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Author Topic:  broken pot shaft
Tommy Boswell

 

From:
Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 5:33 am    
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My Fender Bassman 70 has a broken shaft on the bass channel bass tone control. My schematic shows it as a 250K-J (all the tone pots are the same), and 021857, which I assume is a part number.

Where can I get the part? And can I do it myself? I can do basic soldering. And I know you have to be careful when you go into a tube amp, stuff in there can kill you.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 7:05 am    
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If you ask me, a Radio Shack pot should be adequate, since it's not a volume pedal.
I'd bleed the capacitors through a light bulb just to be safe
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Bill Terry


From:
Bastrop, TX
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 7:10 am    
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I just replaced a 250K tone pot on my Vibrolux Reverb with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Bourns-Guitar-Potentiometer-Audio-Solid/dp/B003WUMXUU/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1429801433&sr=1-1&keywords=250K+audio

Shipping cost more than the pot.. I'm sure there are other sources somebody will post, but this one works fine and isn't super expensive.

I see Lane posted about RS, also another option. I decided due to the PIA involved with swapping it out I wanted to use a pot with a steel shaft. The plastic shaft ones can get snapped off pretty easy with a good bump in just the right place.
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 7:10 am    
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The trouble with the new style pots is the shaft size, most are metric, and will fit loose in the chassis. CTS is still availlable, and may be what your original is.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/potentiometers_0?page=0%2C0&filters=Brand%3DCTS
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Michael Maddex


From:
Northern New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 7:28 am    
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Good suggestions there. Here's another:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Guitar-Electrical-Components_c_14.html

HTH. Good Luck with your repair.
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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 7:44 am    
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Go to Antique Electronics and get one of these CTS pots:
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/potentiometers_0?filters=Brand%3DCTS
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Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
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Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
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Mark Fowler


From:
Minnesota, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 9:24 am    
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I prefer CTS pots for feel and quality. This is a CTS 250k-J 30% taper pot exact replacement.

http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/CTS/Mojotone-Vintage-Taper-CTS-250K-Guitar-Potentiometer-Solid-Shaft#.VTktq9JVikp

The Bourn's pots are same size 3/8 shaft and 3/8 shaft length. Stiffer feel. Get them from www.apexjr.com

http://www.apexjr.com/Bourns.htm
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Tommy Boswell

 

From:
Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 4:58 pm    
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I knew you guys would come through, thanks!
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Tommy Boswell

 

From:
Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 5:01 pm    
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Lane Gray wrote:
I'd bleed the capacitors through a light bulb just to be safe


I assume that's because glass does not conduct electricity? Also, does the light bulb glow until the capacitors are discharged?
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 5:20 pm    
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The light-bulb acts as a current-limiting resistor, and gives a visual indication of residual charge.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 23 Apr 2015 10:00 pm    
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Bingo. Draining them with a screwdriver can kill them
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2015 1:03 pm    
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Lane Gray wrote:
... I'd bleed the capacitors through a light bulb...

Can you explain this technique? I'm not planning on going inside my amp anytime soon, but inquiring minds want to know...
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2015 2:06 pm    
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The wires going to the "doghouse" holding the caps? Touch one end of the wire with the light bulb in it to ground, and the other end to the point where they meet the board.
I think I'd read that turning the amp on while unplugged will discharge them also.
Or, better yet, here's a handy video on amp safety, including bleeding filter caps. DIY: Amp Safety 101: http://youtu.be/DkEc58-vWc4
Down in the comments, one guy suggested taking an extension cord, cutting off the blades of the power plug and leaving the ground conductor, and plugging the amp into that grounding cable, and plugging that dead cord into the wall.
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Bill A. Moore


From:
Silver City, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2015 3:02 pm    
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https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Constructing+a+Capacitor+Discharge+Tool/2177
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Blake Hawkins


From:
Florida
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2015 4:49 pm    
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What Bill Moore posted: I've used a similar resistor with clip leads for years to discharge the caps.
A note here: All well designed power supplies in
tube type amps include a bleeder resistor to discharge the caps automatically when the amp is turned off.
Most of the time, this does the job. But, when an amp has a malfunction you don't know what is going on, so manually discharging the caps is an important safety procedure.
I do it on every amp I open up.
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2015 5:06 pm    
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Lane Gray wrote:

Down in the comments, one guy suggested taking an extension cord, cutting off the blades of the power plug and leaving the ground conductor, and plugging the amp into that grounding cable, and plugging that dead cord into the wall.


I don't see how that would help... you still have a cord, plugged into the wall... is it the grounded-only one? And what does grounding the chassis do for you? Not much, if anything.

On another note, turning the amp on to discharge caps doesn't work... no current flows unless the heaters are hot, when cold a vacuum tube is a perfect insulator... and electrolytic caps can act like batteries and regain a charge electro-chemically. Some caps can charge up just sitting around... a television picture tube can store up thousands of volts from cosmic rays hitting it.

Some amps shouldn't require discharging... the Fender amps (Twin etc) that have stacked caps in the PS have splitter resistors across them, these bleed the voltage down when the amp is off... but the resistor can fail. All the small Fender amps don't have this, you can get bit real hard by a Deluxe or Princeton.

When in doubt, short it out!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2015 8:33 am    
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Stephen, the idea is to send all those electrons to ground. I don't think it's a bad idea but it does seem like overkill. Like belt and suspenders.
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2015 9:39 am    
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Lane Gray wrote:
Stephen, the idea is to send all those electrons to ground. I don't think it's a bad idea but it does seem like overkill. Like belt and suspenders.


Lane, when you have the chassis open, and you're messing around inside, having it grounded does nothing for your safety... you will still shock the crap out of yourself if you touch the chassis and B+... but now, you will be able to shock yourself by touching B+ and any other grounded equipment. I can't think of any scenario where this idea helps at all... sorry.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2015 10:45 am    
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Good point.
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Michael Maddex


From:
Northern New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2015 4:22 pm    
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Lane Gray wrote:
... Down in the comments, one guy suggested taking an extension cord, cutting off the blades of the power plug and leaving the ground conductor, and plugging the amp into that grounding cable, and plugging that dead cord into the wall.

It sounds to me like this person has his equipment mixed up. It's been a while, but IIRC, sometimes a tech working on a chassis or PCB from a PC will want to ground himself and his board (that is, bring both to the same potential) to minimize the chance of a static discharge which can damage some of the chips used in computer circuits. This is, obviously, a very different situation from working on tube amps or the power supply for the PC.

FWIW, M2¢W. YMMV.
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Blake Hawkins


From:
Florida
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2015 6:36 pm    
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Just a note to what Michael said. When working on static sensitive solid state equipment. The technician should be using a grounding wrist strap which includes a current limiting resistor.
That is the safe way to do it.

Additional comment to my previous post. I checked over my Fender diagrams. Steven is 100% correct about Fender amps. Other than the resistors he mentioned, Fender does not have bleeders in their power supplies.
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