Sho-Bud Pro Tuning Compensators?

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

I was checking out Hans Holzherr's U12 copedent in another thread, and noticed his tuning compensators:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1403/3459_copedent_U12_1.jpg

The way I read this is, when the B's are raised to C#, string 7/F# is adjusted down/flat. I assume it is a tiny adjustment.

I can visualize doing this by adding one (or more) rods on a guitar with a multiple raise/multiple lower changer.

Has anyone added tuning compensators to a Sho-Bud Professional?Â

The Sho-Bud Professional changer has just one raise finger and one lower finger, but each pedal or lever can have any number of pulls. It is ridiculous, but possible to configure a pedal (or lever) that pulls the raise-finger AND lower-finger on EVERY string.Â

Dan

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Indeed it is.
That's the genius of the single single system, whether racks or 2-hole
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Hi Lane. Hey, I enjoyed your tryout of the new Evans amp.

Do you use compensators on your Zum? How much do they change the compensated strings?

I'm hoping to learn if someone has actually tried this with a Sho-Bud Professional. With a modern bell crank you can use a hole very close to the shaft. That means less horizontal movement when the pedal or lever is activated.

I can't select how far from the shaft to add a rod, so I don't know if I can achieve such a small tweak with enough precision to make it worthwhile.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I don't use them anymore, after going to something real close to ET. The only place I ever used one was A pedal, 7th string. On a modern guitar, I'd use the closest hole to the bellcrank and the lowest raise hole on the finger.
On the Professional, obviously, you can't control leverage, so you'll just have a "hitch" near the end of the travel
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Dan, I had a professional and I had a lever that pulled 1 and 7, 1/2 then one whole, with a feel stop in-between. (The one sold by PSG parts.) The pull didn't time out real well so I put a rod on 7 to lower it just a tad at the end of the travel. It was perfect. They started together and ended together. So yes, I see no reason why you can not put a rod in the lowering hole, say on the A pedal to lower 7 a smidge. I'd also lower 1 a smidge from the A pedal. I miss my old R/B ShoBud. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Thanks, Ron. I will try that.

I like using 8,7,5 while lowering E.
And getting the minor on 7,6 and 5 with AB pedaled.

But the open tuning of 7 is a compromise for those.

So compensating 7 (a wee bit flat) on my A pedal might help. Does that make sense?

Hans Holzherr · From: Münchenbuchsee, Switzerland

Dan, the theoretical value for the compensation for the F# is -22 cents (rounded), which is easily noticeable by ear.
As described in the other threads, you have the choice of either an added force to overcome at the very end of the pedal throw, or an added (greater) force which is more distributed (when using two rods).

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Thanks, Hans!

My guitar is a rack-and-barrel Sho-Bud I cannot time pulls. The added compensator tension will come near the end of the pedal throw. The longest pull is felt first, shortest pull is felt last. Most of the time I don't notice, so this will be no different.

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