The Steel Guitar Forum

I want to know best order to put new string on my D-10can anyone help me thanks
I have the order for a 12 string steel.

I dunno, I just take them all off, clean the fretboard, clean and lube the rollers, clean the finger bridges then put them all back on, starting with the FAT strings. I do tune UNDER pitch slowly and stretch them all a bit before going to pitch, just like I do with my guitars. I don't know if I am violating any unwritten rules that will place me in STRING CHANGING JAIL , but for many decades I've never had an issue !

When I had my first PSG I was very cautious about any maintenance task, but it soon occurred to me that if it was sensitive to what order you changed the strings in, then it would hardly put up with being mashed once they were on. We are not torquing down a cylinder head here.

I do as Tony does. I always do it the same way. Nothing like changing strings before a gig and discovering too late that the string is in finger 3 but post 2 and it is now a bit too short to reseat in post 3. Not wanting to scare up another 3rd string, you do it anyway, only getting maybe 2 wraps and pay the price at the gig later when the string starts to loosen every time you press the B pedal. You're at the intro to "Somewhere in Texas" when she finally cuts loose and you end up whistling your part into the mic.

I do as Tony does. I always do it the same way.

I start by removing string #10 & #9. Clean the fret board, drop of oil for the nut rollers and changer fingers. Then put new 10th string on and tune up until almost to pitch. Then remove string #8, clean fret board, oil roller & changer finger. THEN put string #9 on tune up. Then remove #7. Put on #8. etc. Having the "next" string off/out-of-way as I work from the nut to the top of the keyhead gives room for my fingers to thread string on to shaft of tuning key and lock it under the wrap's as it winds up to pitch. Same for the high string s only starting with #1 & #2 and work out from #1 to #5 on the keyhead. Works for me! JE:-)>

I pull em all off, clean/lube everything, and restring the middle ones (5 and 6 on the 10 string, 6 and 7 on the 12) first, as they are the hardest posts to get to when it’s all strung up

I take the side cutters and cut them all on both necks and remove the pieces from the tuners. I then oil the rollers and clean the fret boards. I polish the metal necks at the same time. I start from the outside and work my way to the number 10 C6 neck. I then under tune them and I grab each one and stretch them and tune them about 6 times then bring them up to pitch. Done for another year. I get my new strings from b0b before Christmas each year. Not one broken string last year. They take a beating all through the warm months doing Fairs and Festivals. At the end of each show I wipe the strings down with Fast Fret and a lint free rag. And away go to the next show.

I've never developed a set pattern to restringing either neck. I've probably used every variation possible. I've never found that it makes a bit of difference which strings go on first or last.

I never change any strings, just the broken ones. I clean them sometimes but the cloth usually never show any dirt or sweat as I my hands don’t sweat.
Once on a gig in the pause somebody opened a cocacola after shaking it close to my guitar.

Same as Tony and others, remove all and clean and lube changer, roller nut and nut axle (when performing this project, check to see if your rollers are gauged rather than all alike. If not certain, best to reinstall them in the exact order that they were removed). One method that to me is helpful is to install strings 1-5 and then 10-6. I place them in this order and double check packaging before installing to avoid mistakes. If using D'Addario XL's, check the color of the string ball for correct gauge as they are not packaged individually.

If I am cleaning my guitar, I remove all but string 10. It really doesn't get in the way of cleaning. Then I put string 9 on and tune it to a B note (same as 10). That way I can now change string 10, tune it to the B on string 9. Then I go ahead and tune 9 to a D. Then I put on string 8, and continue on up. By starting on the low strings, I always have a reference note for tuning the string I am installing. I get the string to the pitch of the string below it (in pitch), and can tune it to it's correct pitch after that. No tuner needed until I get them stretched and start fine tuning.

If I am not cleaning the guitar, I change strings in the same order, but remove each one as I change it.

I take them all off and clean everything up. Then I start at the bottom and work toward the middle then go to the top and work toward the middle. It's easier to get to the tuners without all those strings in the way. (Keyed guitar). Ron

I put them on in 1-10 order (because that's the way I always tune - from the top down). But in reality, it makes no difference to the guitar. One thing I do suggest, though, is to never pre-cut or pre-bend the strings.

I start with the outside shortest strings and work my way to the center just so it is easy to trim the excess length with a pair of wire cutters. That way the other strings don't get in the way.
Like mentioned above a good time to clean and if needed lubricate.
Also as stated above I tune a little low and then raise it slowly. That is best on the 3rd G# to avoid breaking it.
If your changing a broken string during a gig that's not a option unless the next tune don't need the 3rd string.
The other strings can get up to pitch quicker because they are stronger.

Larry, you state you have a 12 string re-stringing system. Maybe you could just modify that for the 10 string if it's been working well for you.

Is it a chart that you have? I'd be interested in seeing a photo of it and the method you used.

Ronald Moore wrote:I take them all off and clean everything up. Then I start at the bottom and work toward the middle then go to the top and work toward the middle. It's easier to get to the tuners without all those strings in the way. (Keyed guitar). Ron

That is how I do it too, along with clean and lube.

Just for fun once in a while I’ll put on a motorcycle helmet and take the wire cutters to the old strings without de-tuning first.

Fred Treece wrote:

Ronald Moore wrote:I take them all off and clean everything up. Then I start at the bottom and work toward the middle then go to the top and work toward the middle. It's easier to get to the tuners without all those strings in the way. (Keyed guitar). Ron

That is how I do it too, along with clean and lube.

Just for fun once in a while I’ll put on a motorcycle helmet and take the wire cutters to the old strings without de-tuning first.

That's not my idea of fun. If I want FUN, I don't use a helmet of goggles, and use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) to cut the strings.

I change string fairly often..but not like the pro's..However I dont lube changer but once or twice a year..VERY lightly at that...I think over lubing has its own drawbacks as well. I usually put on 1 & 2,light tention..then put on 10 & 9..probably not necessary but I'm trying to keep a equal 'cross ' tention on my roller shaft..maybe I should start in the middle and work out....or maybee I'm over thinking...as usual..

Richard Sinkler wrote:

Fred Treece wrote:Just for fun once in a while I’ll put on a motorcycle helmet and take the wire cutters to the old strings without de-tuning first.

That's not my idea of fun. If I want FUN, I don't use a helmet of goggles, and use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) to cut the strings.

We should do a seminar.

Before you do anything take pic of how strings are wound around tuners. You want to get strings in straight line from changer to nut roller to where it ends up on tuner post, 5 and 6 will be wound differently, and you want to get the 3rd string wound like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkdbQOwvi8w

(Ironically, the Mullen owners manual says to do something different)

I don't use a helmet or sawzall, I do use a little insert for electric drill, goes over tuning key, makes winding strings fast, easy.

Tony Prior wrote:... I do tune UNDER pitch slowly and stretch them all a bit before going to pitch...

So do I, but stretch them UPwards !!!

I do it Tony's way as well. Here's my reasoning:

- For taking them all off at once, there's something satisfying about looking at the fretboard, keyhead, and changer without any strings. It reminds you that despite how complex it becomes when you're trying to make music on it, it is still a relatively simple machine (relative to things like cars); and that it is the person playing it who makes it more complicated than it actually is. The little things like that that you do to maintain and enhance your emotional connection with your instrument pay dividends. It also makes cleaning a lot more convenient, like Tony was getting at.

- For putting on the bottom strings first, those strings need more time to stretch out and stabilize. The few minutes it takes to work your way to the top strings help shorten the overall time until your instrument is ready to play again.

I never change strings the same day I have a gig. If you do you’ll be tweaking and re-tuning throughout the gig.

When actually changing a set or sets on a D10 I watch a movie while doing that. Changing strings is done by rote now and it’s a boring task.

Two things that help: I use a large, flat eraser to hold the string’s ball end on the changer finger or pin. And I make sure a string comes off the nut roller in a straight line to the tuner peg.

Fred Treece wrote:

Richard Sinkler wrote:

Fred Treece wrote:Just for fun once in a while I’ll put on a motorcycle helmet and take the wire cutters to the old strings without de-tuning first.

That's not my idea of fun. If I want FUN, I don't use a helmet of goggles, and use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) to cut the strings.

We should do a seminar.

Heck, just do a YouTube video. Find an ultra slo-mo video camera to borrow -- it should go viral!

--Al Evans

That’s a horrible idea, Al.
I like it. I can see it now...”The Gallagher of Steel Guitar”