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Author Topic:  Fessenden questions...
Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 11:12 am    
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I am seriously consideringbuying a very clean, very nice fessy S10..
Never played one. Never saw one close up.. just pics.. Looks like a pretty standard "modern" pull system thats easily worked on, but I am not certain.
perhaps i could get some insight from owners, or former owners here.
I would have to do a lot of reconfiguring/re rodding real quick as my copedent is all ass backwards and is right out of 1972...
Are they pretty straightforward to work on??..
I know parts are readily available, ..
Any other issues I should be aware of??... any help is appreciated... bob
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I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!

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David Nugent

 

From:
Gum Spring, Va.
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 12:04 pm    
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Bob...The Fessensen guitars that I have owned utilized what I refer to as "comb" style bellcranks (open slots,no clips or tiny cotter pins to contend with, pullrods are held in place by string tension on the fingers) which make copedant changes rather quick and simple. The only drawback to this system that I have found was that when changing strings, best to do one at a time otherwise if all the tension is released, the rods tend to fall out of the bellcranks which can prove annoying.
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Jim Pitman

 

From:
Waterbury Ctr. VT 05677 USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 12:56 pm    
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I've owned a S12 Fessy for quite a while. They are great, well toned, resonant guitars. Jerry lives in the next town over and we have collaborated on a few things concerning the guitar. In fact he patented that puller and I helped him write the patent. It's a stamping which makes it cheap to produce in high volume. Considering there are typically about 40 of them per guitar the cost savings is substantial and gets passed onto the customer. For the price of a new Fessy, I don't think you can do better.
I've experienced what David is talking about concerning the rod falling out during string change. There's a quick/cheap solution.
While you are re-rodding and have the nuts off the rods, slide a short piece of rubber tubing with an inner diameter slightly smaller than the rod diameter onto each rod. It's final position should be close to the bell crank end, just before the jog in the rod leaving enough space for the puller. The puller is between the rubber tubing and the jog. After you have everything tuned up and you are happy with the fulcrum points you have chosen on the pullers, inch the rubber tubing up some more until it just touches the puller. This tubing will prevent the rods from coming out of the slots yet allow freedom of motion.
Tubing - 1/4" outside diameter and < 1/8" inside diameter, soft pliable type so it grips the rod yet you can still move it with enough force.
Even if you don't do this, it happens infrequently. Just keep your feet off the pedals while there's no string tension.
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Mitch Ellis

 

From:
Collins, Mississippi USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 4:46 pm    
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Jim Pitman wrote:

Even if you don't do this, it happens infrequently. Just keep your feet off the pedals while there's no string tension.


I agree. I have a SD10 Fessenden that I've had for 16 years. Although I've played a D10 Zum for the last 10 years, The Fessenden got HEAVY use for 6 years. I changed the strings once a month, removing all ten at the same time, and never once did a rod fall off. Over the years, I have gotten many complements about the tone. There have been no tuning issues with it and it plays comfortably ( although I did do some custom work to the floor pedals and knee levers) I am very satisfied with it and plan on keeping it. Smile

Mitch
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Mitch Ellis

 

From:
Collins, Mississippi USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 4:55 pm     Re: Fessenden questions...
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Bob Carlucci wrote:
Looks like a pretty standard "modern" pull system thats easily worked on,
Are they pretty straightforward to work on??..

Any other issues I should be aware of??bob


First sentence, Yes
Second sentence, Yes. No unnecessary clutter.
Third sentence, Not that I'm aware of.

Mitch
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 5:49 pm    
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I bought my S10 new from Jerry in 2006 and love it.
It is modern in fit and feel. I like the sound a lot, though it is quite different from the older guitars I have owned.

Now that I have two D10 Buds, the Fessy is my "grab-n-go" guitar for jams and for gig where the I know I won't need any C6. I have been amazed at how stable it remains from gig to gig, without having it set up at home for tweaking.

I have experienced the rod drop while changing strings, but only once or twice in eight years, and this was my only axe for about six years. As others have said, just keep your feet and legs away from the pedal and knees while your changing strings and you'll be fine.

Another known issue concerns the slack in the cross shafts. For whatever reason they seem to have more side-to-side play than other all-pull steels. If you don't regulate the humidity in your house (or room) well, they can require some adjusting at changes of season. This an easy operation; you'll get it as soon as you look at the guitar.

Dan
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 28 Apr 2014 6:02 pm    
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Dan Beller-McKenna wrote:
I bought my S10 new from Jerry in 2006 and love it.
It is modern in fit and feel. I like the sound a lot, though it is quite different from the older guitars I have owned.

Now that I have two D10 Buds, the Fessy is my "grab-n-go" guitar for jams and for gig where the I know I won't need any C6. I have been amazed at how stable it remains from gig to gig, without having it set up at home for tweaking.

I have experienced the rod drop while changing strings, but only once or twice in eight years, and this was my only axe for about six years. As others have said, just keep your feet and legs away from the pedal and knees while your changing strings and you'll be fine.

Another known issue concerns the slack in the cross shafts. For whatever reason they seem to have more side-to-side play than other all-pull steels. If you don't regulate the humidity in your house (or room) well, they can require some adjusting at changes of season. This an easy operation; you'll get it as soon as you look at the guitar.

Dan


Dan, you have an email on the way.. bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!

no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
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Ed Kelly

 

From:
Queensbury, New York, USA
Post  Posted 29 Apr 2014 3:04 am     Fessie
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Great axe! I play one now, played one 20 years ago, get a Fessie and A steel king amp and you will never look back!!!!
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John Macy

 

From:
Rockport TX/Denver CO
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2014 8:26 pm    
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Been playing Fessendens since 1998 and could not be happier....
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John Macy
Rockport, TX
Engineer/Producer/Steel Guitar
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Kevin Hatton

 

From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
Post  Posted 30 Apr 2014 10:03 pm    
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One of the best sounding guitars out there.
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Stephen Kuester

 

From:
Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 1 May 2014 4:09 am    
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I have the Fessenden s10 and I love it. Got it new a little over a year ago.

Quite often you have to sacrifice quality for practicality--not with this guitar. It's light, but not flimsy. It plays great, looks great, sounds great. You can't go wrong with this guitar.
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 1 May 2014 3:44 pm    
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Glad so many guys like them.. I have made a deal on a very clean s10 w/ 4 and 5... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!

no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 1 May 2014 5:19 pm    
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Congratulations on the new guitar!! I knew you would buy another one!! I bet it will be almost as good as my new ShoBud!! Just kidding! It looks great! Enjoy!
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1967 Emmons Bolt On, 1995 Mullen PRP 3x5,Nashville 112, JOYO Digital Delay, Goodrich Volume Pedal, Livesteel Strings
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