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Topic: Big Question |
Tim Tweedale
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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Posted 28 Nov 2004 2:57 pm
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I have played pedal steel for a little over a year now and I've been very happy with my 74 MSA SD-10. I am thinking about getting another pedal steel. I'd like to get a D-10, and I'd like to spend $2000 or less, so that probably puts me out of the running for Emmons steels. But I've seen used Carters, Zums, Sierras, MSAs and Sho-buds for that price here in the forum's buy & sell.
I'm just looking to find the basic benefits and drawbacks of the most common pedal steels, on the basis of their construction, mechanics, tonal characteristics, playability, servicability and whatever else you can think of. This would be an immense help to me.
Living in a part of North America where this instrument is very rare, I haven't seen or heard (let alone played) many different kinds, and any information you can give me will be a big help. Also, any links to prior threads pertaining to this question would be helpful.
Thank you all!
-Tim |
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Dave Grafe
From: Hudson River Valley NY
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Posted 28 Nov 2004 8:13 pm
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My ShoBud's so purty and sings so sweet when I treat her nice I couldn't never look at anything else for too long. Still, the idea of a killer modern mechanism and that aluminum neck sound does cause my eye to wander now and again. Then I remember the roof needs fixin' and I'm over it quick.
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Dave Grafe - email: dg@pdxaudio.com
Production
Pickin', etc.
1978 ShoBud Pro I E9, 1960 Les Paul (SG) Deluxe, 1963 Precision Bass, 1954 Gibson LGO, 1897 Washburn Hawaiian Steel Conversion
[This message was edited by Dave Grafe on 28 November 2004 at 08:15 PM.] |
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Jim Cohen
From: Philadelphia, PA
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Posted 28 Nov 2004 8:19 pm
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Quote: |
I'm just looking to find the basic benefits and drawbacks of the most common pedal steels, on the basis of their construction, mechanics, tonal characteristics, playability, servicability and whatever else you can think of. This would be an immense help to me. |
"Just"? Is that all? Tim, you have asked such a large question that it would be daunting to try to answer it in one thread. All of this has been discussed many times in the Forum so, really, the best thing is to do a thorough search of the brands you're interested in on the Forum and you'll get more information on these subjects than you can possibly digest. It's already in print awaiting your readership. |
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Tim Tweedale
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 12:15 am
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Jim. I agree with you that it is a large and daunting question, and realize that there is a lot of detailed information about every kind of steel available. However I'm looking for a relatively basic and comparative description of the major brands of pedal steel from those who have had the advantage of playing a lot of them.
For example, if this question were asked about different kinds of weissenborn-style guitars (something I know a bit about, having played a bunch of different kinds), I would talk about brand A being extremely well constructed, punchy bass and nice loud highs, but having weird string spacing and bad tuners, brand B being poorly constructed but fantastic sounding, brand C being known for it's long sustain, but weak low and low-midrange volume, et cetera.
An example of the type of info I'm after is in the thread about MSA tone being muddy; things that a particular brand of guitar is known for rather than every single detail about a given kind of guitar. Although I wouldn't mind that either.
-Tim |
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David L. Donald
From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 2:03 am
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My suggestion is to
Go into instruments for sale, look for something that has sold in your price range,
And then do a search in Pedal Steel for info on that steel.
DD |
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Jim Cohen
From: Philadelphia, PA
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 4:38 am
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Tim, I do realize the kind of information you're seeking. But the answers are never as concise as you might wish and on every point you will get diverse and conflicting statements, the grand sum of which will already have been posted elsewhere. Magnify that N times for the number of brands and the number of questions you are asking, and you'll practically have the whole forum in your thread!
Having said that, far be it from me to dissuade anyone from jumping in here to try to answer your questions, so... have at it guys.
Best wishes,
Jim |
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mtulbert
From: Plano, Texas 75023
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 5:06 am
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Well, being fairly new to the steel world myself (around 4 years now), I was becoming a perennial steel junkey! Every year, a new steel showed up in my house while the old one departed. I have had a Sierra,Mullen,Franklin, ZumSteel, and while I have not owned one, I have made numerous visits to Carter Steel Guitars.. I can tell you that mechanically, they have excellent playability and sound. There are differences to be sure, but I would not refuse any of them in my studio that's for sure. If you can hold off, try to make it to Dallas or Tucson for the next steel show and there you can test drive all of them.
Regards,
Mark T. |
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David Doggett
From: Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 6:18 am
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Someone in a remote location like yours would do well to buy a used steel guitar that is of recent manufacture and still being made by a major manufacturer that looks like they will be in business for awhile. Carter, Zum, Fessenden, Mullen and Emmons come to mind. Sierras are now out of production, and may or may not ever return with a new owner. The old MSAs were out of production for years, and the new Millenium is completely different from the old ones now out of production. Sho-Buds haven't been produced for years, although there are people who repair and refurbish them.
The point is that you may need to adjust a used steel to your body size and preferred copedent. That will require detailed advice and parts, which are easily obtained for current production models. If you lived near Nashville or in Texas or St. Louis, you could find parts, advice, and repair facilities for almost any steel guitar. But in your situation you should be very conservative and look for a popular brand that is still in production. |
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Roger Rettig
From: Naples, FL
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 7:04 am
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I'm pretty sure that, sooner or later, you'll see a mid-'80s LeGrande on sale around the $2000-mark.
I don't think you could make a better choice.
RR |
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Andy Schick
From: Kingston, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 7:42 am
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Tim
Give Al Brisco a call at Steel Guitars of Canada. I am sure He would have something readily available.
Andy
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Phone: (905) 355-3056 (Talk Line)
Fax: (905) 355-2811
Toll Free: 1-877-673-6394 (Order Line Only)
E-Mail: steelcan@steelguitarcanada.com
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Chris Lucker
From: Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 8:41 am
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Several months ago, or maybe a year ago, there was a guy on Savery Island, or in Mansons Landing or Pendor Harbour or somewhere in the Can SJs who had a Super Pro for sale. I think he was asking $2,200 at the time and I don't think it sold after two Ebay tries.
Any recollection anyone? |
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Larry Phleger
From: DuBois, PA
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 8:46 am
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Go to a steel show and try them all out. There art a lot of good steels out there in your price range. IMHO, you can’t do better than a Carter. They stay in tune, are light and easy to transport, have a great sound, and the folks at Carter are GREAT. They give top notch service to every Carter owner, even those of us who have pre-owned Carters. |
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Ray Montee
From: Portland, Oregon (deceased)
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Posted 29 Nov 2004 9:33 am
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I can't speak for others but.....sight unseen and having only the sounds of Emmons on record in my ears.......I purchased a 1972 Dbl-10 from the factory. Still have it and while others have busily gone thro' a dozen or more guitars, this oldie does a great job of staying in tune; legs are still solid; looks great; doesn't break strings; in 34 years, the only broken part I've had was the RKL; SOUNDS Great and far better than many I've heard in spite of their wide variety of expensive electronic gimmicks and gadgets. Same goes for my BIGSBY. A lot of what you're aluding to, IMHO, is in the hands of the player. You should learn to be-come a part of that guitar you presently have and only then, choose to abandon it for
another. New ones are shiney and pretty but will they play any easier or sound any better than the one you currently have? Just don't get caught up in the "gotta have a new one of those", syndrome. If it has limitations that are holding back your natural musical growth, then consider making a change. |
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