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My new Rittenberry SD-10 Vintage X

Posted: 1 Jan 2014 8:10 pm
by Erik Kristiansen
Here are some pics of my new Rittenberry SD-10 I got a few weeks ago. It's a prototype of a model Gary has finished and it will be called the Vintage X.

The Truetone pup and the Koa laminate make it a twang-tone machine and a real beauty! This is my second Ritt SD-10 and I couldn't be more pleased. Gary does excellent work and is a blast to talk to on the phone!
Happy New Year!

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Posted: 1 Jan 2014 8:20 pm
by Bill Dobkins
Nice !

New Vintage Ritt..

Posted: 2 Jan 2014 5:15 am
by Scott Truax
Eric,

NICE guitar !! I heard all about it when I was
talking with Gary a couple weeks ago.

Rittenberry is a top shelf guitar. And, they don't make people any better than Gary.

Enjoy your new guitar; I do mine !!

Scott Truax

Posted: 2 Jan 2014 6:10 am
by Bill Moore
That's a great looking guitar! Gary does really good work!

New Ritt

Posted: 2 Jan 2014 11:15 am
by Jim Hollingsworth
Hi Erik,
Very nice looking guitar. My question is: how does it SOUND compared to your other Ritt? I know Gary was looking for more of a vintage (Franklin???) sound. How would you describe it?

Thanks!

Jim Hollingsworth

Posted: 2 Jan 2014 12:18 pm
by Erik Kristiansen
Hi Jim. I A/B'd my 2 Ritts, and I would have to say it has more of a twang. It still has that rich, throaty tone, but with just a little more twang.

I've only gigged with it once since getting it (acoustic, songwriter guy), so I haven't really gotten to open it up with a band yet. But I tell you what, I can't wait!

Just like mine

Posted: 3 Jan 2014 2:41 am
by Tim Johnson
I have the next one that was built after yours, only mine has the original undercarriage, I am very pleased with mine, couldn't be better.

Posted: 4 Jan 2014 4:45 pm
by Bill Dobkins
I talked to Gary today.He is concerned that someone may think he has copied from the Franlin, not so. Gary has been working on this design for some time. There are in fact similarities from several designs. That's why it's called Vintage.

Posted: 4 Jan 2014 8:46 pm
by John McClung
Erik, in your 2nd photo, pedal 2: what's with the bell crank nearest camera, has just 2 holes on center, and one lower hole way off center? All others have dual rows of holes. Does that connect to another connector on a different crossrod? Do crossrods have a flat side for bell crank stability?

Posted: 5 Jan 2014 8:40 am
by Erik Kristiansen
Bill, I've sent you a private message

Posted: 5 Jan 2014 10:00 am
by Erik Kristiansen
Hi John! I just turned the guitar over to look and that bell crank for string 6 is the only one that is shaped like that and isn't connect to another connector. Hmmm...

Yes, the crossrods have a flat side for the bell crank set screw. I'm sure it's for stability, the guitar plays great!

Posted: 5 Jan 2014 12:47 pm
by John Swain
I've never seen one, but I would think It's to make strings 3+6 raise in parallel..JS

Posted: 5 Jan 2014 1:12 pm
by Damir Besic
niiiiiiiice :whoa:

Posted: 5 Jan 2014 1:27 pm
by John McClung
One feature I really like (if I'm understanding the photo #3 correctly) is that knee levers are on their own crossrods, linked to the actual crossrod with pulling bell cranks.

With that rail down the middle with dozens of pre-drilled holes, looks like it would be real easy to reposition almost any knee lever for maximum comfort for the player.

You would have to move the KL stop screw/bracket and drill new holes, but a small price to pay for custom spacing that is usually next to impossible to do.

Well done, Mr. Rittenberry! Is that a brand new idea in pedal steel construction?

Here's a brainstorming thought to avoid those new holes: put the stop on a crossrod that mounts into those holes on the rails. So looking at RKL on this steel, that rod would be to the right, kind of where the bracket stop is now.

Or, put a stop adjusting bell crank on the KL crossrod itself, right next to the KL, turned 90 CW degrees to the lever, that bangs into the cabinet underside and is height adjustable to tweak the KL stop distance to suit. With that, no bracket and holes needed at all. Would probably not work well on a D-10.

Chime in, mechanical engineers!

Sure is a great looking steel, no matter what happens under the hood, Erik!