The Steel Guitar Forum

I don't know if my terminology is halfway adequate here, but the short sketch is:

I had previously gotten used to stringing up on a guitar that had the split V slot that you slip the ball end into; you just keep the tension on it with your hand, and it stays put.

I'm now playing a guitar that has the pin on the changer finger that the ball slips onto, and while I'm getting it strung, it usually involves the stringing popping off the pin a few times while it is still slack; threading it onto the tuner usually involves a bit of swearing and a few re-mountings on the pin.

Not life and death, but kind of frustrating. So, any tips for dealing with this would be much appreciated.

This works on my Emmons LGII...

Use a Clothespin, of the two piece type that clamp with a spring. Take the clothespin apart and use one side as a wedge (lightly) to hold the ring on the pin whilst you do the stringwinding thing on the keyhead end.

This assumes you have a changer where the pin is below deck level.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Ray Minich on 06 January 2005 at 07:39 AM.]</p></FONT>

I put the string on the pin and hold tension on it with my right hand while threading the tunner end,clipping it off, and winding it up with my left hand. When I wind it up enough to hold it in place I make sure the string is fully seated on the pin usually by nudging it with my dykes,then tune her up.

Best method: Buy a '90s Zum that still has the V slot to hold the ball. In addition to that convenience, you will have one of the best pedal steel guitars ever made.

Next best method: Get a little piece of foam or rubber that you can wedge gently between the pin and the back of the neck. That will hold the ball on the pin while you fiddle with the key end of the string and start winding. The Carter site has some good information on what to do at the key end.

Worst method (if you loose the little foam block): After you get enough winds on the key end to hold, put the ball on the pin. With your left hand toward the middle of the string hold it up to keep enough pressure to keep the ball from popping off. Reach around with your right hand and wind the string until it gets flat and seats in the nut roller groove. You can switch those hands if you are ambidextrous or a lefty.

Locate the ball-end, then push a piece of foam-rubber in there to hold it in place while you attend to the other end of the string....same sort of idea as the clothes-pin, but both hands are free to cut the string to length and thread at the machine-head.

I do find that the E9th 6th string (.022") can be pretty unruly at the ball-end - I usually give this one a slight bend to help it stay put on the pin.

I did used to enjoy changing strings on my old 'Pro 111' with that swallow-tail thing - much easier than my Emmons!

RR

RR<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Roger Rettig on 06 January 2005 at 08:16 AM.]</p></FONT>

We must have been typing simultaneously, David!

Why do so many builders use the pin type instead of the slot for the string mount?

The reports people have of the pin breaking off, and (what seems to be) folks having a "cursing under the breath" experience stringing the things...

What's the upside of using the pin mount instead of the V-shaped slot??

<SMALL>What's the upside of using the pin mount instead of the V-shaped slot??</SMALL>

It's cheaper and easier to just drill and insert a pin than it is to machine that V-shaped slot.

When I'm home I use an eraser (artist's type, not the end of a pencil), or when I'm out I use the rubber covered end of my wire clippers (Saw Jernigan do this)

I used to fold up the paper string envelope, and wedge it in the changer to hold the ball on the pin.

It worked, but recently I've gotten good at threading it on the tuner, two wraps to hold it, then put the ball on the pin. I cut it to length first.

I never had a pin break, but the thought of it scares me. <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Joey Ace on 06 January 2005 at 10:57 AM.]</p></FONT>

There was a guy from Illinois at St Louis one year selling a small rubber type wedge, just for that purpose. I bought a couple of them and still use it. Great for changing strings.

Someone mentioned a piano mute would probably do the same thing.

I don't remember the Guy's name or their "company" name, just that they were from Illinois. They had a couple of other items, this was just one that I remember and bought.

Place the ball end on the pin
and pull the string over by hand to the
correct tuner, while holding tension
at the tuning key go to the center of the fretboard and raise the sting up about
8" or 10". This gives you the correct
length of the string. Cut the string
at the tuning key and let it all relax.
Then start the string in the tuning key
and give it a few turns, then take the
ball end and place it in the pin. Again,
from the center of the fretboard, pull
the string up to hold tension on the tuning
key and pin, crank it up a string winder.
Watch the roller to make sure the string
is ok. You're done.

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Rick Johnson
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Rick Johnson on 06 January 2005 at 12:19 PM.]</p></FONT>

I used to use all kinds of wedges, thumbpicks, etc. but I've found the the best was is to:

1. make a 90 degree bend at the correct length,
2. cut the excess with wire cutters, leaving about 3/8ths in. to go through the key. I will bend and pre-cut some .011 strings just to save time later.
3. wind about 1 turn on the key, so it will stay there.
4. at the ball end, bend a slight curve in the area above the ball where the string is twisted.
5. slide the ball onto the pin, with the curve following the radius of the changer.
6. hold it lightly, elevated above the neck while winding the key.

The curve at the ball end will tend to keep the string on the pin as it is tuned. A straight end wants to "pop off" of the pin unless it is held in place.

I don't want to break a pin, so instead of pulling up on the string to remove the slack, I will hold the string between my thumb and first two fingers, then kind of twist it, not pulling up on it at all. I'll do this several times along the length of the string. Tune it up, some more twists, and usually it will stay at pitch. I always check that the ball ends are tight against the changer.

Try bending the curve, it makes it much easier.

Bill

I use the foam method on my ZB but cut it nice and snug and leave in so if a string breaks the ball end can`t drop into the changer,when I first got the guitar I stripped it down and found at least half a dozen of the things fouling the mechanism,and the foam does`nt affect the performance of the instrument, in fact it stops dust etc.getting in,

I do this quite often and don't have much trouble. I simply take the straight string and put a small bend (not 90 degrees, just a small bend) about 1 inch from the brass ring on the string. Then hook it on the small post and keep the tension tight while winding it on the tuner. Now I don't know how well this works winding it by hand. I always use an electric drill.

As far as the slot is concerned, I think it is much better. We have that feature on the Royal Precision.

I do this quite often and don't have much trouble. I simply take the straight string and put a small bend (not 90 degrees, just a small bend) about 1 inch from the brass ring on the string. Then hook it on the small post and keep the tension tight while winding it on the tuner. Now I don't know how well this works winding it by hand. I always use an electric drill.

As far as the slot is concerned, I think it is much better. We have that feature on the Royal Precision.

I just discovered my wifes wedge shaped cosmetic sponges that should work to hold the string on the pin. She says they're cheap, and yes, they're hers, not mine!

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Howard, 'Les Paul Recording, Zum S12U, Vegas 400, Boss ME-5, Boss DM-3
http://www.Charmedmusic.com