The Steel Guitar Forum

That green coating shobud used for early 70's Pro11 undercarraige. Anyone know the formula? Thanks!

ShoBud used a white texturing there in the early 70's; I don't know what the texture is made out of; sorry.
BUT; you mentioned "Green Coating"....what you are seeing is a little Emerald Green food coloring that was used for the finish of the new LDG that came out in May 1973; as they added that to the White Texturing for any ShoBud made during the first year of the LDG... May 1973-May 1974.
Ricky

Thanks Ricky. Seems to be some kind of speckled texture mixed in. Maybe Shobud folks know something.

I am curious what the actual color is. I have a 1976 that requires some touch up and have been wondering what color to use.

Mark I said the color in my post above. It was "Emerald Green" they would put a few drops in the regular "White" texture they made to spray on bottom of the ShoBud's from 1973-1974.
Steven; do you have a pic of the underneath....don't know what the speckled texture is; shobud didn't use speckle on anything...ha.
Ricky

Thanks Ricky, I have a few spots on top that had damage from a previous owner. I may try and touch it up.

No Prob Mark. Back then; they used "Emerald Green food coloring" and "Nitrocellulose Lacquer"
Ricky

Ricky, do you have a preferred product for texturing/flocking the bottom of the guitars you work on? I have an older, hard used Bud that needs some love.

Mark Draycott wrote:I am curious what the actual color is. I have a 1976 that requires some touch up and have been wondering what color to use.

I'm thinking that you could clean a spot on the bottom of the guitar, and then try to match that with those paint color-strips available at Lowes' or Home Depot. Whatever paint Sho~Bud used was probably discontinued long ago, and the color has likely had a few name-changes over the decades. But, these stores have dozens of shades of light green "custom-colors", and you should be able to get very close to the present shade on your guitar.

Hello Mark. If you are talking about touching up a spot on the top finish of that guitar, I think you will have to be a super genius. Don't even think you can match the food coloring they used way back then. My LDG has a wee bit of fade by the changer, that somehow the sun got it, doing a outside gig. I never took it outside again, out of the case. Wish you all the luck. Mine is a green one.

Yes Donny and Ronnie have valuable points in the matching color....also ShoBud did draw from different color dyes as years went on...> Lloyd Green is the one that wanted it to be that Emerald Green color as it was the most beautiful deep green tint...and I even asked him how is his LDG so perfect in the original tint after all these years, and he said: "Ricky; any time i was NOT sitting at my steel; it was COVERED" and he just did not play a lot of outside gigs as he spent most his carrer in studio. It is very hard to keep the old dye from fading/turning...etc...with Nitro lacquer...> so it will be very hard to just touch up a spot.
Gibson; I don't do any body work; texturing; finish or refinish work on the Sho~buds I take in to refurbish/restore. If the client wants that type work; I will send it out to those that do that work. I; on the other hand; will try and restore/clean...etc in its original form. Show me a pic of the bottom of your ShoBud; and I can tell you what I do to make it look as good as possible.
Ricky

Ricky Davis wrote: Steven; do you have a pic of the underneath....don't know what the speckled texture is; shobud didn't use speckle on anything...ha.
Ricky

Pardon the delay Ricky. Been off line for awhile.
Here's a close up of the undercoating.

Yes Steven that is indeed the "Green Tint" added to the White Texture spray they used back then. What you are seeing as the "speckled" parts is the green tint certainly made the texture spotting look like green blobs...ha....hence speckle..ha...
Ricky

Green food coloring (emerald)? Or maybe that was only used for wood staining for ZB and Bud decks?? I'll put some effort into nailing it as best I can to some point in the rebuild project but if no success I'll just do something else. Restore to original is my first choice.

I've done finishes similar to that in the past. Basically a two step process: light green first then a darker green splatter coat.

The splatter coat is done with a low gun pressure so the paint doesn't completely atomize (more like spitting) and use a slightly thicker paint.

You might also be able to duplicate that finish by flicking paint from a stiff bristle brush.

If you are just touching up plugged screw holes, Michaels has small container enamel paint that you can mix to match.