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Topic: Dating a Fender |
Ken Higgins
From:
Canyon Tx
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Posted 3 Aug 2009 3:57 am |
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| I have a single 10 3&1 with serial number 1771 stamped on the body and endplate. Does anyone have an idea of when this guitar was produced? Thanks for any info..... |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 3 Aug 2009 5:07 am
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| Sounds like a Fender "Artist Model". Made by Sho~Bud, the only thing Fender about them were the tuning pans, the fretboards, and of course...the nameplates. Actually, being a lot more of a rebranded Sho~Bud, they occupy the netherworld of being neither brand to some players. Yours probably dates to 1976. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 3 Aug 2009 5:53 am
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Actually the 3+1 is the Student model - a Shobud Maverick in Fender clothing. The artist models had additional knee levers and an actual neck. Every 3+1 I've seen is just a rectangular box.
Specific dating of any Fender steel is not possible; they used no systematic serial numbers, pots were bought in bulk ('56 pots show up well into the 70's) and there are no other specifically identifying marks. Some older cable models have dates written in under the peghead - but just as many don't making those dates a little suspect.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Ken Higgins
From:
Canyon Tx
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Posted 4 Aug 2009 3:51 am
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| Thanks for the info Donny and Jim. Yeah there isn't a raised neck on this one but there are rods instead of cables. The RKR lowers the E's. I think I'll stop by Gary Carpenter's and see about adding another lever to raise the E's. When I took it out of the case this weekend it was still in tune from about 5 years ago. Thanks again for the help. |
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David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
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Posted 4 Aug 2009 10:39 am
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| Ken, if it's the Fender/Sho-Bud Maverick, it is a pull-and-release changer with "coat-hanger" pull rods. You can't raise and lower the same string. The stock change on the one KL was to lower the 2nd string D# to D, and lower the 8th string E. If you add another lever, you could raise the 4th string E. Then you would have the high E raised and the low E lowered, which I think is what Lloyd Green has always used. Some people have tried to raise and lower the same string by balancing the changer finger in the middle of its range with springs. Don't know how successful that is. |
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Ken Higgins
From:
Canyon Tx
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Posted 4 Aug 2009 2:58 pm
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| Dave, thanks for the wonderful insight on the workings of this steel. I just took it out of the case but didn't play on it. I have a custom Carson Wells D-10 with the Emmons setup. This Fender has a Day setup. I have a crushed left ankle so thought I would try the Day setup. I will be getting a Dr's advise on a total ankle replacement Monday so we will see. Again thanks, I always enjoy reading your suggestions and info. |
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Bob Hickish
From:
Port Ludlow, Washington, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 4 Aug 2009 3:52 pm
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Howdy Ken
to answer Dave’s comment on raise & lower on a Fender
student steel -- it does work quite well , it requires a couple
small modifications --- if you looking for a RkR & RnL you could
do a 3 & 2 no problem and the raise & lower are fairly stable .
Hick |
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Ian Sutton
From:
San Francisco, CA
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Posted 5 Aug 2009 6:03 am
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Bob,
Do you have any more information on what's required to add more knees on the Fender Student? Thanks very much.
Ian |
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Bob Hickish
From:
Port Ludlow, Washington, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 5 Aug 2009 8:13 am
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Ian
what is needed is a pice of angle mounted behind the changer arms
with a set screw behind each arm for a positive stop .
then a third hole drilled in arms 4 & 8
the cross shafts can be made out of an allen wrench from the local hardware
store -- the pull rods can be made out of welding rod .
tuning the E lower you tune the 4th and 8th D# - then with the pull-rod adjust
you tune it up to E -- when the lever is engaged the D# is against the positive
stop at the changer -- with the third hole in the changer arm , the raise lever is
set to raise the E --- there has to be enough slack in the Raise
pull rod so not to get in the way of the lowering -- it a slack set up but it works
well -
Hick
3rd hole photo
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Dave Burr
From:
League City, TX
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Posted 5 Aug 2009 9:48 am
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Where's HowardR when we need him...?  
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Respectfully,
david burr |
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basilh
From:
United Kingdom
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Posted 26 Jul 2019 8:21 am
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Sho-Bud built 4400 guitars for Fender between 1976 and 1977 (3 shifts working 7 days a week) The top of the range was The Artist Dual Pro D10 (8 + 4) followed by the Artist S10 (3 + 4) and then the Fender Student S10 with 3 + 1. Two colors available Black and Mahogany Lacquer.
Shot wasn't involved in this venture, It was the "Music City Mfg.," company, owned by David Jackson that did the Fender contract. 4400 steels were made for Fender in a one year period by David Jackson. There is a common misconception, everyone thinks that Shot Jackson was at head of Sho-Bud, but it was his son David
_________________
Steelies do it without fretting
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 26 Jul 2019 9:19 am
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| Sounds like a Fender "Artist Model". Made by Sho~Bud, the only thing Fender about them were the tuning pans, the fretboards, and of course...the nameplates. Actually, being a lot more of a rebranded Sho~Bud, they occupy the netherworld of being neither brand to some players. Yours probably dates to 1976. |
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_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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