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motor oil on changer system

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 4:56 am
by Dale Kath
I have great respect for the professional who advised this method, but I wondered if any others have utilized this method of lubricating the changer system. the method involves pouring sae motor oil or 10w30 motor oil liberally into the changers, letting it set overnight and then wiping off excess oil. Done once a year. I have heard of applying light sewing oil to the changers but this takes it to another level. I know a lot of you will know who I am referring to, and I sincerely mean no disrespect to this friendly PSG expert. before I set the newspapers down and start pouring motor oil on my psg, I thought it wouldn't hurt to get a few opinions.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:19 am
by Mike DiAlesandro
Dale, I think it depends on whether you plan on doing a lot of winter driving... :D

oil

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:29 am
by Doug Palmer
Motor oil might be a little too heavy for a changer. I would use a lighter oil.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:30 am
by Lane Gray
I believe Paul Franklin Sr recommends motor oil.
I cannot believe that he would advocate liberal use.
Oil where it doesn't need to be just attracts dust, dirt and grime.
A DROP per finger once a year is adequate.

motor oil

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:31 am
by Dale Kath
Haw Mike! I am about to put on some new Jagwire strings like you suggested, but wanted to do a little cleanup on the beauty of a Carter you sold me. So it sounds like you do not recommend this method. thanks for the input Mike!
Dale :D

motor oil on changer system

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:41 am
by Dale Kath
I believe the professional applied it liberally to lubricate the whole changer system, top and bottom and in between the fingers. it might be a little excessive. You have to believe it will continue to drip for quite awhile. that's a lot of newspapers!

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 7:23 am
by Alvin Douglas
I am using G96 gun oil. Used it on guns years ago and really liked it. Seems to be doing the job on my PSG.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 7:33 am
by Alan Brookes
Has anyome tried Vaseline to lubricate joints? it stays put instead of running about.

By the way, I found out to my cost years ago that if you use motor oil to lubricate model rsilroad parts it eats its way into plastics. :eek:

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 8:09 am
by b0b
This is the method recommended by Al Brisco in his "Care and Feeding" DVD. I have no doubt that it works well, but Mrs. Lee likes her carpet spotless. :whoa:

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 8:16 am
by Jack Ritter
Jeff Newman recommended straight 30w non detergent. I have been using sewing machine oil, sparingly. Jack

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 9:33 am
by Richard Sinkler
Alan Brookes wrote:Has anyome tried Vaseline to lubricate joints? it stays put instead of running about.

By the way, I found out to my cost years ago that if you use motor oil to lubricate model rsilroad parts it eats its way into plastics. :eek:
Try getting that down into the changer fingers.

This what I use and what Carter sold me. It has a long spout the pulls out so you can get into those hard to reach places in the changer. I recently started using an insulin syringe ( I have Diabetes, so have access to them) and the work out great, and it's easier to control the amount of oil applied.

CLICK HERE

motor oil on changer system

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 9:43 am
by Dale Kath
Yes bOb, Al is the professional where I got the idea from, his video. He slathered it on pretty thick. I bought a 4X2 slat board from Home Depot that fits perfectly under my guitar, and so far has saved my carpet from a few spots. good support too.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 9:47 am
by Richard Sinkler
I absolutely NEVER would just pour any oil over the changer like that. As it is, just putting a drop or two is fine. You can get that into the same place you do by pouring oil over it.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 10:17 am
by Edward Rhea
Singer sewing-machine oil here, too.
When I first started playing my Marlen, I had "black oil residue" coming from the changer. I think lubing it to play it, before tearing it down and cleaning, broke loose a tremendous amount of muck. I've no idea what oil was used with the previous owner? All of the crosshafts and aluminium hardware were gold in color. Turned out to be coated in nicotine. Once cleaned, everything was freed up and back to a silver, and it ceased to produce the muck.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 10:39 am
by Mitchell Smithey
We used to use non detergent 30 mixed 50/50 with STP. That is Bud Carter's mix for the changer scissors and changer shaft. Machine oil for everything else.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 11:29 am
by Kenneth Kotsay
Been using sewing machine oil for years.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 11:57 am
by Robert Parent
Standard motor oil contains cleaning detergent which would not be good. A light weight non-detergent oil would be much better (FWIW, that is what sewing machine oil is). Auto transmission fluid works fine too, just avoid getting it on your guitar's finish.

I prefer Tri-Flo and have been using it for years. It contains a small amount of teflon.

Robert

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 12:39 pm
by Donny Hinson
A little oil (a few drops) once a year is all that's needed. Slathering the changer may do little good, except that it will help prevent rust and oxidation. Sure, it will attract dust, but that dust really doesn't hurt anything. I'm not a fan of teflon-based oils because I don't feel they're beneficial. Believe me, if they were as great as a lot of people here try to tell you they are, auto manufacturers would be jumping all over them. I also see no need for turbine oils, which were designed for high speed and high heat. (Neither of which are encountered, even whe Doug Jernigan is playing.) :lol:

Add a couple of drops of oil once a year between each finger, and go on playing. Fretting overly about simple stuff like this does nothing but make people thing you're weird, and we already get enough of that from just playing this damned contraption. :\

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 1:00 pm
by Dale Rottacker
Anyone ever use this...this is like miracle oil with the guys that use it where I work...this seems to get in places some other oil won’t...and it smells really good too!!!... :D :lol: :D BTW sorry it’s sooooo big

Image

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 2:21 pm
by Johan Jansen

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 2:41 pm
by Richard Sinkler
Donny, the turbine oil is what Carter sold me. My ex-wife obviously got custody of it in the divorce. :lol: It is cheap and can be found at most ACE hardware stores.

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 3:38 pm
by Jerry Van Hoose
I've used, "General Purpose Lubricating Oil" with a precision oiler, for many years on my Derby's and now, my Show Pro with excellent results. It can be found at most hobby shops.
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Posted: 14 Sep 2014 5:46 pm
by Lee Dassow
Don Fritche, Owner of BMI, said he uses STP on the
Changer fingers of his new steels. When He rebuilt
my S-10 I assume that's what was on there very sparingly. I generally use Rem oil on my other two. it has Teflon in it. You can get it at Walmart. Never had a problem. Tennessee Lee

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 6:06 pm
by John Billings
I won't use anything that stays wet, liquid. Attracts and holds too much dust and airborne grime. I've cleaned too many filthy changers. Shag carpets on stages, never vacuumed, very dusty. 6 nights a week, and stuff gets dirty!

Posted: 14 Sep 2014 7:04 pm
by Alan Brookes
Richard Sinkler wrote:...I recently started using an insulin syringe ... and the work out great...
Well be sure you don't mix the syringes up, Richard, and inject yourself with machine oil. It's not a good way to lubricate your joints and it won't keep your glucose level down. :lol: :lol: :lol: