The Steel Guitar Forum

I originally posted this question in Bernie's thread but thought better of it....forum etiquette, and all that.....

Many references were made to "lube" this or that to take care of an unwanted pedal sound. In relation to that, what lubricant, oil or whatever is typically used on a PSG?

Where and how often is it applied, if you have time to answer all this? More ignorant newbie questions.........

Got it! Thanks, Tony!

For all the talk of high-end and alternate lubes, Zum and Franklin use light machine oil (like sewing machine or 3 in 1)and a light motor oil (I forgot to ask the grade/weight), respectively. Since cheap stuff found at O'Reilly works for two of the best guitars, I am not convinced the advantages of the others are better enough. That said, I did buy a bottle of Dupont's alternative to liquid Tri-Flow, and it worked well (and was cheaper than Tri-Flow)

Not every manufacturer is an expert in lubes. I've had two brand new guitars that were a bit stiff and had some binding. I think they were both dry and had no detectable lube. Applying Tri_Flo made them work super easy. Of course applying ANY lube to a dry guitar helps but I've used Tri-Flow all over the house and even over time it does not seem to attract dirt and sludge up.

Sure, Cutshaw. Pour logic all over everything.

Lane, I like your sense of humor.



Oh.....and +1 for TriFlow......the "wet" one.

Another newbie question, expanding the original a bit (hopefully, this isn't in bad form?)
I completed disassembling and cleaning of my E9 changer, and have been reading the numerous threads concerning lubrication. My question is have any of you experienced a break-down on nylon/plastic parts from prolonged contact with petroleum-based lubricants?

If you are referring to nylon bushings and the like, they do not need lube, they are the lube...

Scott, yes I was, in part. But also concerning the nylon spacers between the fingers of the changers.

Nylon will tend to swell a bit with lube, so I bet they degrade a bit too.

Reading through the numerous threads, it looks like the majority of folks prefer the dry lube, Tri-Flow. I'll give it a try (right after I clean off all of the Singer sewing machine oil I lubed it with already! ) Thank you Lane.

FYI, here's a pic of what you want. Whether it's the spray can, or the bottle (like in the pic) they will both say the same thing. I prefer the bottle because it comes with a tiny straw for precise lube application.

On tap, in the can, or in the bottle.. bartender get me a dose of Tri-Flow............

I listen to Marcia Campbell's all-night truckers' show on WSM sometimes, and one of her sponsors is Motor-Kote....a hyper-lubricant you add to oil, or use as is. The jury is still out, as I just started using it experimentally. It appears to work better than gun oil which surprises me. What's also neat about the stuff is that it can be mixed WITH the gun oil to enhance its properties. It can be found at all Walmart stores on a bottom shelf in the automotive section. I paid 27 bucks for a quart...sounds bad, but in checking the comparable price of most gun oils per ounce, Motor-Kote is definitely cheaper. Buy a quart and divide it up among fellow steel players....or put the rest in your car engine.
PRR

I wasn't able to find any Tri-Flow available in Leavenworth, Kansas. So I went out on a limb and tried a substitute dry-lube, teflon-based gun oil - Remington Rem- Drilube



So far, it seems to be working fine. And I like the fact that the dry nature of it doesn't seem to attract dust/lint/crud. Hopefully, there won't be some unforeseen (by me), disastrous consequence that destroys my changer and dooms me to eternal regret. Just kidding.

After several years in the case, I set up an Emmons LeGrande II. The changer was quite sticky. I contacted another steeler about the problem and he recommended "Break Free". It is a gun oil and I had to go to a sporting goods store to find it but it sure took care of the sticking problem.

BOB,

Did You Read The Danger Notice On The Spray Can?

"EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE"

Roger,
Thanks, good looking out! That might explain my missing eyebrows. I wondered what that flash of light was that I saw while lubing the changer by candle-light.
I'm just glad I didn't swallow any of it.
I only tasted it. Tasted even better than Break Free. Smells nicer too.

Boe-shield T-9

Zoom spout highly refined turbine oil works great. It has a retractable spout that you can direct the flow in hard to get places. I have used this for years. Mullen carried this at one time. You can also get it at Ace Hardware.

The solvents and diluents are flammable....the remaining lubricant is not. TFE and PTFE are one of the only common polymers that don't have a melting point which is why you'll never see a molded part made of Teflon. However, when used as an additive in another polymer, it will flow....Teflon-filled Delrin and Teflon-filled nylon are just two common examples of adding Teflon to another resin. When Teflon does reach what would be its melting point, it burns. So does PVC and CPVC better known as vinyl. Fireproof Christmas trees and decorations are made of this stuff. You can hold a flame to it and it will burn. Remove the source and the flame goes out immediately.
PRR

In the last 25 years I lubed steel maybe twice, and didn't make any difference , only thing it did do, was helping the dust to stick better to my guitar... I never lube any of my guitars...
Db