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Author Topic:  Solder George L cables?
Nigel Mullen

 

From:
Cassilis, New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 4:47 am    
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I'm wondering if I can solder my George L cables. I want to change the George L screw type plug for just a regular soldered plug. Twice now, I've arrived at a gig, plugged everything in and had no sound. I found both times that it was one of the George L plug connections that had failed. Both times there was no warning up front. I like the George L cables really well and they sound great to me but I don't think the screw type plugs are a great idea. Anyhow, thanks for any help you can offer. NM
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Jay Ganz


From:
Out Behind The Barn
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 4:51 am    
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Yeah....I solder 'em.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 6:42 am    
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I've been using George l's cable and connectors since they came out in the 80's. I've had one connection fail in 35 years. I've had more regular soldered connections on switchcraft plugs fail than that.
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Ron Whitworth


From:
Yuma,Ariz.USA Yeah they say it's a DRY heat !!
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 6:43 am    
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Hello Jay;
Would you please take a couple of close up pictures & post them here on how you did it + what
ends do you use?

I am having the same problem as Nigel is & it is
driving me crazy..
I thought I had blown up one of my tube amps the last time it happened a week ago -
was another bad connection on a Geo L cable & end.
When I kicked a stompbox on my amp sounded like it had exploded!!
I am tired of repairing cables all the time.
Thank You
Ron
_________________
"Tone is in the hands. Unless your wife will let you buy a new amp. Then it's definitely in that amp."

We need to turn the TWANG up a little

It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.

They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head Smile

Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron

the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 9:04 am    
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Are you using the straight or right angle plugs. I have never had a problem with the straight plugs. The right angle plugs are crap. I still use a couple of them, but have switched most of them to straight plugs. The angle plugs have that screw-on cap that comes loose when you handle the cord. Has happened more for me than any cord I have used in 44 years of playing.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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David Nugent

 

From:
Gum Spring, Va.
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 10:29 am    
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Have to agree with Jack, very rarely experience a problem with George L cords but on the few occasions that I have (and yes, it was the right angle, screw in style plugs), repair was accomplished in a matter of minutes. Would take longer to heat the soldering iron, LOL.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 11:40 am    
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With the right angle plugs I do have, I always tighten the cap before plugging them in. Works good.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Malcolm McMaster


From:
Beith Ayrshire Scotland
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 12:27 pm    
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The right angled "Master Plug" by GL was a lot better than the standard right angle ones, but they don't make them anymore, if you come across any snap them up, never had a problem with them.
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Nigel Mullen

 

From:
Cassilis, New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 1:28 pm    
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The problem I had is with the straight plugs. I don't use the right angle plugs at all. I prefer the George L cables more than any other brand I have used. I carry a spare set with me but just thought a soldered plug would be more reliable. Thanks for all your comments. Really appreciate your input. After reading Jack's input, I think I'll just continue with what I have.
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 2:55 pm    
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I use the right angle plugs but after I screw the cap on I put the Jack in a vice with rubber jaws and use a pair of players to tighten the cap down. Works pretty good.
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Mark van Allen


From:
Watkinsville, Ga. USA
Post  Posted 14 Jun 2015 8:01 pm    
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A ditto on the right angle master plug. Different animal. I do like my GL cords.
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Ron Whitworth


From:
Yuma,Ariz.USA Yeah they say it's a DRY heat !!
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 6:48 am    
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Well, to each their own.

I am/was using both the straight & the angled plugs.
I have had problems with both of them -
I am just tired of having to track down which one is bad
then having to do a quick repair.

I know a lot of folks don't have any problems with the Geo L cables & connectors but I ain't one of those folks.

When I did a google search on the problem apparently
I am not the only one having problems with them.
There are a lot of folks ( mainly guitarists ) that
have ditched the Geo L's & went with soldered cables.

I am in the process now of soldering some new cables &
ends together right now.
I know they can give problems too but I will carry tested spares with me just in case.

That's my story on mine - my best to everyone.
Ron
_________________
"Tone is in the hands. Unless your wife will let you buy a new amp. Then it's definitely in that amp."

We need to turn the TWANG up a little

It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.

They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head Smile

Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron

the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 9:10 am    
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Our lead guitar player started using George L's about 5 years ago. He has never had a problem with them. But, he doesn't use any right angle plugs.
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Rick Barnhart


From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 9:19 am    
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I wouldn't solder George L's. I only use the straight plugs with stress relief jackets and never have problems.



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Mike Brown

 

From:
Meridian, Mississippi USA
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 11:44 am     Soldered vs.
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Soldered cables are always better.
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Malcolm McMaster


From:
Beith Ayrshire Scotland
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 11:50 am    
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No they're not, had more problems over the years with soldered cables than I have ever had with George L. I do normally have great respect for your opinions Mike, but believe you are wrong on this one.
_________________
MSA Millenium SD10, GK MB200, Sica 12inch cab, Joyo American Sound Pedal/ Jay Ganz Straight Ahead amp, Telonics 15inch in Peavey cab, Digitech RP150, Peterson tuner.Hilton volume pedal.Scott Dixon seat and guitar flight case.
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Richard Wilhelm

 

From:
Ventura County, California
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 12:10 pm    
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Another way to work with the angled GL is to slice a bit of rubber shielding off the side where the scew in cap makes contact with the outer ground wire.
_________________
"Be Kind to Animals, don't eat Them"
"If you know music, you°ll know most everything you°ll need to know" Edgar Cayce
"You're only young forever" Harpo Marx

Fender 400, Fender FM212, G&L ASAT.

Was part of a hippie-Christian store in Cotati, California (circa 1976) called THE EYE OF THE RAINBOW. May God love you.
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Malcolm McMaster


From:
Beith Ayrshire Scotland
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 12:38 pm    
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Anybody tried these George L ones, look like the master plug only straight.Wonder if Jeff Surratt could say why they discontinued the Master Plug as he now does the GL cables and plugs. I have two sets of GL cables one 10 years old, standard angled plugs at guitar end and amp input end, repaired once after someone tripped over it, total repair time one minute. My second set fitted with master plug at guitar end and at amp input end is five years old , no repairs.Don't think you will get much better service from a product than that, during that time scale I have had to replace numerous brand named leads for my Telecaster, obvious difference is amount of movement between steel and guitar cables.

_________________
MSA Millenium SD10, GK MB200, Sica 12inch cab, Joyo American Sound Pedal/ Jay Ganz Straight Ahead amp, Telonics 15inch in Peavey cab, Digitech RP150, Peterson tuner.Hilton volume pedal.Scott Dixon seat and guitar flight case.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 15 Jun 2015 1:00 pm    
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Richard Wilhelm wrote:
Another way to work with the angled GL is to slice a bit of rubber shielding off the side where the scew in cap makes contact with the outer ground wire.


Getting a good ground wasn't a problem for me. It's the cap would loosen up from plugging and unplugging the cords. Then you would get a nasty buzz.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jun 2015 12:39 pm    
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I've used George L cables/plugs for about 25-30 years.

I have never had ONE loosen up, not go together properly or lose contact. IF they are assembled carefully and correctly, they are rock-solid. A few guys I know who want some "insurance" simply put a tiny drop of thin superglue on the angle-plug threads. IT holds it in place, but can also be easily taken apart if needed (superglue has poor shear strength.

I read these threads and I honestly don't understand the problem - and I've made dozens (for myself and others) for pedalboards or guitar cables. I use the heavies gage with my 6-string from guitar to board, and the thin-gage on the board(s) and from board to amp.

Cut with a well-sharpened tool. roll the end between you fingers for about 10 seconds, and put them together. No problem.

I'm usually the band tech as well - and I can't count the number of soldered cables I've done emergency repairs on!
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Drew Pierce

 

From:
Arkansas, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jun 2015 7:22 pm    
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Jim Sliff wrote:
I've used George L cables/plugs for about 25-30 years.

I have never had ONE loosen up, not go together properly or lose contact. IF they are assembled carefully and correctly, they are rock-solid. A few guys I know who want some "insurance" simply put a tiny drop of thin superglue on the angle-plug threads. IT holds it in place, but can also be easily taken apart if needed (superglue has poor shear strength.

I read these threads and I honestly don't understand the problem - and I've made dozens (for myself and others) for pedalboards or guitar cables. I use the heavies gage with my 6-string from guitar to board, and the thin-gage on the board(s) and from board to amp.

Cut with a well-sharpened tool. roll the end between you fingers for about 10 seconds, and put them together. No problem.

I'm usually the band tech as well - and I can't count the number of soldered cables I've done emergency repairs on!


This post is worth re-reading. It's spot-on and says what anybody needs to know about George L's cables. Especially noteworthy is cutting cables with a "well-sharpened tool". Good, square ends are essential.
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Drew Pierce
Emmons D10 Fatback, S10 bolt-on, Zum D10, Evans RE500, Hilton volume and delay pedals.
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 21 Jun 2015 6:38 am    
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Cut the George L wire with a utility knife with a new blade. I also cut the wire on a hard surface like a piece of Corian for a clean cut so the wire filaments are not squashed.

I use regular George L jacks for rack or pedal connectors.

Stretch George L plugs for guitar to volume pedal to effects to amp as they have a knurled
end and easier to push and pull.

Master George L for six string guitar or Bass as they are hefty.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 21 Jun 2015 8:23 am    
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I have always cut the cable with regular wire cutters, I just take my finger and push the ground shield to the outside of the cord. No problems.

The strain reliefs are good if you have trouble with the cable starting to come out. I find them a nuisance if you need to get the cords in tight spaces, like having 2 stomp boxes reasonably close. I don't have any problems with the straight plugs without the strain relief. Althigh, I should probably put them on the plugs on the cord that goes from my VP to amp as "tripping insurance". Right now I don't have any cords with the strain reliefs, and have no problems. You situation may be different though.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Tim Walker

 

From:
Marin County, CA (originally U.K)
Post  Posted 21 Jun 2015 12:21 pm    
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Use a new blade in a utility knife to cut the cable as close to 90 degrees as possible. Try to do it on a firm metal surface like the edge of a road case if you can.
I've had a couple go bad over the years (usually after the TSA has been through my stuff) but it's always an easy fix. If you are wiring a pedal board always leave plenty of slack in the length.
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Stephen Gambrell

 

From:
Over there
Post  Posted 21 Jun 2015 2:18 pm    
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I've used the straight plugs a lot--The trick to them s getting the set-screw tight enough to hold, but not so tight as to go through the braid, and short the hot to the shield.

I wonder if the same is true with the right-angle plugs?

Anybody ever have trouble with one of the old gray Fender cables?
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