a question about volume pedals

Karlis Abolins · Post by **Karlis Abolins** » 21 Aug 2002 3:00 pm

Do any of the volume pedals on the market have an adjustable "pot"? On the pedal I had in the 70's, I could set the bottom point on the pot so that it would always have a fixed amount of volume and then I could add more for that long sustain. I was always able to come back to the same starting volume for the next note. I have a new Goodrich 2A volume pedal that goes cleanly from off to full but I am having a heck of a time coming back to the same starting point.

Karlis

Jeff Peterson · Post by **Jeff Peterson** » 21 Aug 2002 3:21 pm

It can have any starting point you want....easily adjustable.

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 21 Aug 2002 5:32 pm

My own suggestion ('course, I'm a "nobody") is to just practice until you learn how to use the pedal properly! Sure, you can "fix" or modify the pedal to operate in many fashions. But the first time you try to play someone else's rig...you'll be sorry you did. And, when they sit down to yours, the first thing they'll ask is "What's wrong with your pedal?" I wouldn't recommend using any sort of "crutch" (bridged pots, the wood block on the back of the pedal, the variable tapers, or different pots, etc.), <u>unless</i> you have some sort of a physical handicap.

jim milewski · Post by **jim milewski** » 21 Aug 2002 8:41 pm

I added a small resistor (20 kohm) to the leg of the pot thats gounded, so I have some signal when I'm backed off and still have maximum throw of total pedal travel, it does not affect the taper, the resistor is in series from the pot leg to the ground

Karlis Abolins · Post by **Karlis Abolins** » 22 Aug 2002 5:35 am

The volume pedal I have uses a light beam instead of a pot. I have taken it apart to see if I could adjust the end point but have been unable to do so.
The reason this is a problem is that I had polio as a child and my right ankle does not have a lot of control. I can push forward with my toes but pulling back is the problem. I need to have some end point when I stomp my heel.

Karlis

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 22 Aug 2002 8:52 am

Karlis, in that case, your pedal could be modified to help you. It's not as easy with light-beam pedals, but it can still be done with modifications to the "shading" vane, or movement of the light source. A good music store should have a tech (with some mechanical aptitude) that can do this.

Jim Smith · Post by **Jim Smith** » 22 Aug 2002 9:03 am

How about sticking a block of wood or rubber inside the back of the pedal to shorten the stroke and control how much volume is left when you push it off? You could even get fancy and install a locking setscrew instead so you could adjust it as you wish.

Pete Ballard · Post by **Pete Ballard** » 22 Aug 2002 9:25 am

Karlis -
I don't know if any other steel players do this, but when I want to maintain a steady volume, say for uptempo songs, I slide my right foot back so that the heel of my boot rests on the floor. Doing this keeps the volume pedal about halfway open and leaves plenty of throw left if needed. I usually wear cowboy boots and use a Goodrich L120, so the height of the heel and the height of the pedal match up nicely. This is probably considered "bad" technique, but it works for me.

Karlis Abolins · Post by **Karlis Abolins** » 22 Aug 2002 9:58 am

Donny, Thank you for the suggestion. I think your approach has a lot of merit. I would like to keep a large range of travel.
Pete, I may have to resort to your suggestion if I can't get the pedal modified. This option limits the travel of the pedal but may be acceptable.
Thank you again.

Karlis

Martin Weenick · Post by **Martin Weenick** » 22 Aug 2002 11:46 pm

Karlis, is there some way you can hook a return spring to the back of your pedal ? It might do away with having to stomp the pedal back to the off position. That way you would only have to press forward. Just a suggestion.

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Martin W. Emmons LG III 3/5 Peavy 1000

Karlis Abolins · Post by **Karlis Abolins** » 23 Aug 2002 5:23 am

Martin, I mounted a return spring in the pedal I had in the 70's. It helped some but the adjustable pot was the best part.

Karlis

Jon Light · Post by **Jon Light** » 23 Aug 2002 5:44 am

Probably not what you want to hear but I don't think you have the right pedal for what you are trying to do (unless there's something in the circuitry that Goodrich can customize for you---not a bad idea to talk to them and see). But this is an expensive unit to be experimenting with and without a pot you lose some of the more inventive options involving changing pot value, changing taper, etc. that I bet could get the job done on a conventional pot pedal.

Jerry Roller · Post by **Jerry Roller** » 23 Aug 2002 7:31 am

Karlis, I may not completely understand your problem but would it be helpful to have the pedal springloaded where when you release forward pressure it would return to off position? I know the Hilton is an expensive route to take but actually well worth the price just for the improvement in your sound and it is completely adjustable underneath.
Jerry

Karlis Abolins · Post by **Karlis Abolins** » 23 Aug 2002 9:00 am

Jerry, Thanks for the recommendation about the Hilton pedal. I went to the web site and am very impressed by the features. It has the features I am looking for in the adjustable start point and adjustable end-volume. I will probably go that route if I can't resolve my problems with the Goodrich. The Goodrich is an excellent pedal but it lacks the adjustability that I need.

Karlis