The Steel Guitar Forum

Are George L Cables easy to put together? I bought a pre-made 20 footer and a 10 footer. I'm gonna take the 10 footer and make two 5 footers. I bought some right angles to use. Thanks for your help.

Thomas, not to difficult. If you make sure you have a clean straight cut at the cable end you're putting the connector on you should be fine.

Thanks Jeff Triplett

Thomas, If your going to use George L go ahead and buy the Cable Kit with cutter and screwdriver to keep in your seat!

I've used George L's since they came out in the 80's. However, be careful with the right angles as they can be tricky to properly assemble. I don't use the right angle connectors (and I'm an ex amp tech).

Jeff, Lyle, and Jack. Thanks for the tips. Appreciate your advice.

Thomas.
Here are the instructions.

Let me know if I can help with any further needs for George L's Products.

Bill

Bill Ferguson... thank you

I've been using them so long I don't remember when I started - including on stage playing 6 string.

I find the right angle connectors to be more secure than any other brand. Once they are done - and I've never had a problem getting them together correctly - and one o the plastic caps installed I've never had to mess with one again. Some of mine have decades of use and have been tossed into gig bags, cars, backs of amps, tripped over - even run over.

With the exception of a few cables I was given I don't use anything else. No reason to.

Jim Sliff... that is very good to know. Thanks for the review!

AND there is a reason that George L's are called the "Clear Cable"

Howdy. Does GL make a
Short cable that is split? A single male end to a double female end? I tried to upload a picture but it didn't work.

Hey George,

No, George L's does not make anything like that.
They do not make Female Ends.

When I need something like that, I still use George L's cable, but I use Switchcraft Ends and solder them in place.

Thanks

I've been using George L's for awhile now mainly
because they're easy to repair at a gig.

The problem with the angle connector is the edges of the cap screw will cut into the wire if you happen to pull on it while it's connected.

Of course the solution is "dont pull" on the wire but if your working steady and need to break down fast sooner or later it's bound to happen.

If the screw part of the cap was solid it wouldn't have any sharp edges to cut into the wire at the bend while tightening the cap. Maybe that would solve the problem with the angle connectors.

Bob,

You mentioned that you use them because they are easy to repair. Yes they are, but they also deliver the best sound quality available in a cable.
But why do you have to repair them so often?

In 30 years, I have never had that happen with a right angle plug.

Plus if the cap edges were smooth, you could not get a grip on them to tighten them.

Here is the solution:


I stock them in Black and Red.

Let me know if I can be of service.

Erv Niehaus makes a very good cable. Just tell him the length and the ends, and a flash there in your stuff.

Erv's, from what I've seen posted, are not George L's which is the subject of this thread.

Bob: The cap needs to have a sharp edge in order to cut through the cable sleeve and make a ground connection.

You are encountering problems by doing something that you know you shouldn't do. You should not disconnect ANY cable by pulling on the cable. AC power, guitar/speaker cables.....it doesn't matter. If you do, it will eventually catch up with you.
Me: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this."
Doctor: "Well..........."

Bill: I don't believe that the rubber caps will solve the problem that Bob is talking about.
The caps will make it easier to grab the connector, though.

Thank you Jack

Sorry, I just mentioned, that Erv, had some good cable, I thought it was about cables, I guess I misunderstood. Sorry.

Bob: The cap needs to have a sharp edge in order to cut through the cable sleeve and make a ground connection.

That is absolutely wrong!

The edge of the cap has nothing at all to do with the connection other than as a grip for your fingers to twist with and a place to secure the plastic cap.

It's the small-diameter bottom rim of the top piece that cuts the cable to create a solid ground. It's next to impossible to dull that bottom rim so it's not something to be concerned about.

Turning it far enough to cut through the outer insulation is important though - and it simply can't be *too* tight! Crank it down as far as you can with your fingers, not with a wrench. Some even add a drop of thread lock on each side of the cable opening, which ensures an absolutely permanent connection unless you *want* to take it apart,.

Been using George L cables since around 1994. I use the .155 dia. cables. Did some sound and tone research on them back then and the .155 dia. cables to me had the best tone quality. I was using George L E-66 pup,s in both necks with George L stainless strings. On my Sho Bud Pro III it was the best tone by far.

I've used GeorgeL cables since 1988 continuously, and have never felt any need to change brands.

Parenthetically, George Lewis was a great man, a partner in Sho~Bud as well as GHS strings, a Masonic brother, and a veteran of Pearl Harbor. George had great stories to tell.

One of the reasons I decided to become a George L's dealer, way back when, was George & Mona Lewis.

There assured me that I would be handling the finest instrument cable on the planet and that I could stand behind every single cable and end.

Over the past 30 years, I have honestly only had 1 unhappy customer. And come to find out, that customer was not happy with ANYTHING.

So if you want the Clearest Sound possible from cables, you owe it to yourself to give George L's a try, whether you buy from me or not. (but I hope you do).

My policy is that I ship to you BEFORE you pay and if you are not happy, you just have to send it back to me and I will even pay the return postage.