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Lowering compensators on Zum ?

Posted: 19 Dec 2002 7:27 am
by Dag Wolf
I have a mid - 80`s Zum which needs compensators on most strings that is both lowered and raised.
However I also had a - 96 Zum that didn`t have compensators and didn`t need compensators at all - how come?

Have Bruce come up with a balance thing on the changer or something that take care of this wellknown problem?

Dag

Posted: 19 Dec 2002 1:25 pm
by Ricky Davis
The pivot point in the changer has changed since then.....and that is the main reason of histerics problem with raise and lowering the same string and it going and coming back...along with some other design features in the changer that has changed.....but I can go on for 3 days on that.....but gotta go to corpus for a gig.
Ricky

Posted: 19 Dec 2002 4:15 pm
by Lee Baucum
Ricky - I hope you have time for some shrimp at Water Street!

Lee

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Lee, from South Texas
Down On The Rio Grande


Posted: 19 Dec 2002 7:58 pm
by Donny Hinson
Dag, a lot of factors cause the hysteresis problem on steels. By far, manufacturers have discovered in the past decade that <u>most</u> of the problem is caused by friction at the nut of the guitar. Any friction here causes different string tensions on each side of the nut, and these "unequaled" tensions aren't relieved or reversed until an opposing (opposite-change) pull is made.

Here's some things <u>you</u> can do to minimize the problem...

1.) Make sure all your strings are pulling as straight as possible. When you install them, do so winding towards the inside or outside of the key...whichever keeps the string in as straight a line as possible (looking down from directly over the string). This will minimize side loads on the rollers, and thereby ease the friction between the roller and the axle-supports at the nut.

2.) Removing and polishing the roller axle (with a metal polishing compound or crocus-cloth) until it has a "mirror-like" finish. This will help eliminate the friction between the roller and the shaft.

3.) Keeping the rollers lubricated properly. Use a light oil, and oil the rollers (where they meet the axle) at least once a month. If you get too much oil on the roller nut assy, simple "wick" it off with a Kleenex, or piece of tissue. (Powdered, or flaked graphite also works well in this application, but is messier and harder to apply.)

4.) Making sure you turn the rollers. Spin them a few times every time you change strings. This will make sure they don't wear in the same place (which will be indicated by an "egged" or ovaled hole). It will also alert you to any binding which may be caused by damage, foreign matter, or lack of lubrication.

Utilizing these 4 procedures can significantly reduce the hysteresis problem with an older steel, and help somewhat, on newer steels as well. <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 19 December 2002 at 07:59 PM.]</p></FONT>

Posted: 19 Dec 2002 9:06 pm
by Bobby Boggs
What Donny said. Image

Posted: 20 Dec 2002 1:35 am
by Martin Weenick
I had a problem with some of my rollers sticking on my LeGrande III, what I found was when the shaft holes were drilled into the rollers, where the drill bit came out the bottom it left a raised and jagged edge around the drill hole. I sanded these ridges off smooth and that fixed the problem. The ragged edges were dragging on the sides of the roller houseing.

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Martin W. Emmons LG III 3/5 Peavy 1000

Posted: 20 Dec 2002 1:06 pm
by Ricky Davis
What Ricky said.... Image Image