The Steel Guitar Forum

Ok here's my first total install of John Coop's Parts on John Billings Single-10 Sho-bud.
My Gosh this is alot of stuff you wanted on there John B. ha....but; "CAN DO!!!"
These parts John Coop made ARE what Sho-bud Really wanted to make and Man do they look YUMMY.



You will notice a new idea design on the two Right knees;> the new adjustment for knee distance and easy access spring loaded screws on the bracket Arm.....and NO the screw does not stop into the Wood(that's a NO NO for those of you that Do stop your screws in the wood...ha) these; as well as all stops have a hard nylon tip on the end of the screw(Another genious Idea John Coop).
This Sho-bud is fully adjustable with the round cross-shaft curved knee lever early parts that are original to the design of this model Sho-bud.
John Coop makes superior parts to ALL model Sho-bud and no more wobbling knee levers and no more slack in the rollers on the pullers and no more.......>well I can go on and on....but I just wanted to show what a REAL Sho-bud upgrade looks like to its Original form> Enjoy.
(note: Sorry for the grainy pictures; my camera is old and goin' south on me> But all those parts are CHROMED and mirror finished)
Ricky<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 14 September 2005 at 11:34 PM.]</p></FONT>

WOW!!! RICKY AND JOHN You guys are the BEST!
Yes,that is gonna be a beauty,PLUS,QUALITY.
We all know LOOKS is only skin deep,BUT when you got QUALITY too!!MAN,bout more than a man can stand!!!

Now,ya'll got me full of questions!!!
1- Linkage!!I know there are different ways,just wondering are you gonna use the set screws,or Brass barrels?? tune with nylon tuners,or barrels??
I wouldn't ask,but I know how Rickys LDG is and you said,best sound a man can have!!!

Also,i love it,see the changer is the origional,and wondering how many raises,and lowers it will have???

Can't believe i worked all day yesterday,building the tops for my pullers,grinding out rivets,But THE PEWTER is gone!!!!!now.I'M wondering which way to come back with the linkage??

Man it is so great to have GUYS like you all to make all this stuff and service available for all SHO-BUD owners.
Keep up the great service GUYS!!!!!
farris

As John Coop might say:"Now it looks like it has a Mom and a Dad!!"

The knee lever stop backets will work well. They are like the ones on my Franklin and my Franklin will be 23 years old in December and still going strong.

The Franklin adjustable stops do not have a plastic/nylon cap on them but that has never been an issue.

I think you'll need some pull rods if you want it to do anything.

(oh my Gosh; b0b made a joke...ha...)
Yes pull rods are next...ha....and when it's done; ya'll can see the beauty of this one top to bottom.
Farris this has the original double raise/single lower fingers in it and they are in perfect shape; and so it will be nylon tuning of course. I too like the keep the Sho-bud playing the way it was orginally designed; which keeps it original sound.
Oh here's how it came to my house/shop>hence the before shot..ha.


Ricky<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 15 September 2005 at 10:48 AM.]</p></FONT>

I too don't like stops to hit wood, so my if you look at the stop on my ZB, you will notice a coin of the realm doing 'sterling' service


<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by richard burton on 15 September 2005 at 10:06 PM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by richard burton on 16 September 2005 at 06:02 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by richard burton on 16 September 2005 at 06:19 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by richard burton on 29 October 2005 at 03:47 AM.]</p></FONT>

<SMALL>...all stops have a hard nylon tip on the end of the screw...</SMALL>

I put nylon acorn nuts on the ends of all the knee lever stop screws on my Mullen after seeing them on a JCH several years ago...

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Hey Ricky,
I am doing the same thing to my single-10 professional. I am just looking at your RKR on there. Can you position your rod puller on there for the 1st string. I seem to have run out of room, including the stop collar, bracket, and then the rod puller to make it line up with the 1st hole. Does that make sense? I have not come up with a solution yet. I just wanted to set mine up so I can get any pull on any string on any lever or pedal.

Ricky and John,,,,It's fabulous! I can't wait to get it. I know I'll be spending a lot of time just lookin' at it! I'll carry pictures of it in my wallet, and bug everybody,just like a new, proud father.

Ricky, is that a vertical lever with 2 LKL levers? I was told a while ago (by some other builders) that a vertical or second LKL were each very difficult, and both together impossible on a Single Neck Sho-Bud. It certainly looks like John Coop's parts and your expertise make it possible.

Thanks for the pictures. Very enlightening.

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Mike Barone
Sho-Bud Pro-1 5&4 with RHL | Nashville 112
Assorted Guitars & Keyboards

Jon; if I'm understanding you...>your not able to get the puller to line up with the first finger??? A few things you can do; if your using these exact parts??? You didn't specify?
You can take the shaft collar off that end of the crossbar and turn the bracket around on that end of the crossbar; and you'll have enough room> and the crossbar won't move towards the knee lever; because if you link the lever to the crossbar linkage with no slack; it won't move. Then you'll have enough room over there for the puller> Plus you can move the roller to the outside(other side) of the puller and it will be in line with the first finger(try those first).
Michael; you are right; it is a very tight fit; but john Coop and I designed a spacer underneath that inside second LKL lever so that your able to put that lever below the ledge and it still come out same level as the LKL outside lever on the ledge. The vertical is no problem...and linkage pushes the crossbar behind the 1st pedal crossbar....and of course if everything is positioned just right> there's no problem.
Ricky

"Who do ya calL? Ghost Busters?" No, you call Ricky! I wouldn't have bought this guitar if Ricky hadn't agreed to work on it. Nuff said!

All I can say is it's too bad this isn't the part of the steel that gets displayed.
Beautiful.

When mine comes back from Coop I need to learn to play with it upside down.

ernie

I want one!!!

Larry

Nice work Ricky. Awesome job, between your master touch on Sho-Buds, and Coop's Master mind in all these new ideals,and his touch of magic in the machine shop. Looks like there are going to be a lot of happy Sho-Bud owners out there.

Nice work.Sweet

Forgive my ignorance. Who is John Coop?

John Coop is the person that made those great shobud parts, and the man that is making my Professional into a killer machine with all those wonderful parts on it.

ernie

I been thinking to redo some of my Pro II when I have the Sierra in residence.

Now it's clear.

Out with the potmetal..
I'm going all Coop'er

Great looking parts from superfingers to levers.

It's not a question of how much I have invested in the instrument,
but how well it plays, and how hot it sounds.

Ricky,
Great looking parts and installation... what does the copedent chart look like?

<font face="monospace" size="3"><pre>


Nickle E9th  P 1 P 2 P 3 LKL1 LKL2 LKV LKR RKL RKR
.013p F#   G/G#
.015p D# E D
.012p G# A
.014p E F# F Eb
.018p B C# C# Bb/A
.022p G# A F#
.026w F# G/G#
.030w E F Eb
.034w D C#
.038w B C# Bb/A
</pre></font>