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Topic: Sho-Bud Maverick vs. Fender Student |
Miguel Saldana
From:
San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 14 Oct 2013 3:22 pm |
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As an owner of a Fender Student pedal steel, I've looked into many threads on the forum and am often finding what I believe to be some misinformation regarding the mechanics between these two steels.
Although it is recognized that Sho-Bud produced both the Maverick and the Fender Student, it appears that the distinction between their changers is not well understood. Another variable is that the Maverick may have been manufactured in a few varieties.
Below is a photo of what I'm typically finding for the undercarriage of a Sho-Bud Maverick:
Below is a photo of what I'm typically finding for the undercarriage of a Fender Student:
If I'm not mistaken, others have mentioned the changers on the Fender Student are closer to what you would find on a Sho-Bud Pro III, although I am not well versed in that matter. Others posts have also alluded to some Mavericks being produced with the hex rods. I'm not sure if the same variation or change in mechanisms happened for the Fender Students.
I was hoping others could chime in to clarify the issue and perhaps give a little more credit to these economy steels. |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 14 Oct 2013 3:58 pm
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The Fender looks to be a basic pull/release set up, capable of 2 pulls on each changer finger.. Looks to be a bit more stout mechanism than we see on the Maverick as well.. It is NOT a Super Pro or ProIII changer set up, not even close.. However, the cross shafts and bellcranks are similar to the SP.. Combines the SP pull parts with a cheaper P/R changer from what I can gather.
It looks like the Fender student could have a few knees added without much problem.. Problem is adding lets say 3 knees, would cost more than the guitar worth... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 14 Oct 2013 4:13 pm
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Putting the axles down (or up) against the deck means that (and Bob knows this having rebuilt a PR Marlen) that only RKR or LKR can lower, and pedals, LKL and RKL must raise.
On a PP or PR, if you want full functions, the axles need to sit in the middle of the cabinet.
I'd say only dealers oughta be worried about "damn, I now have more in this guitar than it's worth."
My Bud is gonna cost me an arm and a leg, but it's worth every penny. To me (and the guy who's selling me the parts.)
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 14 Oct 2013 5:32 pm
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
Putting the axles down (or up) against the deck means that (and Bob knows this having rebuilt a PR Marlen) that only RKR or LKR can lower, and pedals, LKL and RKL must raise.
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Huh? Lane, that makes absolutely no sense. You use pivoting levers to reverse the pull into a lower, whether the pull comes from a pedal or a knee. You can make a Right moving knee lower as well. You can use the levers as accelerators too.
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 15 Oct 2013 2:42 am
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It made perfect sense til I saw those pictures.
A clever person can make simple machines do complex things, if you haul off and get clever with it.
I'd never seen stuff like that before, Chris.
Wow.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 15 Oct 2013 7:27 am
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Those horizontal levers were common in pull release Sho-Buds and other guitars, although I have only seen them twice in Marlens.
Lane, you can also place a vertical bellcrank behind the changer to get a lower from a pull. Bigsby did that because it is hard to push with a cable and levers clutter up the underside of a guitar.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 15 Oct 2013 7:36 am
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Like I said, Chris, I love watching and seeing clever folks making simple machines do clever stuff (back when I drove all over the country, I once spent two hours watching an apparently gilded age waffle cone maker, about 17' diameter. No sensors, switches or solenoids. Just an elaborate dance of cams, rods and levers.)
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Bob Hickish
From:
Port Ludlow, Washington, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 15 Oct 2013 4:50 pm
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maybe I can add some info on this post - I have a fender student PSG from the early 70’s and its still my favorite steel - its come a long way from original pull release to a Sho-Bud pro I changer -- its now a 3 and 5 Steel -- in order for it to rase & lower strings 4 & 8 , I had to add an idler to resemble the rack system of the early Sho-Bud -- I bought this guitar in 73 -- 40 plus years and its still going
take a look
old changer
Pro I changer
idler
walnut over lay neck
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 16 Oct 2013 1:39 am
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NICE work!!!
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Bob Hickish
From:
Port Ludlow, Washington, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Oct 2013 6:21 am
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Thanks Bob -- I just wanted Miguel to know there is some value in making one of these guitars work as good (IMO ) as any new modal I’m not sure about doing this to a maverick , but the old Fender Sho-Buds have a good base to start from -- that is if you like to tinker and have a few tools ---
BTW Miguel -- you can add levers to the pull release changer -- you can drill a third hole on the finger to get the double pull or add an idler to get it - the local hardware store will have the long allen wrench’s you can cut to make the cross shafts |
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Miguel Saldana
From:
San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 16 Oct 2013 8:13 am
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Thanks Bob and everyone providing comments to the thread.
Having read many threads where others commented that it would be very difficult and/or very expensive to do any modifications to a Fender Student based on the assumption that it used the same mechanism as a Sho-Bud Maverick, I just wanted a thread that could shed a little more light on the subject. I'm sure modifications could be difficult/expensive, but I do feel it should be approached individually, rather than these two budget steels always being lumped together.
And Bob, that looks like a big undertaking but I'm sure you learned a lot in the process of modifying your Fender Student. The simplicity of the mechanism and frame certainly perks up the DIY/modder in me. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 16 Oct 2013 8:38 am
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Bob (Hickish), why did you decide against 2 hole pullers? Then you could take full advantage of the Pro 1 changer.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Bob Hickish
From:
Port Ludlow, Washington, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Oct 2013 10:10 am
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Hi Lane
It was the only one I could find at the time - however you are spot on with the two holler idea , it would have made it a snap to build this guitar --- it turned out , you do the best you can with what you got . If I were still in the game of gigging i might just change it out with two hole fingers and clean it up -- it still plays good like it is and it is easy on strings -- never broke a one so far -- it gets played everyday and the strings are well ready to be changed -- maybe it the strings , I use jag’s -- (shameless endorsement ) 
I might add - its a light weight guitar - if i remember correctly it 32 or 33 Lbs in the case . just what an old phart need when it comes to taking it anywhere --- thats more why i did this in the first place |
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