The Steel Guitar Forum

To oil or not to oil...that is the question. I realize that oil attracts dust and becomes unsightly, but when two moving metallic parts contact each other, (pull rods and bellcranks), should they not be lightly oiled? Pros and cons please.

Ol' Fred

Fred.. I do, some don't.. I posted about this and you get split opinions.. I use automatic transmission fluid.. just a little... bob

Fred, get one of those little hand held oilers off of eBay. They come with a long, narrow, needle nose applicator. They are just 4.99. Just a well placed microdrop is all you will need. With your guitar in the setup stance, you can place a microdrop into the tight spaces of the changer fingers. The oil to use would be something like 3 in 1 lightwieght machine oil. Again, just a well placed micro drop. Then just tilt the guitar side to side, to allow the gravity to move the oil between the fingers. Might even operate the pedals and levers to work oil into all the fingers. Hope this helps.

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I'd rather be opinionated, than apathetic!

do

Just reading the TOPIC peaked me and my wife's attention. When she found out it pertained to my steel she wandered off to another room. I found an old oil can with a 9 inch flexible spout that you pump using your thumb. The opening nozzle is the size of a pinhead. I can get to any part of my guitar very easily and just barely press to get the one drop I need at strategic locations.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Rick Nicklas on 10 September 2005 at 07:31 AM.]</p></FONT>

I purchased lube oil from "Carter Guitars" and the container has a fantastic applicator, IMO of course.

WD Fort.....

JUST KIDDING!!

Three in One, Tranny fluid Hoppes Gun Oil are three good ones. I have always liked the smell of Hoppes #9. Morning or not..

Also with noting is that Mr Carlucci is so right. Often metal on metal or metal on nylon provides it's own best lubrication.

Oil mixed with any dust acts as an abrasive grinding compound.

If I had the time I'd try dry moly-lube on a couple of them that were totally dry and check their progress.

"Liquid Graphite" SUCKS. Don't EVEN think about it.



EJL

<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Eric West on 10 September 2005 at 02:15 PM.]</p></FONT>

If you are going to oil the changer, slacken the strings completely, to allow the oil to migrate totally around the axle.
R B

Definately oil my steel. I use a little vaseline where the pedal rods connect to the pedal,(ball joint). Seems to reduce the clackin noise better than oil. Got the idea from a forum member can't remember who, and Mike Mantey said it would be fine also.
BTW- The mullen website has an oiler for sale with a loong tip that would work great when oilin those hard to get to places.

Terry

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Mullen D10 /8x5 / session 500rd/ American Strat Highway 1 model
steelin for my Lord

The little drop oiler off eBay is perfect.

Oil your steel's moving~parts and then, don't ever wear white trousers again!

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“Big John” Bechtel
’04 SD–10 Black Derby w/3 & 5 & Pad
’65 Re-Issue Fender Twin–Reverb Custom™ 15” Eminence
web site

I found that you can buy a small plastic fly head cement bottle from a fly fishing shop and attach a piece of K&S tubing to it(available at most hobby shops)and have a Jim Dandy oiler. I had to take a small nail and open the tubing just a little to get the spout of the oiler in. Then I superglued it on. The oiler spout "plug" fits the end of the tubing. I too use automatic transmission fluid. I think my Mullen has Vasoline on the knobs of the pedals where they connect to the rods. It came that way from the factory. Hope this helps.
Michael

I just purchased a container of 3-in-1 oil that has about a 6 inch pull-out spout for reaching hard to get to places. It works good, even though I like the Tri-Flow teflon oil where ever I can use it. It lasts much longer. And their synthetic grease with teflon works great on pedals and rods. IMHO