LKR won't lower 4 string enough on shobud pro II

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

When I turn my tuning peg for Lkr it will go almost low enough and then if I turn it more it begins to put pressure against it and won't release back up to the E all the way. When I back the bolt out it begins to raise the string whether I have pressure on the lever or not. Tightening the tension screw/spring to max doesn't help. If I tune low and match the lowered tone first and then tune my lkl to I can't get it to equalize out for the E to be on (stays flat) and any adjustment will keep it from lowering again. I even attempted to adjust the stop screw that keeps the lever from going too far. I had it to where 8 was a whole tone lower and 4 still wasn't lowering all the way to a half tone lower. Help!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

It's overtuned, you said that the tuning rod has an effect on the open note: this should never be the case
Back that change off til you can barely hear the lever move the string.
Then retune the E. NOW tune the lever. All should be well.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

Ok I back the change off til it barely moves the string. Tune 4 to E, press lever , tune to it and it becomes low enough but it drops my E note flat when released. If I tune my e note higher the lower is now not low enough. The raise to f will be in tune when the E is in tune, but will be flat if the e is flat, which the latter is what just happened, and if I raise the f raise it does nothing to the e note.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Is the F lever (or C pedal) also overtuned?
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

I tried detuning all raise/lowers, tuning the string and then retuning the raise/lowers and same issue. Also, no matter how far I move the stop bolt it won't allow the string to bend lower. At certain points the lever feels stiff and like it doesn't really want to move or that there is too much pressure on it.

I have literally tried every combination of twist this and then twist that that I can think of.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Stop bolt?
When did the changer last get a drop of oil, or your lube of choice? Have you watched the fingers move? I'm betting you can see the wrong finger move.
You may also have the wrong tension on the return spring, if it's adjustable. Two weak or too strong, and things are easily unbalanced.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Mark,

It sounds like your lever doesn't have enough travel to lower the string. Look underneath the guitar. Activate the knee lever and you will see where the lever is physically stopped by an adjustable screw. Back the screw out a couple of turns, then try your lower adjustment again with the method Lane described.

There are different stops for Right moving or left moving levers, as well as for levers that connect to a long linkage. The typical left and right type stops are indicated below.... red for right green for left.

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

By the way, these stops don't usually need to be adjusted unless you have changed string gauges or have switched brand/composition.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Mike, may I point out this bit?

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Good suggestion Lane. That's a cause of problems we see on here.

The first thing I think we need to ask is, what could make this problem just appear out of no where. What might have happened that caused this, like putting the wrong gauge string on, a broken string and the ball just stays in the changer. I don't see how having to increase the travel, when no change has been made to the actual string, is needed. I am no expert, but I just don't see the logic behind that adjustment.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Ahhhhh, missed the part about the travel adjustment already being checked.

It is probably something restricting changer travel, as suggested.

Richard, the travel adjustment was a likely culprit since standard overturning fixes didn't work, and we didn't know if there was a string gauge change issue.

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

The strings werent changed, but I hadn't played it in a bit and the humidity had caused it to go out of tune. Just all of a sudden it doesn't want to go down

Turned it over and when I moved the lever the location of the Tough spot was revealed. The eyelet that's screwed to the guitar that holds the thick bolt that the rod pullers are mounted was grinding and had causes so much metal to grind down it was keeping the lever from returning to neutral position. I loosened the screws and the rods almost let out a sigh of relief. Slid the piece as far away from the hardware as possible and tightened down. Now it's returning to neutral. Added a little oil and that smoothed out the remaining grinding noise.

Now to tune it. Hopefully it works!

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

Tuned and sounding beautiful as ever! Thanks for the help. I just needed to flip her belly side up for a few minutes. Haha

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Mark,

Grinding wear like that is not a normal condition, and should be addressed.

There shouldn't be any thread on that end of the pull rod. You can make a new rod from some stainless steel welding rod, or order some rods from one of the many vendors that are on the Forum, like James Morehead, or Michael Yahl at PSG parts.com

Are all of the rods like that?

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

It was the L shaped hardware attached to that bolt, not the bolt itself. The hardware that hits the stop screw was grinding side by side against the piece screwed into the wood that holds the bolt in place.

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

The rods are threaded like that on the a few of them. Both on Lkl2, Lkr, and b pedal, and one each on lkl, rkr and rkl . It's how they adjust. They actually screw in instead of adjusting a spring. The guitar was built by Paul Franklin. ask him. Haha. All the rest are blunt ended that have the springtype adjuster.

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Odd about the threaded rod.... I've seen a whole lot of Sho~Buds, but I've never seen that. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Me either Mike. Paul Franklin Sr. May have built or inspected that guitar before it left the factory, but I'll bet a dollar that it didn't leave the factory with those threaded rods.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.

Mark Nix · From: Arkansas, USA

Here's a thread with a little more info on the guitar.

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=243620&highlight=

Maybe when it was switched from day setup? Or possibly when it was returned to the store by tommy these were there? Though it's been nearly 40 years since either Paul or Tommy White have seen it, maybe they would remember the threading? More likely Paul since he build them and would have been seeing and using the hardware more often.

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