust it. Maybe the string set is in the case? Any slight change in string size will make tuning difficult.

Tuning order and method is mandatory, this isn't a normal guitar. Do a search on pull release tuning and also know that each one can be different as far as where the adjustment is made and how at least for the knee levers. You tune some strings with A and B pedals down and then tune them in the open position at the back of the changer. Knees will get difficult from there. What looks like a feel stop on a knee lever might actually be how a lower or raise is tuned on a string that already has a lower or raise. Both E lowers or raises might have a way to tune one of the strings to match the other when the overall motion is controlled by a stop on the knee lever.

All of this will make more sense if you either learn this before removing the strings, assuming the prior owner had it set up properly, since it should all work if you tune it in the right order.

It's my opinion that too many people start rebuilding things, polishing or making changes on a guitar that just needs to be left alone for a while and played. Seriously, don't restring it yet....learn to tune that guitar and see what you have.

It does look like you have micro adjustments on individual string pulls at the back of the pull rod with threaded rods with adjustable nuts there. You also might have stops on lowers on the C6th neck on the end of the rod as well. A very close up picture of the end of one of those rods with the compression springs would help to give you an opinion on those.

And yes I have one so I'm familiar with those.

Tracy Popplewell · Post by **Tracy Popplewell** » 14 Aug 2020 11:54 am

What you mention pretty much sums up what I am trying to do here. First and foremost everything seems to be in working order and smooth without a lot of clanging or unnatural feel to the movements. I only mention new strings because at some point every string instrument will need them. I am currently researching the pull release system and how it works( former machinist so some things do make sense) The guitar itself is in tune just not at the right pitch. While trying to follow along with some instruction material, I found right off that the C6 was very close to pitch but the E9 is way off. If the video is starting on the 3rd fret for instance I have to be on the 5th to be on pitch with them...gets irritating when they are calling out fret position that I then have to adjust for lol My main thing is to work and learn with what I have. I have no interest in rebuilding or modding the guitar in any way...unless new strings at some point, when needed, falls under this category.

Steve Waltz · Post by **Steve Waltz** » 14 Aug 2020 12:42 pm

Maybe some one tuned it to D9th and that is your two fret difference. If they did, changing to E9th will really change everything up. If so, might want to leave that for a while.

I understand changing strings. Old ones need to be changed. It was only about getting to know how to tune that guitar first and then change strings later.

I find the C6th changes easier to set up and I think you only have the 3rd string 1/2 lower on one knee.

BTW, flip it over and drop a bunch of Triflow on the changer fingers so it gets between the fingers to keep things moving in that area. You could loosen the strings and slide the axle out and lube that too without removing too much but if changes are returning then you don't need to do that right now.

Patrick Huey · Post by **Patrick Huey** » 22 Aug 2020 7:36 pm

Put wheels on the Session 500

Barry Coker · Post by **Barry Coker** » 23 Aug 2020 5:01 am

I agree with Rick Abbott Simmons Steels would be your best place for info on these Millers. Bob was a sales rep and repair tec for Miller back in the day. He also still builds a few Pull Release guitars and knows the system as well or better than anyone.
I owned one of these back in the 70's and they are a tank great tone and stable. As far as strings I remember when I changed strings they were from a standard set but Bob can tell you the best set for that guitar.

Good Luck
Barry

The Steel Guitar Forum

Miller DC20 8x4

Miller DC20 8x4

Thanks Steve