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Author Topic:  Tuning
Donny Dennis


From:
Atlanta, Texas
Post  Posted 23 Sep 2006 4:05 pm    
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I am a beginner with a Carter Starter. I have had it for a little over a year, and have finally decided to get serious about learning how to play it. Am trying to tune it using the Jeff Newman E9 tuning chart. I have two tuners -- a Seiko ST-909, chromatic tuner, and a Peterson Strobo-flip tuner. I don't have enough experience to tune by ear so that's why I am using the tuners.

The Seiko tuner seems to be relatively easy to use although I don't know how accurate it is.

The Peterson Strobo-flip seems to be a little more difficult to use but is supposed to be very accurate. I am using the SE9 non-Equal temperament, and I understand that each particular note is in tune when the image is immobile. Therein lies my problem. I can not get the image to be completely immobile for each note. I can get the image to be immobile on some notes but on other notes the image has very slight movement.

Need your advice as to whether the Seiko ST-909, chromatic tuner is accurate enough or should I continue using the Peterson Strobo-flip to get each note perfectly tuned.

So far, I have only tuned (or tried to tune)the open strings (F#,D#,G#,E,B,G#,F#,E,D,B).
I want to start practicing on tablature but need to get it in tune first.

All advice/help is appreciated.

Regards,

Donny
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rpetersen


From:
Iowa
Post  Posted 23 Sep 2006 4:23 pm    
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I have a Seiko tuner and also had a Peterson tuner - I tuned with the Peterson and then checked it to the seiko - got the same numbers - I now just have a $15 Seiko

------------------
Ron Petersen - Rains SD10 5X5- Vegas 400 - ETC.

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Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 23 Sep 2006 4:25 pm    
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Either of those tuners will do the job for you but the Flip, once you get the hang of it, is (IMO) the easiest & most accurate from the standpoint of nailing down the pitch via electronic readout.

First of all, pluck the string with you bare thumb. No pick, no nail. The tuner gets a better, truer signal. See if this helps stabilize the tuner.

Your objective is to bring the left-most band of bars to a stop. Don't worry about the other bands. You always want to bring a string up to pitch so if you are sharp, lower the string and then bring it back up again.

If the string I am tuning is connected to a pull (pedal or knee), I like to hit the change and release it, then check the open string again.

It is essential that there be slack in the pulling system. When the strings are at rest, they need to be truly at rest and not suspended by the changer. If turning a nylon tuning nut at the changer changes the open string's tuning without any pedals engaged then it is over-tightened and needs to be backed off.

Hopefully this will help you a bit. I think the Peterson is great and since you have one, it would be good to make it work for you.

But, as I said, either of those tuners will do the job.
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