Compressor effect pedal with steel
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Compressor effect pedal with steel
Thinking about using a compressor to increase sustain with my steel. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated. Types of compressor effect pedals that are high quality???
Isn't that what your volume pedal is for?
-𝕓𝕆𝕓- (admin) - Robert P. Lee - Recordings - Breathe - D6th - Video
Not in all cases - it depends on the sound you want plus the specific compressor and its settings.Isn't that what your volume pedal is for?
I use an Xotic SP, which can be set to have no "squash" on the attack and provide just mild sustain. While it might be possible to use a volume pedal that way there always seems to be a bit of a "swell" affect with volume pedal due to the physical motion.
I find the volume pedal to be clearly noticeable and I don't care for that sound. If the right compressor is set properly it's totally transparent. mine is attached under the steel - you'd never know if it's on or not.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
- Per Berner
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- Richard Sinkler
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Back in the 70's, I used an MXR Dynacomp for use as an actual effect. I wanted the squashing effect. I used it to get close (well at least what I thought was close) to that Tele popping thwang sound. I have never had a guitar (I have had 8 of them) that needed any help with sustain.
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, NV400, NV112 . Playing for 53 years and still counting.
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- Nathan Guilford
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- Nathan Guilford
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Thanks for the detailed explanations. I have another question for the Boss LMB-3 users. Since it was originally marketed as a "Bass" pedal, do you notice a drop in the the high end of the eq when engaged?
I've been using a compressors especially for long sustained passages (ambient-style beds) that mimic what a keyboard would do. It never really occurred to me until recently that it could be useful in a traditional steel passage when dialed back to more "normal" settings. My favorite is the Origin Effects Sliderig, but I'd never tested the Boss LMB-3. Hence my curiosity.
Thanks all in advance.
I've been using a compressors especially for long sustained passages (ambient-style beds) that mimic what a keyboard would do. It never really occurred to me until recently that it could be useful in a traditional steel passage when dialed back to more "normal" settings. My favorite is the Origin Effects Sliderig, but I'd never tested the Boss LMB-3. Hence my curiosity.
Thanks all in advance.
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- Posts: 4818
- Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
- Location: Rehoboth,MA 02769
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Devil's advocate -the "responsiveness" and "dynamic enhancement" is what makes the BOSS LMB-3 unique
And exactly what I *don't* like about it and why I quickly eliminated it from my signal chain.
It was "effect-y" sounding. I specifically *don't* want a compressor or limiter to add noticeable responsiveness, and (yikes!) no "enhancement" please! But no matter how subtle the control settings I found it to do either nothing or add a non-miuscial "enhancement" to the sound like most other pedals with "enhance" somewhere in the description or marketing materials.
I use the SP with a 50's Fender 400, which is not a steel known for its endless sustain It adds just enough "to taste" with a tonal transparency I don't find in any other stompbox-type compressor (especially not a sub-compact type I can mount under the guitar). The LMB-3 is comparatively quite "up front", something of no use to me.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
- Karlis Abolins
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Jim,
Just to clarify your usage of the compressor, do you use it instead of the VP? The reason I ask is that my right ankle is partly fused and I have never been able to properly use a VP.
I play without a VP and I find the initial string attack is too strong to balance against the normal sustain of the steel. Does your setup allow you to better balance the initial attack relative to the sustain? I assume it does but have to ask the question.
Karlis
Just to clarify your usage of the compressor, do you use it instead of the VP? The reason I ask is that my right ankle is partly fused and I have never been able to properly use a VP.
I play without a VP and I find the initial string attack is too strong to balance against the normal sustain of the steel. Does your setup allow you to better balance the initial attack relative to the sustain? I assume it does but have to ask the question.
Karlis
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Not really, as I don't feel the need to use a volume pedal with steel at all. While it seems to have become an almost "required" piece of equipment it's really a stylistic choice more than anything else.Just to clarify your usage of the compressor, do you use it instead of the VP?
I use pick attack control on the front end of notes and I don't use the "swell" type effect country players do - because I'm not one.
As I explain I use the compressor to add a bit of extra sustain to a type of guitar that's slightly lacking in it. The compressor is left on, but doesn't "squash" the front of notes with a strong mix of "dry" signal.
If it's difficult physically to play with a volume pedal - don't. There are no steel police that will cite you for not using one.
Most places.....
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
The Electro Harmonix POG2 has a "attack" control that can be used to fade in the note right after you pick it. The device is a polyphonic octave generator, but you can easily program a preset that just uses the natural sound with the attack suppression. It holds 8 presets. Most people use it as an organ effect or to emulate a bass or 12-string guitar, but you don't have to use its octave capability to cut the attack envelope.Karlis Abolins wrote:Jim,
Just to clarify your usage of the compressor, do you use it instead of the VP? The reason I ask is that my right ankle is partly fused and I have never been able to properly use a VP.
I play without a VP and I find the initial string attack is too strong to balance against the normal sustain of the steel. Does your setup allow you to better balance the initial attack relative to the sustain? I assume it does but have to ask the question.
Karlis
-𝕓𝕆𝕓- (admin) - Robert P. Lee - Recordings - Breathe - D6th - Video
Karlis- if you find the initial string attack is too strong I have a couple of questions:
Do you always pick in the same place, or do you vary your hand position?
What amplifier do you use, what speaker(s) and how loud do you run it? do you vary your tone control settings based on the room/environment or do you leave everything in one place?
Do you play with vibrato?
Is the problem the same at all volume levels and with/without a band?
Is there anything else in your signal chain?
Nearly every player I've worked with that had attack-based issues solved them by altering their attack and/or left hand technique - not through use of additional gear. If the instrument and amp have reasonable/normal amounts of sustain there should not be a huge imbalance between pick attack and sustained notes - just as with any other instrument.
Some gear-based problems that can appear to be attack-based are 1) using high-powered amp at very low volume, or 2) a low-sensitivity (or inefficient) speaker, 3) an amp that has never been set up or "tuned" properly (especially true of tube amps), and 4) other gear that affects the signal level.
If all of these potential issues have been examined and eliminated I'd look at hand position and attack strength before applying gear-based solutions. Using a single hand position and/or always picking at the same general power level can both be changed to overcome what may appear to be overbearing pick attack.
These are just some of the most-apparent things to take a look at. There are quite a few other variables. It can help to look outside the pedal steel world, as nearly all 6-string techniques regarding pick attack are applicable to pedal steel.
Do you always pick in the same place, or do you vary your hand position?
What amplifier do you use, what speaker(s) and how loud do you run it? do you vary your tone control settings based on the room/environment or do you leave everything in one place?
Do you play with vibrato?
Is the problem the same at all volume levels and with/without a band?
Is there anything else in your signal chain?
Nearly every player I've worked with that had attack-based issues solved them by altering their attack and/or left hand technique - not through use of additional gear. If the instrument and amp have reasonable/normal amounts of sustain there should not be a huge imbalance between pick attack and sustained notes - just as with any other instrument.
Some gear-based problems that can appear to be attack-based are 1) using high-powered amp at very low volume, or 2) a low-sensitivity (or inefficient) speaker, 3) an amp that has never been set up or "tuned" properly (especially true of tube amps), and 4) other gear that affects the signal level.
If all of these potential issues have been examined and eliminated I'd look at hand position and attack strength before applying gear-based solutions. Using a single hand position and/or always picking at the same general power level can both be changed to overcome what may appear to be overbearing pick attack.
These are just some of the most-apparent things to take a look at. There are quite a few other variables. It can help to look outside the pedal steel world, as nearly all 6-string techniques regarding pick attack are applicable to pedal steel.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional