The Steel Guitar Forum

Hello steelers just wondered if any of you could tell me if the reenforced 011's are any more durable than regular 011's. just
ordered a dozen from Carter and haven't
tried them yet. Also are any of you using
thr Smart String sets that Carter sells.
Guess that's what my new S-10 has on it and
they sound nice. Appreciate any input from
any of you gentlemen. Thanks TJ

I've given up on a better mouse trap. An 0.11 seems to last me about the same time. The last couple of years i've just stuck with SIT's.

Bob.

I bought a dozen of the Ernie Ball 'reinforced' .011s - if anything, they were worse!

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Roger Rettig
Emmons LGIII(8&8), MCI (8&4) and Fender Stringmaster (0&0)

Roger funny you should mention that. When I tried them a few years back, they broke on the opposite end of the reinforced end.

On my guitars, strings have NEVER broken except in one place. And that is right at the top of the changer axle. Until, I bought the reinforced ones. Several of those broke at the key peg before I could get them up to pitch. So I pitched them. ALL of them; in the trash

But what ever floats......

carl

Think about this. If a wire is re enforced, wouldn't that make it harder...and break faster?. When one breakes on mine it's over the changer...where it bends. I feel if one breaks on the tuner shaft, it was more than likly not installed right.

I have played standard guitar as long as I can remember and have never broken a string while playing one.

Bob.

I'm with Bob on this one. I had gone through four reinforced 11's one day just getting them to pitch (all broke at the key head end) and actually switched to a 10 on the third string for a rehearsal. I've recently switched to SIT's which sound great, cost less than the Smart Set, and I haven't any breakage in some six weeks (I know, I need to change them)

Ian

The best reinforced .011 I have found is called a .012! They sound bigger, last longer, most companies carry them (even standard music stores) and are generally the same price as most any other string out there.





2pT



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TheEarlyDays.com

and appearing regularly...
Jimmy Crawford/Russ Hicks... and Buddy Emmons on Bass! aLotOfSpace.com

I've been using George L reinforced .011's on my Carter for the past couple of years and have had absolutely no problems with them. The only .011 I have broken on the guitar was the one that came on the guitar when I bought it.

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Carter D10 9p/10k
Richard Sinkler

Thurlon, Based on similar threads here on the Forum in the past, I think it's safe to say that you'll find steelers who use 10's 10.5's, 11's, 11.5's, 12's, and probably others. I always use a "GHS" reinforced 11 for the 3rd string on my Carter and it works well for me. -- Marc

Terry,

Don't you break more strings when replacing because you're trying to tune a larger string to a very high sound?

Leroy

Moved to "Pedal Steel" section.

Leroy,

No, not really. I have a "sure fire" method of stringing this one that hasn't ever failed. Right after I begin the winding process (usually about two complete winds out of a total of 10-15 winds when finally in tune), "I raise the point nearest the keyhead to a different angle than what would be a more natural or standard method." Instead of allowing the string to rest on the nut-roller while winding, I put my hand under the string on the keyhead end. See here:
Then, while putting enormous stress on the string by pulling the string nearly straight up (horizontally) from the keyhead, and even causing the changer mechanism to move into a "strung position," (from about two full winds of the winding process on) I continue to string it until it gets to the point where I have to pull my hand out from under the string (while under much tension) and finally put the string onto the roller. I believe this "altered angle," as well as "not crossing any winds of the string on the keyhead" greatly increase string life and tone.

[my opinion]



2pT

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TheEarlyDays.com

and appearing regularly...
Jimmy Crawford/Russ Hicks... and Buddy Emmons on Bass! aLotOfSpace.com

There are actually a few more tricks for tuning this little baby too. If you check the mechanism roller end of the guitar, (usually after you break a string) there can be a "burr" left behind where the string was previously wound over it. 600-800 grit wet-dry sandpaper works well if you get this. Then follow it up with steel wool. Nobody said it was easy... but you will notice less breakage on this end if you remove the "burr's" periodically. You can also try moving the string "fractions" from it's old worn position if you are on a gig and can't get the sandpaper and wool right on it. I may think of a few more things that help "keep the strings on."



2pT

------------------
TheEarlyDays.com

and appearing regularly...
Jimmy Crawford/Russ Hicks... and Buddy Emmons on Bass! aLotOfSpace.com

Interesting. I'm wondering why, since broken third strings seem to be the bane of E9 players, that most string manufacturers chose .11's as the gauge for the third string G# rather than .12, though many are kind enough to include a second .11. I recall a George L broucher in which it was suggested trying at .12 for the third right next to an ad for a set of their (his?) strings which came with a .11 at third. What string manufacturers include a .12 as third in their sets? Thanks.

Ian

I PLAY MY GUITAR ALMOST EVERDAY FOR HOURS AND I HAVE FOUND THAT MOST REINFORCED 11'S DO LAST LONGER FOR ME,(MAYBE TWICE AS LONG AS A REGULAR). I HAVE USED GHS, DIADARRIO, AND ERNIE BALL. I ALSO BELIEVE IT DEPENDS ON THE WAY THE GUITAR IS STRUNG ALSO.