The Steel Guitar Forum

To a lot of you guys, this is going to be a dumb question but here it is anyway!

I had a Pro III ('though I sold it on a regrettable impulse), and I'm aware that I couldn't 'split-tune' anything - apart from that, I had (or have) no understanding of the basic Sho-Bud principals, and would appreciate a quick run-down from someone who knows.

I'd really like to get a 'Bud' again, as I think they're the most beautiful steels ever; am I correct in thinking that, mechanically at least, they simply won't accommodate the changes I can get on my LeGrande? I'd also be interested in an overview of the relative merits of Super Pros against Pro Is, IIs and IIIs, etc., etc.....

There's no way I want to replace my LGIII, but I've convinced Susie that a Sho-Bud would be pretty enough just to sit around the house!

Many thanks,

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Roger Rettig
Emmons LGIII(D10), MCI D10 and Fender Stringmaster (triple-8)

<SMALL>am I correct in thinking that, mechanically at least, they simply won't accommodate the changes I can get on my LeGrande?</SMALL>

Maybe you can. How would you like to set it up?

<SMALL>I'm aware that I couldn't 'split-tune' anything</SMALL>

Nevertheless the Sho-Bud will give you something very close to C natural if you raise B a whole step and lower it a half step at the same time. Analysis tells me it should be way sharp but it is not too bad.

<SMALL>relative merits of Super Pros against Pro Is, IIs and IIIs, etc., etc.....</SMALL>

Each guitar sounds different so you have to listen to each one.

Roger, Ronnie Bennet fitted a lever on my Pro 1 lowering the sixth a full tone,and by using the C pedal it raises it a half tone.I have no problems tuning it.Don't know mechanics of it but am sure Ron could tell you.Sorry did not get a chance to speak to you at Newbury to pass on Pat Kelly's regards.

I should, perhaps, amend my thread - I meant that Sho-Buds were, in my eyes anyway, the most aesthetically-pleasing steels out there...

Thanks, Doug - my main requirement is to split-tune the pedal raise on 5th and 10th with the half-step lower. My old ZB shouldn't have been capable of such a change, but, by sheer luck, it was pretty close. My subsequent guitar, the Pro III, wouldn't get near to it. I know I should've just half-pedalled, but it was never as comfortable. When I went to the LeGrandes, it was heaven!

Malcolm - sorry to have missed you, too! It was my first trip 'home' in three years, and it was good to see so many old friends at Newbury.
I don't customarily use that split on the 6th string, 'though it is, finally, on my Emmons - maybe I'll grow into it; it does appear to be a big favourite on E9....

Thanks for the replies!

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Roger Rettig
Emmons LGIII(D10), MCI D10 and Fender Stringmaster (triple-8)


<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Roger Rettig on 19 May 2002 at 12:19 PM.]</p></FONT>

It is possible to tap threads and stick a screw in the right end of a Sho-Bud changer to limit the lowering of a string. So if you want A#,B,C,C# on your B string, you would tune the C with the tuning nut of the lower, and A# with the screw in the changer. That is how Zum and other modern brands do it.

I'm not familiar with the newer Sho-Bud's, but if it has an extra raise hole in the changer on the strings you want to split, you can do it with an extra raise rod. If it does, let me know and I'll tell you how to do it.

I want to thank everybody who replied - some of you also e-mailed me directly.

I'm not in the market for one right now, as I'm off for a three-month gig this Friday, but I wanted to be a little more knowledgable on the subject in case I came face to face with an 'impulse buy' somewhere!

It seems it would be possible for me to get the 'split' that I need, and I appreciate all your input. I just know that there's one out there with my name on it (well, it's actually a couple of other guys' names, but you know what I mean.....) and lots of birds-eye maple!

PS: Ten dollars, Bobbe? That sounds like a deal!

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Roger Rettig
Emmons LGIII(D10), MCI D10 and Fender Stringmaster (triple-8)