Rickenbacker Bakelite questions

Frank James Pracher · Post by **Frank James Pracher** » 10 Nov 2014 12:01 pm

I know a fellow who has a Rickenbacker bakelite that he is interested in selling. I didn't have too much time to play it and look it over. The fellow said it's a 1940. It has the larger 1.5 inch magnets. I did notice that the lowest (bass) string was rattling against the horse shoe pickup. They didn't look bent or pushed down. Is the height adjustable on these?
The body looked great, no cracks and didn't appear warped in anyway. Some of the white plastic covers are cracked and one is missing.
He's asking $850, is this reasonable?

David Matzenik · Post by **David Matzenik** » 10 Nov 2014 12:15 pm

If the horseshoe is touching a string it is adjusted by the screw next to it. Either end of the pickup. But it means the whole set up is out of whack and needs to be looked at carefully. With cracked and missing plates I'd say 850 is a bit steep.

Ron Whitfield · Post by **Ron Whitfield** » 10 Nov 2014 12:22 pm

The cracked plastic plates could be considered a bonus, they often denote a guitar that was displayed at early trade (NAMM) shows and Rickenbacher always took their best guitars. Proceed with caution, there are better B6 deals to be had.

Erv Niehaus · Post by **Erv Niehaus** » 10 Nov 2014 12:57 pm

I didn't think they used the white plastic plates until WW2 due to the shortage of metal. I doubt if it is a 1940 model. What does the logo on the headstock look like? How is Rickenbacker spelled, with a K or an H?

Frank James Pracher · Post by **Frank James Pracher** » 10 Nov 2014 1:07 pm

Erv, I don't remember the spelling. It was the smaller logo on a metal plate not the larger T shaped logo I've seen on some. If it helps to date it. The bridge was molded into the guitar, and the strings went through the body. One knob was white and one was black. Looked like this

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1 ... 0257_1.jpg

Scott Thomas · Post by **Scott Thomas** » 10 Nov 2014 1:15 pm

Frank, that guitar has what is referred to as wartime features...sort of a short lived transitional evolution before T-logos, 1.25" pickups, and top loading bridges came in.

1940 is a good date for it.

Erv Niehaus · Post by **Erv Niehaus** » 10 Nov 2014 1:39 pm

Frank,
Yes, that is one of the earlier models the way you describe it. What had me confused was the white plastic plates.

Bud Angelotti · Post by **Bud Angelotti** » 11 Nov 2014 6:02 pm

Frank - This past summer I had the pots replaced in my old trusty 1940 ric model 59. The fella who did the replacement did a great job except for one thing.
The bass string was ratteling aganst the pickup and he could not for the life of him fiqure out what he did wrong. Well we fiqured it out pretty quick.
When he put the pickup back in, it was put in upside down. It fit fine either way and was a simple mistake, except it would touch the string.
If you buy it take the pickup off, turn it around and see if that stops the rattle.
While you're at it with the pickup out, see if there is some newsprint inside with a date.
It's real easy to pop that pickup out and put it back.

Bill Creller · Post by **Bill Creller** » 15 Nov 2014 10:09 pm

Guess I don't know why this is such a mystery.....either two phillips head screws, or two knurled thumb nuts, is what Rickenbacher used to adjust pickup height...on bakelites and frypans...

Adjusted too low, strings hit the magnets, and too high, strings hit the poles of the pick up...

Happy medium is in the middle, or, thickness of a dime above the poles...

Frank did mention that the guitar had the (1.5") 1 1/2 inch magnets...

The plastic plates could be replaced with the metal type. They show up on Ebay now & then. I made a few for lost/replacements etc.

John Limbach · Post by **John Limbach** » 16 Nov 2014 5:15 am

Here's how to adjust the height per the "Source", Rickenbacker guru Rick Aiello:

"Once you remount and restring ...

1) Adjust the pickup to where it TOUCHES the bobbin ... at both string 1 and 6.

2) Lower each side ... a half turn at a time till the strings clear the bobbin.

3) Plug into your amp at the volume/tone setting you are used to.

4) Turn the volume and tone pots fully clockwise (on full).

5) Bar at the 12th fret and strum.

6) You will probably "bottom out" ... so bring each side down a 1/2 turn.

7) Strum again

Repeat until you stop bottoming out ...

9) Put the bar on string 1 (treble string) at fret 15. Normal playing "pressure".

10) Play this string ... You should hear an "unpleasant harsh treble sound" ... if not you have gone too far down ... bring it back up till you get those wierd harsh overtones.

11) Now bring it down ... till they stop and that string produces a powerful yet clean signal.

12) Do the same for string 6 ... except keep it barred at fret 12.

There is your "12 step program" .. ha, ha.

Looking under ... you should be about 1/3 from the pole pieces and 2/3 from the underside of the magnets.

This is your most powerfull, harmonic ladden ZONE.

Folks that go 1/2 way between the mags and the bobbin are not taking full advantage of this pickup.

Adjust the vol/tone to you preference ... and ENJOY !!!"

That worked on my B6D

Bill Creller · Post by **Bill Creller** » 16 Nov 2014 1:09 pm

OK John ! Very detailed procedure

Thanks for elaborating !

There is nothing quite like a bakelite.....

Kekoa Blanchet · Post by **Kekoa Blanchet** » 16 Nov 2014 6:32 pm

John (and Rick), thanks for the setup procedure!

In steps 6 and 8, what does "bottoming out" mean?

John Limbach · Post by **John Limbach** » 16 Nov 2014 6:42 pm

I assume it means that the vibrating strings hit the bobbin. By all means thank Rick, its the procedure he posted on his website. I hope he doesn't mind me passing it along.