DiY Buffer

Dave Hepworth · Post by **Dave Hepworth** » 12 May 2016 1:38 am

Hi folks ,
I have just built this buffer unit from scratch ,not a kit. It works absolutely great too.Anyone else done this sort of thing?
Regards Dave

Robert Parent · Post by **Robert Parent** » 12 May 2016 3:28 am

Yes, I have used similar DIY buffers for decades.

Robert

Dustin Kleingartner · Post by **Dustin Kleingartner** » 12 May 2016 6:11 am

I have been thinking about trying to make something like this lately. Glad to hear it works well.

Craig Baker · Post by **Craig Baker** » 12 May 2016 6:42 am

Dave,
Congratulations, you have discovered the secret of success.

While everyone knows that black steel guitars sound better, for a buffer to work well, it must be in a blue case.

All the best,
Craig

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 12 May 2016 7:20 am

Good job. If it works, it'll probably last forever. But just being picky (because we can), and for any others who may be thinking about doing something similar......

1) I'd add a reverse biased diode from V+ to ground to protect the circuit.
2) I'd add a filter cap from V+ to ground. It doesn't need to be huge. Anywhere from 1uF to 10uF is plenty.
3) I'd use a socket for the op amp.
4) There are project boards that are a little bigger than yours that have rows of common connections on them. It makes putting things together a little easier, especially if you end up using a few more parts than yours has.
5) If you get a large pop or thump when you plug/unplug it, you might try adding a large value resistor from the "-" side of the output cap to ground. Try 1Meg for starters.

There are several companies out there that make kits. Build Your Own Clone and General Guitar Gadgets are two that come to mind. BYOC in particular are very good IMO.

These web sites as well as many others also show you the schematics. If you find a design you like, but for some reason don't want to buy the kit, you can get the parts and "roll your own".

Dave Hepworth · Post by **Dave Hepworth** » 12 May 2016 9:41 am

Hi Craig and ajm,
Thankyou both for the positive comments.I might consider the antipop resistor across output cap.
The idiot diode I think I will leave as the battery slot is polarised and only goes in one way and the battery tray is clearly labelled too.
I will review the filter cap as I go along at gigs.
Blue has always been my favourite colour Craig and if make any project it is always sprayed blue ,maybe something in it !
Regards Dave

Steven Paris · Post by **Steven Paris** » 12 May 2016 9:55 am

I would totally agree with ajm's suggestions; I would only add that, if doing it yourself, there HAS to be a better choice for an opamp than a 741 or a TL071. An OPA 134 would be a pretty good choice.

John Sluszny · Post by **John Sluszny** » 12 May 2016 10:01 am

Excuse me but as I am not very electronically oriented,what is it for ? Thanks !

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 12 May 2016 2:13 pm

Cables <strike>can</strike> will bleed highs of a high impedance signal off to ground. Passive volume pedals can do this too (this effect is called "tone suck").
Pickups are high impedance devices.
The buffer converts the impedance to a low Z signal.
The end result is often called "cleaner."
Not all buffers are equal, some sound better than others.
Some people don't like the buffered sound as much.
Remember that Hendrix actually PREFERRED the sound of a 20 foot cable.
They're a net good, usually.

John Sluszny · Post by **John Sluszny** » 12 May 2016 2:57 pm

Thank you Lane ! If only we could hear a "with and without"test of it !

John Groover McDuffie · Post by **John Groover McDuffie** » 12 May 2016 3:59 pm

Not to mention the fact that the cables of that era had way worse capacitance than modern cables, and therefore the 20ft cables Hendrix used would have degraded the signal a lot more than modern cables would have.

But playing a Strat through a cranked Marshall the high-end roll-off was probably a benefit.

Frank James Pracher · Post by **Frank James Pracher** » 13 May 2016 7:43 pm

I've never made a stand alone buffer, but I build my own effects all the time. Delay, Reverb, Tremolo, etc.

I started tinkering with electronics at the same time I began playing music, so the two have always gone hand in hand.

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 14 May 2016 2:53 am

John Sluszny wrote:Thank you Lane ! If only we could hear a "with and without"test of it !

I did a couple. Here's one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RyRhG2E0y-M
And the other: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7JUlP7tZD7g

Nathan Guilford · Post by **Nathan Guilford** » 14 May 2016 3:42 am

I built one using the same schematic that you have and it's a great buffer. I used the TL071 chip as well. It's just fine. I don't notice noise and I added a switch to disengage the battery so it can stay hooked up in my rehearsal space without the battery going dead. I don't know why, but it seems to have a bit of a boost into my amp which I like.

I also have a Lil Izzy buffer. A fantastic buffer that accomplishes a crispy high end that my diy buffer doesn't get.

I use both almost interchangeably and really only notice the differences when I switch between them. However without a buffer plugged directly into my guitar, I really really notice a drop off of high end tone, and I don't like to play without one.

My two cents. Maybe that's just my guitar and rig, but I'd say I'm extremely happy with either.

Dave Hepworth · Post by **Dave Hepworth** » 14 May 2016 6:51 am

Hi Nathan,
Nice to hear from someone who has done the same.I think the extra top end crispness can be achieved by altering the value of the output cap to a smaller value .......perhaps someone more knowledgeable about the buffer circuit could chip in here .......pun intended !! Lol.
Regards Dave

John Sluszny · Post by **John Sluszny** » 14 May 2016 10:39 pm

Thank you Lane !

John Gould · Post by **John Gould** » 15 May 2016 4:42 pm

I've been building buffers for a while now. I can tell you not all buffers are created equal. The op-amp buffer you built is one of the easiest to build and should give okay results . JFET buffers sound a little different and then you can build a transistor buffer as well . the notion that you are not asking for gain from any of the devices leads people to think that the results will be the same. Each one of those devices has its on character , I know my ears like a tiny bit of harmonic distortion , seems to sound more real and less sterile . Anyway have fun , I have fun tinkering with mods and building little audio projects to improve my signal path.

Dave Hepworth · Post by **Dave Hepworth** » 16 May 2016 1:30 am

Hi
Thankyou for the schematic Georg ,some values would be nice if you have any,I can see the feedback loop there and see how it will enhance the upper tones.
To John,have you any schematics with values.These things are so cheap to build .......the project box is the most expensive item.
I am quite smitten now with these devices and am ready to have a go at another.
Regards Dave

Nathan Guilford · Post by **Nathan Guilford** » 16 May 2016 8:19 pm

John - I'm curious. Which type of buffer do you feel provides the harmonic distortion that is pleasing?[/quote]

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 17 May 2016 6:59 am

Here is an example of the project board that I was talking about. It makes things much easier to wire up. If you don't need the whole board you can cut it to size.

Even though Radio Shack is no longer in business (even though there is one open near me), you can find similar items out there.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/mul ... 5717554117

Scott Duckworth · Post by **Scott Duckworth** » 17 May 2016 7:38 am

Here's an original drawing of the buffer mention in the start of the thread...

Craig Baker · Post by **Craig Baker** » 18 May 2016 12:27 pm

Dave,
As Georg mentioned, electrolytic capacitors may not be the best choice for audio circuits. For your output, 10 mfd is really overkill. As long as you're driving a high impedance load, you could probably get by using a 2.2 mfd and retain full frequency response. One thing you might want to try in order to gain an apparently "cleaner" sound would be to use tantalum capacitors. They are a bit more expensive, but some "experts" claim they can hear a difference when using tantalum caps.

Best wishes as you chase the perfect tone. . . we're all doing that. Let us know what you discover.

Respectfully,
Craig Baker 706-485-8792

cmbakerelectronics@gmail.com

C.M. Baker Electronics
P.O. Box 3965
Eatonton, GA 31024

Steven Paris · Post by **Steven Paris** » 18 May 2016 12:59 pm

Then again, some experts HATE tantalum capacitors. This is a quote from DIY audio guru Rod Elliott:
"Then of course we have tantalum electrolytics. While many sing their praises, I do not recommend their use for anything, other than tossing in the (rubbish) bin. There might be the odd occasion where you really need the properties of tantalum based caps, but such needs should be few and far between. They are unreliable, and have a nasty habit of failing short-circuit. They cannot tolerate high impulse currents and/or rapid charge/ discharge cycles, and especially don't like being shorted. Tantalum caps announce their failure by becoming short-circuited, and it can be extremely difficult to track down a (possibly intermittent) short across a supply bus that powers many ICs. I never use tantalum caps, and don't recommend them in any of the published projects. Personally, I suggest that you don't use them either."
This is from: http://sound.westhost.com/articles/capacitors.htm#s25

Craig Baker · Post by **Craig Baker** » 18 May 2016 1:53 pm

Steven,
I'm beginning to get the impression that Rod Elliott doesn't like tantalum capacitors.

Thank goodness Tommy White and Gary Carter like them. By the way, Ron Elliott likes them too.

For some reason the major high-end audio equipment manufacturers forgot to check with Rod. Go figure.

Respectfully,
Craig Baker 706-485-8792

cmbakerelectronics@gmail.com

C.M. Baker Electronics
P.O. Box 3965
Eatonton, GA 31024

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