The Steel Guitar Forum

I have a Mullen PRP SD-10, and my E lever isn't returning to pitch after I lower it.
This was happening a few months ago, and I took it to Bill at Williams Guitars (I'm fortunate to live less than an hour from him). He solved it and went through the whole guitar too. He didn't remove the changer, but he lubed everything up and gave it a good look-through. The guitar was playing fabulously, and then it sat for a couple months while I was gigging with a different guitar. I've noticed that the problem is back, and I'm wondering if there's an easy fix. Maybe something I can loosen or adjust. I'm up in Minnesota where it's been winter lately, but the guitar has been in a warm finished basement where it hasn't moved since I brought it back from the Williams shop.
Any ideas? Thanks!

Are both strings returning flat or just one?

I'll have to check when I get home to make sure, but I feel like it's just string 4 that is returning flat.

You can try tightening the return spring, but in my experience, they are already tightened much as they will go unless someone has loosened it to maybe soften the feel.

Else, lube the scissors, finger. You'll probably need to replace the return spring for a permanent fix though. I had to do that on 2 PRP Mullen guitars.

You might check for any ball ends that may have slipped into the changer. That happened to me many years ago on my Dekley. There were 3 of them wedged between the fingers.

I’ve had a sticky roller on the nut cause that problem more than once. Most times a drop of oil between the roller and the axel will fix it. Once I had to remove the rollers then clean and polish everything.

Any Idea's ? Sure

But don't start fixing it until you know exactly what is causing the issue.

You didn't say, is it both 4 and 8 or just one or the other ?

First. ALWAYS first. Release ( loosen) all pulls related to the string that won't return. All 4th string or ALL 8th string pulls. For the 4th string don't forget the C Pedal.

Raises and Lowers.

Re-adjust ONLY the 4th or 8th string lower, does it function ?

IF it does, start adding the other PULLS, check them as you go until you find the one interfering.

If it doesn't , pull the rod, then push the "lower finger" on the changer end , does it return ?

Find out what the issue is before you start fixing things.

Something is preventing the return, don't assume it is a spring until you KNOW it is a spring. Swap springs if you need to check it.

ALSO- DO NOT start adding LUBE !

The roller nut is always a good thing to check as well,( as stated above) Roller nuts should be removed with each string set change , cleaned and lubed. Its a primary point of contact and we want zero friction if possible.

Tony is absolutely right! Follow his instructions. A systematic approach to tracking down a problem is always the best way to go. The rest of us were too quick to reply without thinking things through.
This question has come up a lot over the years. I think I’ll copy Tony’s post so I can just paste it the next time I see someone with that problem.

Tony, thanks for that well deserved slap in the face!

Dan Behringer wrote:Tony is absolutely right! Follow his instructions. A systematic approach to tracking down a problem is always the best way to go. The rest of us were too quick to reply without thinking things through.
This question has come up a lot over the years. I think I’ll copy Tony’s post so I can just paste it the next time I see someone with that problem.

Tony, thanks for that well deserved slap in the face!

Nahh, not to worry, its all good ! All opinions count

please send $5 to me !


I didn't invent this approach but I did use it for electronic service/repair for a few decades on very high ticket items . We actually can't fix anything until we know what the real source of the problem is, everything else is just a symptom.

Trust me, I've chased many symptoms to "no end" in my career !


Regarding the LUBE thing, a couple of years back I bought a Steel from a fella which must have been oiled or lubed weekly, the changer was leaking black goo. I had every intention to pull both changers so it didn't matter. I think they both had a quart of oil each , no dipstick ! Oil sitting on top of oil sitting on top of other oil, etc...makes for a mess.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to have to do some more careful investigation this weekend.

I realized last night that the problem occurs on both 4 and 8. I can get them back to pitch by engaging and releasing the F lever. The E lever is the only change that is sticking

When I brought it to Bill Rudoiph a few months ago, I was initially thinking that he was going to have to pull the changer out. He seemed pretty sure that it wasn't an issue with the changer, and whatever he did fixed the problem initially. I think I will give him a call soon. We had a nice long chat at his workshop, so I bet he'll remember the situation.

On the pre RP first thing that is easy to check... There is a collar on the back of each cross rod. You need to make sure there is a little play front to back. If the cross rod does not have a little play it will bind up. If there is no play then you can loosen that collar and give it a little. If the body were to swell it would cause this issue. This was addressed when we came out with the RP and G2, they have floating bushings that move with the body. This may or may not help but hope it does.

Back the nylon tuner off before anything else, does it return?

My 1996 Mullen D-10 started doing the same thing. After I tried everything I could think of I contacted Mike at Mullen guitars and did just what he described above, including re-setting the tension on the set screw on the back end of the cross rod. That took care of it.

Just wanted to follow up on this, in case others are experiencing the same problem in the future.

It was indeed the metal collars on the crossrods that needed to be loosened and adjusted. It was a very easy fix. I'm assuming the guitar body contracted with the winter weather.

Thanks to everyone for their help!

Just had the exact same problem on PRP. Indeed the cross shaft collar was binding. Thanks so much!!!

Glad it worked for you guys. It's usually something simple on a Mullen.

Dustin Kleingartner wrote:I'm assuming the guitar body contracted with the winter weather.

The seasonal swings in humidity in the Land of Lakes is substantial, and can have a profound effect on musical instruments. When I lived up there, I used to have separate bridge saddles for summer and winter for my flattop guitars, and my electrics often needed seasonal truss-rod tweaks. Never had that issue with my lap steels or my push-pulls, however.