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Topic: What's Safest Way To Clean Changer? |
steve takacs
From: beijing, china via pittsburgh (deceased)
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Posted 13 Feb 2004 7:02 pm
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Before jumping in and cleaning the changer with a solvent, I looked up past threads and saw a number of cleaning choices: carburator cleaners, mineral spirits, compressed air, rubbing alcohol, etc. I'm particularly worried about damaging the lacquer and read that carburator fluid would do this. I read that rubbing alcohol would not, but does it clean oil and dirt well? Are there any other possible cleaners and which are damaging to lacquer finishes? Also, does one apply the slovents from the top of the changer or turn the steel upside down and apply from the udnersisde or does it not matter? How do you guys who regularly clean changers do this? Thanks in advance, steve |
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Bobby Boggs
From: Upstate SC.
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Posted 13 Feb 2004 10:39 pm
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A friend of mine who's not on line has an old Sho~Bud that's been sitting up for several years.I was wondering what is best and safest when a lacquer finish is envolved.I'm not going to get into taking the changer off and apart.Which it most likely what it needs.So I'm looking for an easy fix. So what's best?? Also I assume it's best to turn the guitar up-side down and maybe work the pedals while spraying or pouring whatever cleaner that is used??Thanks in advance............bb |
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Reggie Duncan
From: Mississippi
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Posted 13 Feb 2004 10:40 pm
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I turn mine upside down on a nice thick towel and put lighter fluid on it from underneath. I also have an air compressor and I blow it out, too. Black as smut!!!
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Bobby Lee
From: Cloverdale, California, USA
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Posted 13 Feb 2004 11:27 pm
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I've taken 'em apart and put all of the metal parts in the dishwasher for a spin. Cleans 'em right up.
Did I do something wrong?
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Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax |
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steve takacs
From: beijing, china via pittsburgh (deceased)
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 3:14 am
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Reggie, is lighter fluid non-damaging to lacquer (is your guitar lacquer?) Does the fluid spread onto non- metal parts of the steel when the compressed air forces it out? Thanks for the tips. b0b, I believe your answer confirms you participated fully in many events we identify with the 1960s.  |
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Larry Robbins
From: Fort Edward, New York
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 4:56 am
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b0b,
Was MRS. Lee home at the time?  |
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Reggie Duncan
From: Mississippi
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 6:22 am
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My guitar is Mica. I have never put lighter fluid on lacquer. The fluid doesn't splatter all over the guitar. Most of it goes right in the changer. After a couple minutes of sitting, I use the compressor. I haven't noticed it getting into other parts enough to matter.
If you are concerned about the finish, just leave the guitar upright and hold a towel beneath, squirting and working the changer.
Lighter fluid evaporates rather quickly. |
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James Quackenbush
From: Pomona, New York, USA
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 6:54 am
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I've never used it for cleaning , but I needed a rust remover one time, and an older gentleman who was a mechanic came over with some Sloan's Liniment ...He told me to put that on the rusted bolt ...I laughed my fool head off ...Well, I was amazed at how fast it worked on the rusted bolt !!...I'm not sure what it does to laquer, but it sure eat's rust and would imagine it will eat grease and other under steel crud that accumnulates !!..It penetrates skin, so I guess there isn't much else it won't penetrate ...I would try it out on a small out of site area first to make sure
It's worth a shot !!.....Jim
b0b ...I like your thinking !!...Now, did you use the rinse additive so you didn't have any spot's on your part's ???....  |
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Joerg Hennig
From: Bavaria, Germany
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 9:37 am
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The only SAFE and only really efficient way is to take the changer fingers out and clean them one by one; you can use something powerful like carburetor cleaner and can get ALL the dirt off, for instance with a toothbrush, and won´t have to worry about the finish of the guitar. Sure it takes longer, but is definitely worth it.
Regards, Joe H.
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Gary Lee Gimble
From: Fredericksburg, VA.
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 9:54 am
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Steve, as Joe has describe, take them apart one by one. Go to an auto supply outlet and purchase a can of Gunk. Gunk is a degreaser used to clean engines. Saturate each part and let soak over night. You can also soak the disassembled fingers in 87 octane gasoline. Hand dry each part and then submerge in Slick 50 or Mobil synthetic oil for another 24 hours. Pat dry and reassemble. This procedure has been prescribe by a guy who knows more about this stuff then I do, I have never removed or even cleaned a changer.
Gary Lee |
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Bobby Bowman
From: Cypress, Texas, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 10:07 am
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Joe Henry is exactly right. Take it off,,,especially on a painted guitar. If you're carefull, you can clean one on a mica cabinet, but you still need to to "clean and wipe up" as you go or you could end up with a smokey/milky/spotty looking finish. On mica, if you deside to clean the changer on the guitar, I think I would put a coat or two of really good polish on the cabinet first. Then repeat after the cleaning.
Another thing to check ahead of time is whether or not there are any knid of plastic/fiber spacers between the fingers and determine if the cleaning agent will adversly affect them.
B0b has a good idea with the dish washer. Also, with the changer off the guitar, hot soapy water, a brush and rag and a couple of good hot water rinses is probably the best method. If corrosion, rust and hard grime are a factor, then use a soft wire wheel, a fine finishing file and/or fine grit emory cloth. Then do the washing and rinsing.
BB
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If you play 'em, play 'em good!
If you build 'em, build 'em good!
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Gino Iorfida
From: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 14 Feb 2004 4:15 pm
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lighter fluid (Zippo/ronsonol) is naptha (don't get confused with the butane cans), which is safe for lacquer finishes-- so safe that when finishing/refinishing, it is used to clean the lacquer between sanding coats, and is also used ont he bare wood/betwen coats for spraying to degrease... VERY SAFE...
BEWARE-- I've heard of guys who heard lighter fluid, and ran out and bought charcoal lighter fluid, which is in most cases mineral spirits/kerosene, which the results can be mixed (some folks actually recommend using mineral spirits for wet sanding instead of water), since charcoal lighter fluid may or may not always be good pure mineral spirits, and may conatin something damaging... so in other words stick with naptha based cigarette lighter fluids. |
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Bobby Boggs
From: Upstate SC.
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Posted 15 Feb 2004 10:10 am
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Thanks Gino, So I guess lighter fluid (Zippo/ronsonol) would also be safe to use on a guitar with a mica finish?? Thanks..bb |
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steve takacs
From: beijing, china via pittsburgh (deceased)
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Posted 22 Feb 2004 9:52 pm
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So for now, I think I'll go with Gino's suggestion: cigarette lighter fluid that has the naptha. When I get up the courage and after a trip to the USA to buy Gary's suggested "GUNK", I'll attempt to take apart & clean the changer thouroughly. Thanks again to all you guys for providing the collective wisdom to make me feel more in control of the situation. A little knowledge goes a long way, and The Forum provides more than a little. steve [This message was edited by steve takacs on 22 February 2004 at 09:53 PM.] |
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