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Author Topic:  Fender PSG Questions
Rainer Hackstaette


From:
Bohmte, Germany
Post  Posted 16 Feb 2004 6:44 pm    
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I would like to know if the changer of the Fender Artist by Sho-Bud models is identical to the one of the 800/2000 and the late 400/1000 series?

The keyhead/roller nut looks like the one on the older Fenders. Is it?

The pickups are obviously a new design. I measured mine:
E9 = 11.2 kOhm
C6 = 12.0 kOhm
both on = 5.8 kOhm. I guess both on means wired in parallel, since the Ohm value is 1/4 of the sum. True?

What was the impedance of the Jazzmaster-type PU's?
Impedance of the Jaguar-type PU's?

Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks,
Rainer

------------------
Remington D-10 8+7, Sierra Crown D-10 gearless 8+8, Sierra Session S-14 gearless 8+5, '77 Emmons D-10 8+4, Sho~Bud Pro-I 3+5, Fender Artist D-10 8+4, Peavey Session 400 LTD, Peavey Vegas 400

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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 16 Feb 2004 8:34 pm    
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Changers were completely different, since one was for a cable guitar (knife-edge pivot) and the other was for a rod-operated guitar (standard axle pivot).

The keyhead rollers appeared very similar, but I'm not sure if they were actually identical.

Yes, the "both on" switch puts both pickups in parallel, as does most all guitars.

Jazzmaster style pickups had a slightly higher DC resistance than Jaguar style pickups (about 12.5k versus 11.5k). I do not recall the exact impedance difference (in Henrys), but it was also slightly higher. (The design of the pickups also affects the sound, even when resistance and impedance are the same.)

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Rainer Hackstaette


From:
Bohmte, Germany
Post  Posted 17 Feb 2004 4:37 am    
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Donny,

the Artist changer also uses a knife-edge design. There is no axle.

I can't post pics here, so I've sent you a photo of my changer by email.

Thanks,
Rainer
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 17 Feb 2004 2:30 pm    
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Rainer, the two changers are somewhat similar in design, but not in action. The older changers stretched the strings in a straight-pull (linear) fashion over a fixed bridge. The newer design changer stretches the strings by the rolling motion of a short, rounded, bridge section affixed to the top of the scissor finger. This feature, together with the addition of rod hookups on the bottom end of the changer, and the fact that the bodies of the cable-operated guitars were much thicker wood (in an aluminum frame) accounts for the differences in sound of the two guitars.
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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 17 Feb 2004 6:03 pm    
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Minor point Donny.

Impedance is measured in ohms. Also, impedance is always at a given frequency. Therefore, unlike DC resistance it is constantly varying when playing. If only one impedance is listed for a PU it assumes a given frequency (tone) of IKHz.

When one measures a PU with an ohmeter, we are ONLY measuring the DC resistance of the wire. It has nothing to do with impedance. Henry's determines the inductive reactance (expressed in ohms) of a coil at a given frequency. It also determines impedance (expressed in ohms) at a given frequency IF, the capacitance is taken into consideration, IE;

RsubL=2pifl

Where RsubL is the the inductive reactance expressed in ohms. OR, "a coils resistance to AC"

pi=6.28 (a constant)

f=frequency in Hz

l=henrys of the coil

or,,,

RsubC=1 over 2pifc

Where RsubC is the the inductive reactance of the capacitor expressed in ohms. Or, "A capacitors resistance to AC"

2pi=6.28 (a constant)

f=frequency

c=farads

Impedance is:

Z=1 over 2pif times the square root of (L times C) and is expressed in ohms.

where,

Z=impedance (ohms)

2pi=6.28

f=frequency

L=henrys

C=farads

Please don't hang me at dawn Donny. Love you man



carl
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Tim Whitlock


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 18 Feb 2004 6:27 am    
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What's the easiest way to check the resistance of one's pickups (please no truck jokes)? Can it be done from the guitar's output jack, somehow, or do you have to remove the pickup? What's the cheapest device that is readily available (Radio Shack) to check this? Thanks!
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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 18 Feb 2004 9:50 am    
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Buy the cheapest ohmeter you can get at Radio Shack:

1. Set it to ohms.

2. If the guitar has a volume control* turn it to full ON.

3. Attach the leads of the ohmeter to the non guitar end of your guitar's cable. IE, one lead to tip; the other to the ring of the plug.

3. If you have a multi neck steel, then make sure you are only selecting a given neck when reading the DC resistance.

* Note: Most Volume controls when all the way on have a high enough resistance not to have a noticable effect on the reading. IF you prefer a more accurate way when you have a guitar with a built in volume control, then of course, disconnect the hot end of the PU and measure it directly.

carl
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 18 Feb 2004 3:06 pm    
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Quite right, Carl! I meant to say "inductance" instead of "impedance". Anyhow, the numbers themselves aren't really significant to the average player, but their relationship is. With all other design factors being equal, the inductance, the impedance, and the DC resistance all go up as windings are added.

If I'm not mistaken, Bill Lawrence gets his pickup model numbers from the inductance of the pickup, with the first number being the inductance (in Henrys), and the second and third numbers being the number strings. So, a "710" pickup would be a 10-string, 7 Henry pickup.

[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 18 February 2004 at 03:08 PM.]

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