The Steel Guitar Forum

I've been having trouble with the 10th string low C to A lower on the C6 neck (1979 Sho-Bud Super Pro). The string will be tuned to pitch, the string will lower to A, but it comes back sharp. Probably about halfway between C and C#. But if I stretch the string with my hands, it will return to C. I've had this problem for a while, so I started checking pedal travel to make sure nothing is overtuned, but I can't get this to go away. There are 3 changes on this pedal: 7th string C to C#, 9th string F to E and 10th string C to A. Which requires more travel?

try putting a little lube (tri-flo or 3 in 1 or something) on the nut roller for that string and spin it around for a minute.

The name that has been applied to that is "Hysteresis". If you check there are probably other strings that you both raise and lower that are doing the same thing.

My PP Emmons had the problem.

My Franklin has tuneable "drop return" compensators to eliminate that problem.

Chris, Jack had correct name for it and it is very prominent in your larger gauge wound strings. It is simply that the winds gather on top of changer roller as it raises back from a lower back to pitch. Every steel does it and the little compensators do help to eliminate it. You just have to live with it. I've learned to control it with bar pressure after a lower.

Jack Stoner wrote:The name that has been applied to that is "Hysteresis"......
My Franklin has tuneable "drop return" compensators to eliminate that problem.

I seem to remember an interview with Paul Sr, where he described his solution to the problem. If memory serves, he used a small compressible rubber "o-ring" between the lower tuning nut and changer. The ring was compressed when the lower changer finger was moved forward . When the change was released, the ring expanded back to normal, exerting just enough force to push the lower finger back to pitch.......or something like that.

Anyone familiar with that

I sure these guys are on the target, but as a thought, have you tried releasing a little of the tension on the spring that pulls the lowering finger.

Tony, you are close.

Franklin uses a separate rod in the lower finger connected to a stationary "puller". There is a rubber O ring between the finger and the "tuning nut" for the compensator adjustment. However, I found two rubber O rings are needed on the C6th 10 string lower to get the compensator to work properly (one was inconsistent and two made it positive).

When's the last time you put new strings on ? I know it sounds like a simple solution. I had a guitar that was doing this , not returning to pitch, and I put new strings on and it solved the problem.

My friend and picking buddy called me a couple weeks ago and said his steel was doing the same thing. Most noticeable on the 4th after a lower. A little is pretty common, but his was going sharp by about a half tone. I had experienced the same thing on my all pull changer, and was pretty sure I knew what the problem was.

Fast forward: The aluminum spacer on the 4th string lower pull rod, that is between the nylon tuning nut and changer finger, had gotten buggered up through normal playing and use and had formed a sharp edge rolled inward and would catch or hang on the threads of the pull rod and not return to tune...

Fix: Pulled the tuning nut off the effected strings pull rod, removed the aluminum spacer and using a sharp pocket knife removed the bur, then redressed the end of the spacer with a small filed. Reinstalled the spacer and tuning nut. Problem gone...

I think this is more common then expected on all pull changers and is a very simple fix. Of course you could replace the spacer with a new one. Replace with a nylon spacer of the same size from ACE Hardware(I've done that on occasion) or send it off for repair or sell it. I'll bet that has happened too...

Only posted this as general info because I don't recall seeing anything about this particular problem posted before. And of course this may not be your problem at all...

Mine was on 4th string lower as well. It was more than just a few cents. Changing strings worked. I never would have guessed it. It's worth a shot if you haven't already done that.

The strings are only about a month-and-a-half old, and I usually only have time to play a couple hours a night, and usually not even every night. I've noticed it on the 4th, 9th and 10th strings on the C6 neck. And its not just a little sharp. Its definitely noticeable to the ears.