Vintage Marlen Refurb HELP!
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
Vintage Marlen Refurb HELP!
Hi all
I just picked up a 1970 Marlen 210 in Nashville.
I repair guitars but have never done a steel refurb.
Suggestions/info/contacts for parts will all be greatly appreciated.
So looking forward to this project.
Thanks, in advance...
Tim
I just picked up a 1970 Marlen 210 in Nashville.
I repair guitars but have never done a steel refurb.
Suggestions/info/contacts for parts will all be greatly appreciated.
So looking forward to this project.
Thanks, in advance...
Tim
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Lane, all my Marlen parts, except knee levers, are gone.
The bellcranks are easy to make, if you use Emmons swivels, which are readily available. In fact, there are are s few places under s Marlen where you want longer than factory cranks.
I may have s few of those seesaw stops that fit on cross shafts. You have one, it appears, in the center of a cross shaft so it operates in the center of the guitar. That makes for mush and a bad stop. Pressure against the cabinet will bend the cross shaft. Try to keep your stops at the ends of the cross shafts.
The bellcranks are easy to make, if you use Emmons swivels, which are readily available. In fact, there are are s few places under s Marlen where you want longer than factory cranks.
I may have s few of those seesaw stops that fit on cross shafts. You have one, it appears, in the center of a cross shaft so it operates in the center of the guitar. That makes for mush and a bad stop. Pressure against the cabinet will bend the cross shaft. Try to keep your stops at the ends of the cross shafts.
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.
- Scott Duckworth
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What particularly are you needing to do to it?
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
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I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!
http://www.qsl.net/na4it
I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!
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- richard burton
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agreed.. It looks really complete.. I doubt it needs any parts.. Just a good cleaning/lubrication/setup.. I have a pull release Marlen, but your mechanism is much earlier than mine is.. Many of the parts are different, and I recently sold my Marlen parts.. They don't wear much anyhow, and I doubt you need anything from what I can see.. Your Marlen once set up and adjusted will stay that way for years.. They are rock solid, and super stable,, Oh yeah, they also play soft and sound like fine old gold.. I spent days with mine learning how it worked.. Once I acquired the knack, it wasn't that big a deal.. There's a guy in Virginia that worked for Marlen, has some parts, and knows them very well.. I got some parts and good advice from him, but have forgotten his name I am ashamed to say.. Several guys here do know who he is... bobLane Gray wrote:It looks like it just needs taking apart and cleaning.
Unless you were wanting to add more.
Gorgeous guitars.
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
The only parts I'd throw at it, assuming those are â…›" rods, would be going to stainless steel rods, so it'd have some visual pop.
It DEFINITELY needs a proper setup: see those barrels on some of the rods? They tune the open notes on strings that both raise and lower (that's why they're only on some rods: they go on lowering rods if that string also has a raise: if you plan on raising 1&2, you'll need a threaded lowering rod on 2). I'm seeing them holding fingers against the body. That's just silly, even without strings on it.
It DEFINITELY needs a proper setup: see those barrels on some of the rods? They tune the open notes on strings that both raise and lower (that's why they're only on some rods: they go on lowering rods if that string also has a raise: if you plan on raising 1&2, you'll need a threaded lowering rod on 2). I'm seeing them holding fingers against the body. That's just silly, even without strings on it.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
- richard burton
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Lane Gray wrote:Richard, your clever constantly astounds me.
If I wore a hat, I'd doff it.
He is a pretty crafty dude, isn't he?..
In my case, being my Marlen is an S10, I didn't experience those issues.. My cross shafts are shorter and very stout,I think they are 3/8 as opposed to 5/16 which looks like what is on Richards guitar.. That being said, I too cobbed up a few engineering marvel "improvements"on the Marlen design that helped playability and tunability - most notably the fact that thinner changer pull rods helped greatly on some changes, especially on strings that were raised and lowered a full tone or had 2 raises and a lower on the same string.. Those thick factory rods would actually bind in the holes they were designed to fit by mr Stadler himself.. It took a while to find out what was going on, lots of close observation underneath the guitar.. Thinner rods allowed more freedom of movement in the changer fingers themselves, and resolved a host of tuning and playability issues all at once...bob
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
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Richard is held in great esteem by members on the British Forum, his technical solutions never cease to amaze us.I have never had the pleasure of seeing him play live, but can only say that from the recordings I have heard of him ,he is a class player as well as a great engineer.
MSA Millenium SD10, GK MB200, Sica 12inch cab, Joyo American Sound Pedal/ Jay Ganz Straight Ahead amp, Telonics 15inch in Peavey cab, Digitech RP150, Peterson tuner.Hilton volume pedal.Scott Dixon seat and guitar flight case.
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Wow.
I can't believe how much great info and support you guys have given me.
I am out on tour and haven't had time to check in here, the first day off (today) and all these replies, thank you.
As I have been checking out the steel, it really does look like just a few things seem problematic.
I need new knee levers.
One of the pins where the ball end of the string attaches is broken off. (see photo)
And it looks like There is a spot for a 4th knee lever, not sure if one was ever there.
Any body have a clue about this paint job? Did Marlen custom paint?
Shipping the steel back to Canada today and I'll be home on the 13th for some time off and I'm going to get to work on this beauty.
I can't believe how much great info and support you guys have given me.
I am out on tour and haven't had time to check in here, the first day off (today) and all these replies, thank you.
As I have been checking out the steel, it really does look like just a few things seem problematic.
I need new knee levers.
One of the pins where the ball end of the string attaches is broken off. (see photo)
And it looks like There is a spot for a 4th knee lever, not sure if one was ever there.
Any body have a clue about this paint job? Did Marlen custom paint?
Shipping the steel back to Canada today and I'll be home on the 13th for some time off and I'm going to get to work on this beauty.
I was a bit worried when I first saw it and was deciding how much to pay for it but the more i do research on older steels, it does look like my Marlen is in pretty good condition and just needs some time put in to get it in working order.richard burton wrote:No it hasn't, it's been like that since the day it was made.Tim Mech wrote: It really has seen better days
Thanks for the good eye and honesty Richard.
My initial fears was that it needed more that it does.Scott Duckworth wrote:What particularly are you needing to do to it?
At this point...
Clean it.
Fix a couple of the mechanical problems: one cross shaft has popped out of one side of the body, the knee levers need replacing/repair.
Re-string and set up.
I believe that once it gets up and running I'll figure the rest of the "issues" that need to be addressed.
And I'll post my progress here and absolutely ask for help from anyone willing to pipe in.
Thanks!
The Perm that I'm working on ended up needing more.
Make sure that all fingers pivot on the axle, mine had two fingers frozen to the axle.
It'll probably be easiest to press new pins into the fingers if they're off the guitar.
Make sure that all fingers pivot on the axle, mine had two fingers frozen to the axle.
It'll probably be easiest to press new pins into the fingers if they're off the guitar.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
So this blue sparkle, 70's airbrush logo finish is how it came from Marlen?Lane Gray wrote:Until he started doing mica guitars, ALL of Len's guitars featured custom lacquer.
Incredible.
There isn't any Marlen logo, stamping or I.D. plate on this, which kind of worried me a bit when I first checked it out.
But I had done a bit of Marlen research and recognized things that put my mind to rest.
Thanks Lane.
I'm not a metalworking whiz. I'd take a good finger and the broken finger to a machine shop and say "make this one look like the other one, and that pin will have to restrain 30 pounds of tension for many years."
I believe they're steel spring pins, but I know nothing about how to make them.
I believe they're steel spring pins, but I know nothing about how to make them.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects