The Steel Guitar Forum

Aloha Kakou!
I'm hoping the good folks here have some answers for me. I am traveling to Japan for gigs later this Spring, and due to restrictions, cannot take my Fender D6. But I can take my modified Chandler which would work fine. BUT...the Chandler has no legs, which I prefer. So, how hard is it to put on a set of legs? I would imagine there is some routing involved. Correct? If I was to do this, can I take the legs/sockets from the Fender and use those?

I know I could use an X Stand, but I will be both standing and sitting...and I always prefer legs. Any thoughts and/or assistance is most appreciated!

Mahalo!

If you plan to use the typical round leg sockets sold by forum member sill music, they are installed using a 1 1/4 Forstner drill bit, available at most home centers or tool supply outlets.

You can use a hand drill or drill press, the depth is easy to determine with one of the sockets in hand to test while drilling. After -- you simply use wood screws, also available at the home center, we prefer oval head Stainless steel.

Orient the direction of the leg spread by rotating the sockets to your desired positions.

Hope this helps you.

I just re-read the original post - The Fender Legs have a different thread count, There is a builder that makes the Flanges (sockets) in that thread , But I am not certain of his name , I think it might be Stroud.

So far as Ray's question I also have never experienced any tone variation of significance. It is a good eye-deer to not drill through the front of the instrument.

How might all that drilling around in the body plus the insertion of screws affect the TONE?

I'd be shocked if you could notice a difference. The removal of wood should be negligible compared to the overall mass of the body and screws shouldn't matter at all if they are screwed in tightly. Having the legs attached would add mass to the whole thing, and THAT could matter somewhat, but I doubt very much if it would be bad.

Does anyone know if I can just grab the legs off of my Fender for this?

You can use the Fender legs if you install the right leg flanges. The fender leg flanges are routed into the body of the guitar so you will need a large diameter forstner bit. I've done it on some guitars and it's really not a big deal.
Here's an example:

Now I won't be doing this, but we have carpenters on board my ship who can do this I'm sure. So would I want to take out the leg flanges and measure the depth that they were installed too? Then have the carpenters do the routing?

If you want to recess the leg flanges so they are flush with the bottom of the body, you can rout a 3" diameter 1/4" deep circle for each one, and drill the center 1-1/4" hole 1/4" deeper than for a surface mount. Be very careful in making certain you won't be drilling or routing into some important part, such as wiring, bolts, screws, your finger, etc..
Also, the design of the flanges from Sill Supply allows for them to be surface mounted upside down. You would only need to drill three screw holes per flange, with no routing involved. This is sturdy and easy to do, but leaves the center, threaded part of the flanges protruding. Makes is uncomfortable as a lap steel, and could keep it from fitting in its case. A lot less invasive to your instrument, though.
Maybe consider just buying a stand?

I'd get the legs from the same place you get the flanges... the new legs are lighter, and if you sell the guitars, the legs can follow the guitars. You can get *very* light legs for the new smaller threads, and the hole to drill will be smaller too.

Watch out for the pickup cavity, especially with the screws.

Check out the line of stands from Deluxe 34. Mine works perfectly. Adjusts for both sitting and standing positions. Can be adapted to fit nearly any lap steel with no modifications to the instrument. Has its own carrying case.

Jack Hanson wrote:Check out the line of stands from Deluxe 34. Mine works perfectly. Adjusts for both sitting and standing positions. Can be adapted to fit nearly any lap steel with no modifications to the instrument. Has its own carrying case.

I agree with Jack. I can't imagine routing holes in my any of my lapsteels...and not just out of concern for tone.

Hey, Dave! Both my Stringmaster and Canopus 8's fit nicely into an overhead on Boeing and Airbus jets. I have had hassles with the gate folks, but, with the new laws about musical instrument carry-ons, there hasn't been problems lately. My cases are thin enough to put luggage on top of them, too, especially soft ones. I'm bringing my Canopus to Oahu and to the Maui festival in April.

Here are some suggestions, useful or otherwise...
[1] Borrow a keyboard stand for the night. Every band has one.
[2] Use an ironing board.
[3] Use a music stand, adjusted so that the flat part is horizontal instead of vertical.
[4] Use a card table.
[5] Lay it across you knees.

Wow!! I can't thank all of you enough for the great responses and suggestions. I think I have decided to go in the Mark Roeder/ Deluxe 34 direction. It seems to be the closest to what I want, and alleviates the problem of entrusting my steel guitar to someone else as far as routing and so forth.

I have been in contact with him, and he was quick to respond, (which I like) and says he will be able to help me out before I leave for Japan. So far so good. Again, many thanks to all who responded!!

Dave

I think I have decided to go in the Mark Roeder/ Deluxe 34 direction.

One of Marks stands is a great way to go!