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Does anyone use special tools to adjust P/P guitars?

Posted: 28 Oct 2002 3:06 pm
by Bill Moore
Adjusting a P/P seems a little awkward, you push a pedal, observe, then release the pedal and make an adjustment. Since I've had this guitar, I've needed to adjust several things to get it working right. Most of the time, it was a matter of trial and error, make an adjustment, test it, then do it again till you get it right It occurred to me that the problem is that you can't actually observe the position of the moving parts while the adjustments are made. You push a pedal, observe what's happening, release it and make a change based on an estimate of what's needed.

Has anyone designed any special tools to help make adjustments on the P/P guitars? A couple of things come to mind: what about a clamping device to pull the lower springs and hold them while the collar is tightened? How about something that would hold the bellcranks or changer levers in position, which would allow you to make accurate adjustments the first try.

I realize that an experienced mechanic is able to make educated guesses about what adjustments need to be made, but I'm new at this and I'd like to use the easiest and most efficient method of doing things. Perhaps the original factory assembler's used special tools or gauges to get the job do quickly? Anyway, I'd like to hear anyone's thoughts or experiences on this subject.


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Bill Moore...
my steel guitar web page



Posted: 28 Oct 2002 6:42 pm
by Glenn Austin
4 Tools are needed. 7/64 and a 5/64 Bondhus Ball drivers (These are hex keys with a screwdriver handle)very handy because they can be used on an angle. Snap ring pliers and a pair of long nose pliers. Thats really all you need.

Posted: 29 Oct 2002 3:09 pm
by John Lacey
For the bellcrank allens, find some longer ones to access the lowers.

Posted: 30 Oct 2002 7:00 am
by Larry Bell
Glenn pretty much summed it up. The main tool is the Allen wrench, but when you need the snap ring pliers there's nothing else that will do the job as well on those swivels. I use my Dremel with a cutting wheel to make various shank lengths -- usually on the short side of the wrench. Comes in handy getting into tight spots. A small pair of vise grips also helps hold the wrenches when you need more torque. I also use the vise grips to stretch out the return springs. I mentioned a Dremel -- great tool for resurfacing changer fingers (be careful), polishing little 'boo-boos'and other tasks.

I don't really make much of a distinction between the tools I use to work on all pull guitars vs push pulls. Just different PARTS. I do keep a box of Emmons/pp parts and another with all-pull parts separate.

just some thoughts . . .

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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2000 Fessenden S-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro

Posted: 30 Oct 2002 9:07 am
by Pete Burak
I bought an "L" shaped phillips head to remove a cross rod (to add a bell crank). Really made the job easy.

Posted: 31 Oct 2002 6:28 pm
by Lee Baucum
Good point, Pete. And don't forget. When you pull out that cross rod, get ready to catch the little spring that is in the hole.

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Lee, from South Texas
Down On The Rio Grande