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Author Topic:  how high are your pedals?
Christopher Peck


From:
Seattle
Post  Posted 11 Oct 2021 6:51 pm    
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My B pedal is at 2.25" off the floor when raised and 1.75" when depressed. I'm thinking it'd be more comfortable and easier to roll my ankle with the pedals closer to the floor. Right now my B pedal hookup is spun down as far as I dare. A few more threads won't make that much difference anywho.
Anyone have any thoughts? How high are your pedals?
Is there such a thing as rod extensions or does that introduce another point of potential failure? Anyone know where to pick up extensions? I could take a rod down to the hardware store and see what they have in stock but it seems smart to ask people who've been playing at this contraption longer than I have.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree? It sure was comfy and I was able to operate the pedals more effectively with a thick book under my heel...

Thanks folks!
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 11 Oct 2021 7:36 pm    
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Chris, Do not be afraid to lower your B. Adjust it lower until it falls loose in your hand. That's the only way you'll know for sure how much lower you can go. Them screw it back on about 2 turns; at least that's where my Emmons has been holding for years. No need to live in fear my boy Smile BTW, My pedals sit at about 1 3/16s" off the floor.
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Christopher Peck


From:
Seattle
Post  Posted 11 Oct 2021 7:48 pm    
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Ron Pruter wrote:
Chris, Do not be afraid to lower your B. Adjust it lower until it falls loose in your hand. That's the only way you'll know for sure how much lower you can go. Them screw it back on about 2 turns; at least that's where my Emmons has been holding for years. No need to live in fear my boy Smile BTW, My pedals sit at about 1 3/16s" off the floor.


She's already down to the last three threads Amigo! 1 3/16" sounds like a dream to me right now. Guess I need to figure out what size standoffs I need and shoot an order in to McMaster-Carr.
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Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 4:13 am    
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All mechanical discussions need identification of what guitar is being discussed. There are many commonalities in pedal steels but there are many exceptions.
If the pedal rack attaches to the legs as in this picture, be certain that it is as high as it can go, tight to the knurled leg adjuster. This will yield the lowest pedal setting. Some other guitars have a fixed position via holes in the legs or other methods that make this a moot point.


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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 4:32 am    
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I always adjusted pedals so they bottom out at the same level. This resulted in the A and C pedals being higher than B. That's the way it was with a Franklin with factory rodding. However, with a GFI all the pedals are at the same height, more or less parallel with floor and still bottom out the same.

Difference in two steel brands and the reason Jon noted we need to know what steel brand (and model) you have.
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Christopher Peck


From:
Seattle
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 5:31 am    
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Just for reference it's an older BMI S10.



I do have the pedal bar up against the stop as high as it'll go. At first I had it against the bottom of the stops but after a short while figured it wouldn't slide down if I didn't stomp on the pedals like they owed me money.
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Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 5:39 am    
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Coincidentally, I learned most of my lessons re: pedal height and pedal rack position on a BMI. No matter how tight I fastened it, it would slip. My solution (pretty effective) was to adhere a piece of 400 grit sandpaper to the face of the flat piece with rubber or contact cement. I was cranking that wing nut so tight I feared snapping the bolt or stripping the threads one day.

But if you've got the rack optimally positioned on the leg, this is all side chatter re: your pedal height problem.
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Ronnie Boettcher


From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 6:07 am    
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I have posted this a few times already. You can extend your pedal rods for less than $10. (3 pedals). My rods are a 10/32 thread, but yours might be different. Take a rod to your hardware store. They can tell you what threads you have. Ten just buy a rod coupling for each rod. also buy a nut for each one. Then buy some all thread, or a few long screws, of the same size. Cut the screws the length yyou want, just using the threaded part, Screw the nut on the rad, then the coupling, then screw the piece of cut rod into the coupling, and then the connector to the pedal. when you get the length you want, screw the nut down to the coupling, and tighten it, to make it secure.
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Larry Dering


From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 6:13 am    
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The Forum store has rod extensions. You definitely need to experiment with the height. I adjust so they are level when depressed. Like most it makes A and C higher at rest.
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Chris Templeton


From:
The Green Mountain State
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 6:46 am    
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There's also the shag rug pedal hight.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 7:06 am    
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Jon Light wrote:
Coincidentally, I learned most of my lessons re: pedal height and pedal rack position on a BMI. No matter how tight I fastened it, it would slip. My solution (pretty effective) was to adhere a piece of 400 grit sandpaper to the face of the flat piece with rubber or contact cement. I was cranking that wing nut so tight I feared snapping the bolt or stripping the threads one day.

But if you've got the rack optimally positioned on the leg, this is all side chatter re: your pedal height problem.


I had a problem on a GFI Ultra D-10 pedal rack. The wing nuts for the clamp to hold the rack to the leg would work loose. Adding an internal lock washer cured the wing nut loosening problem.
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Bill Terry


From:
Bastrop, TX
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 8:32 am    
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Chris wrote:
There's also the shag rug pedal hight.

Playing on any rug presents a whole new set of problems.. I have my pedals adjusted so that the down position is still high enough off the floor that it doesn't (usually) cause a problem with hitting carpet pile before it bottoms out. The downside is it sits a bit higher maybe than some folks would like (P/P btw). You never know what surface you might end up playing on. Some guys haul around a piece of plywood just in case. I'm not crazy about that solution.. coasters or ashtrays under the feet is another work around. Sorry topic drift...

Steel guitars are a complete study of endless compromises if you ask me.. Smile Whatever works.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 9:10 am    
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Ronnie Boettcher wrote:
I have posted this a few times already. You can extend your pedal rods for less than $10. (3 pedals). My rods are a 10/32 thread, but yours might be different. Take a rod to your hardware store. They can tell you what threads you have. Ten just buy a rod coupling for each rod. also buy a nut for each one. Then buy some all thread, or a few long screws, of the same size. Cut the screws the length yyou want, just using the threaded part, Screw the nut on the rad, then the coupling, then screw the piece of cut rod into the coupling, and then the connector to the pedal. when you get the length you want, screw the nut down to the coupling, and tighten it, to make it secure.


Just buy some set screws with the same threads so no need to cut anything, at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch length (assuming 1" lifts), loctite the end into the standoff (I put the end with the hex head into the standoff so I can adjust it with the hex key before using a tint bit of blue loctite). If only going with 1/2 or 1/4 inch lifts (which I have made before) The set screw will need to be shorter. I want the set screw to go in half way up the standoff and half into the balljoint.
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Gene Tani


From:
Pac NW
Post  Posted 12 Oct 2021 9:22 am    
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These are the extenders that the forum store sells, which are the nicest ones i've seen and might as well help keep the lights on https://www.steelguitarshopper.com/brands/Show-Pro.html

If you need shorter ones, they're called hex standoffs or spacer/extender/coupling nuts and speciality fastener stores like McMaster or Grainger have them in stock, also places for electronics parts, they're commonly used to separate PCBs
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