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Adding felt to underside of a lap steel

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 1:05 pm
by David Weisenthal
I'm sure this has been discussed but I couldn't locate an old post on the subject. My old Gretch Electromatic really stays put since its felt is in good shape. On the other hand, my Rukavina is pretty slippery with its plain wood bottom (but very pretty)...what have other forumites done? The seperate rubber pad idea is a pain for me. Maybe some low VOC silicone caulk and felt? :?

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 1:50 pm
by Ed Baker
I've used a simple computer mouse pad (yes, they're still available).
Just lay the pad on your thigh and go.

rough the bottom

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 2:21 pm
by George Piburn
If you want to maintain the integrity of the wood - finish,
you can get some of the rubber matting for drawer lining , at any dollar general or walmart- home center.

Simply lay it across the lap or table surface , and it will stick and release easily.

If you want to get more aggressive , home centers sell some super stick on abrasive material for steps.

There is a material called Flocking Fibers - Rockler online - made for jewelry boxes

It utilizes a glue and little applicator looks sorta like a glorified paper towel tube.

This is fuzzy stuff that is on the bottom of most all of the old Magnatones and similar instruments.

Hope this helps folks.

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 2:32 pm
by Bill Groner
I got some silicone bowl covers at Big Lots. I think there were 2 in the package for around $5. You don't have to glue them on, they cling. It doesn't hurt the finish and it sure as heck doesn't move off your lap.

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 3:12 pm
by David Weisenthal
Ok good tips guys. Do any new makers still use felt? Just curious. It seems to work better than anything else.

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 6:41 pm
by Robert Allen
I bought a roll of peel and stick felt but the problem was that the shape changed when the backing was peeled off. So, I did a bunch with flocking. The outline had to be taped off with vinyl tape to go around the curves. Auto pin striping tape works well. Then paint the flocking area with acrylic paint and then spray the flocking fibers onto the wet paint. After it dries, brush the loose fibers off. Next I bought some 3 inch diameter peel and stick felt circles. Those were easy to apply and worked well. Morrell used to put felt on their lap steels, maybe they still do. I wouldn't mind putting felt on when requested on if I had a way to accurately apply it but so far I don't. www.melbert.guitars

Posted: 17 Jul 2017 8:23 pm
by David Weisenthal
Good info Robert. Yes the flocking seems to be the way to go. I always thought they were backed with felt but I guess not. I will try some from a mail order place and upload photos. (Unless It looks really crappy and I am too embarrassed)

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 12:17 am
by Stefan Robertson
Been there done that with felt.

HOWEVER

Either get a footrest to raise the height or some legs for your Lap Steel Guitar http://www.deluxe34.com

Your spine and neck will thank you. Otherwise be prepared for spinal injury or neck strain or both over the years. :whoa:

One last Factor

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 5:42 am
by George Piburn
Just a Artistic Concern,

Ryan makes such awesome wood work and finishes - personally I would use either a stand or the liner material for a dollar from dollar general.

Reason , It would be a Ruination to apply any material -- even on the back to one of his art works.

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 6:30 am
by David Weisenthal
George I see your point. Thats the reason I still haven't applied anything for the last 2 years. It seems wrong to molest it in any way. It is extremely nice construction throughout. I will try some liner materials first. The issue with stands and pads for me is that this little fun instrument starts to become as cumbersome as a pedal steel that sits in the same room forever. It becomes less fun to play. Stefan, I have noticed my neck and shoulders are stiffer since playing the lap an hour+ a day for the last few weeks.

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 6:39 am
by Larry Carlson
I use a table for my lap steel when I play at home and I've covered it with the shelf/door liner that George mentioned.
It works great. Guitar is stuck in place.
If I go out with a guitar I bring along a one foot square piece and lay it in my lap.
Doesn't move or mark up the guitar.

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silicone instead of felt

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 11:23 am
by Bill Groner
Here are two pictures of what the bowl cover silicone looks like. There is NO glueing it down, it just stays put and the lap steel does not move on your lap. I have a battery door on the backside and needed a material that I could easily remove and re-apply to change the 9 volt battery. Actually I don't remove it, I just peel it up past the door and press it back down..............EASY/PEASY!
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Posted: 18 Jul 2017 12:12 pm
by David Weisenthal
That bowl cover silicone does look pretty good..didnt know there was such a thing. I'm out if touch with modern cookery.

Posted: 18 Jul 2017 12:23 pm
by Bill Groner
David Weisenthal wrote:That bowl cover silicone does look pretty good..didnt know there was such a thing. I'm out if touch with modern cookery.
I didn't know they were out there either, but I am always on the lookout for stuff I can use for purposes not intended. I have one guitar with rubber jar lid openers on it. Those I took 4 small dabs of silicone to affix it. I think they were from Good Cooks. You get one round red one, and one square yellow one, but with the silicone there is NO glue. I found them at Big Lots. Don't know if you have them in AZ?
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Posted: 20 Jul 2017 4:56 am
by Ron Wendler
I bought some non slip stair tread with stick on back. My underside is wood and putting this on really makes it stay put.

Posted: 20 Jul 2017 5:54 am
by Jeff Mead
I got some sticky backed baize from Evil Bay for my Orphan Stringmaster neck (I had to cover up two leg socket holes). I just trimmed it after it was stuck down. Maybe not the neatest job i the world but nobody really sees it anyway.
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Posted: 20 Jul 2017 6:39 am
by Robert Mac Neilage
Got to agree with Jeff, green baize from evil bay, cut to shape first then wet on one side with P.V.A. glue and place it onto the bottom of the guitar, smoothed out and let dry.

This is a seven string I made last year and it shows the end product, baize and P.V.A are both cheap to buy and very practical to use.
Best results and easy to do.
Cheers
Robert
P.S.
Keep the glue off the table for marital harmony!
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Posted: 20 Jul 2017 7:45 am
by Jeff Mead
Actually, I used self adhesive - even easier.

Posted: 20 Jul 2017 12:53 pm
by David Weisenthal
The green felt (I mean baize )looks good guys. I still haven't done anything for my rukavina, which doesn't make any sense since I'm the one who started this whole thread. :)

Posted: 20 Jul 2017 1:45 pm
by Jack Hanson
David Weisenthal wrote:I still haven't done anything for my rukavina
I will second George's advice and recommend using a stand. Get a Deluxe34 -- you'll be glad you did. Mark's "Universal" model is flexible enough to support nearly whatever instrument you decide to lay atop it.

Posted: 22 Jul 2017 6:42 pm
by James Phillips
Use a yoga mat ; trimmed to your preference. It's not permanent, and easy to roll up.

Posted: 22 Jul 2017 9:26 pm
by G Strout
Over the last 12 or so years I have done restoration work on at least 40 - 45 vintage lap steels. In order to keep them "period correct" I have found that this product works fine on many of the oldies. Not an issue in your case (Rukavina) but if anyone is looking for this stuff. Here it is:

http://www.constantines.com/search.aspx?find=flocking

This is a great company to deal with... had one problem over the years and it was straightened out immediately.
Have a look through their catalog (I am not connected to them in any way)
If anyone is looking for a supplier for MOTS (Pearloid) send me a PM. I have great supplier for that too.
gary