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Topic: ball joints |
John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 29 May 2013 3:14 am |
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| I found some ball joints for sho bud knee lever. Problem is they are in MM size and I need to know what the normal size that that is used on the buds. Do I need 5mm or 6mm. All the ones for sale from the US are not measured in mm. Hope this makes sense.. |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Ronnie Boettcher
From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
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Posted 29 May 2013 6:10 am
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The thread size for Sho~Bud is 10/32. If you have to drill and re-tap them, good luck. If you don't have the tap, they sell cheap ones at harbor freight, and they will work. Just use a drop of oil to lube the tap.
_________________
Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142 |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 29 May 2013 6:39 am
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| Thanks guys, but I live in the UK and getting anything from the US cost a lot for shipping and takes forever. I don't know what 10/32 is in MM size, we use metric here in the UK.. |
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Bob Knight
From:
Bowling Green KY
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 29 May 2013 7:30 am
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| I have tried that already but it not telling me what I need to know.what I want is what is the sho bud ball joint in MM. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 29 May 2013 7:35 am
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I hope you are not trying to match metric threaded parts with SAE parts. The thread size and pitches won't interchange.
Since we don't know if this is the case or all your new parts will be metric, it is hard to advise.
As to #10-32, that is the same as US 3/16-NF [national fine thread] bolt size. The nearest metric equivalent to 3/16" is 4.7625 mm.
These measurements are for the threaded part, not the ball itself?
Last edited by Jerry Overstreet on 29 May 2013 7:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Posted 29 May 2013 7:43 am
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10/32 converts to 3/16"-32tpi which translates to 5mm/.8 closest metric thread size to 10/32 ...I'm pretty sure  |
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Michael Hummel
From:
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 May 2013 7:54 am
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John:
You could just ask James Morehead to send you a small package with a couple of ball joints for your Bud. I did, I'm sure the postage charge from him to me in Canada was only a few dollars.
Cheers,
Mike
_________________
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list |
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Malcolm McMaster
From:
Beith Ayrshire Scotland
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Posted 29 May 2013 7:57 am
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John have you tried Ronnie Bennett, he does work on Buds , may have some.
_________________
MSA Millenium SD10, GK MB200, Sica 12inch cab, Joyo American Sound Pedal/ Jay Ganz Straight Ahead amp, Telonics 15inch in Peavey cab, Digitech RP150, Peterson tuner.Hilton volume pedal.Scott Dixon seat and guitar flight case. |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 29 May 2013 8:07 am
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| I think Jerry has hit it on the head, I will need 5mm. I can get them from Radio Spares here in the UKfor £2.50 each that includes ball and the socket to connect to the rod..Thanks to all for your help |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 29 May 2013 8:08 am
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I just tried a 10-32 screw in a 5mm .8 tpi die. [per Storm] It threads in fine, is just a tad loose but appears that it would tighten up just fine.
Apologies for the confusion if I am not understanding your issue. |
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Malcolm McMaster
From:
Beith Ayrshire Scotland
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Posted 29 May 2013 9:20 am
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John, I seem to remember many moons ago I got some that fitted my old Bud from a marine engine place, used on throttle linkage, believe they were also used on vintage Jags as well
_________________
MSA Millenium SD10, GK MB200, Sica 12inch cab, Joyo American Sound Pedal/ Jay Ganz Straight Ahead amp, Telonics 15inch in Peavey cab, Digitech RP150, Peterson tuner.Hilton volume pedal.Scott Dixon seat and guitar flight case. |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 29 May 2013 3:33 pm
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It is your Sho-Bud and you may do anything you like with it, but I certainly would not put a metric threaded piece in place of a 10/32 threaded piece -- especially when it is a moving mechanical connection. In addition, the threaded pieces may be steel and aluminum or pot metal and steel.
Sooner than later you will likely be dissatisfied with your expedient solution and find that the mismatched threads have ruined the original 10/32 female threads so even an original Sho-Bud part will not simply screw into place. Just a thought.
I would order the correct part from Moorehead or Michael Yahl or McMaster Carr or from the number of sources for SA threaded thtottle linkage parts that you can find in England. I perhaps could have found one near you if your home town was not a secret.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 29 May 2013 10:47 pm
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This is the correct part that you need.
http://www.psgparts.com/Ball-Joint-Plastic-Snap-On-BJP-090-SNAP.htm
This is the OEM part that Sho~Bud used. There is only one supplier and it took me 2 years of searching to find them.
I think that USPS Priority International will only be $16.95. Granted, that's 3 times the price of a single item but there is no other direct replacement.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 29 May 2013 11:56 pm
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What Chris said. Unless someone already converted your guitar to metric (recall super doubtful), the other bits will be SAE. It's not not quite like switching from pints of ale to half liters.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 30 May 2013 1:37 am
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| I'm not replacing anything, I'm converting a 6140 to an E9th. As there are three spare racks on it I will be using them to add three knee levers to it. |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 30 May 2013 1:38 am
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| I'm not replacing anything, I'm converting a 6140 to an E9th. As there are three spare racks on it I will be using them to add three knee levers to it. |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 30 May 2013 12:41 pm
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John
I have purchased parts from Michael Yahl, and received them very promptly. I agree with Chris Lucker on this one and would keep the parts non-metric, even though the metric price is very tempting.
Ken
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 30 May 2013 12:47 pm
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| Are the screw threads long enough on the ball end, to go through the rack tab, and add a lock nut to hold it on? Or Loktite instead of a wider locknut? Then you could maybe just drill out the threads and take it from there. |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 30 May 2013 12:56 pm
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| I understand what your saying Ken, but all I'm doing is modding a couple of he racks by adding a short piece of metal to the rack to take a knee lever,, I will drill a 5mm hole in the metal to take the ball joint for one of the levers and the same with the other i will add the lever directly to the rack...I don't think will offend the steel too much....I am amazed at the tone from this bud,sweet very sweet... |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 30 May 2013 1:01 pm
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| rack and barrel sho-bud undercarriages are fairly crude...not precision machines. i'd mickey mouse anything that will get the job done and move on. |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 30 May 2013 6:34 pm
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Sorry John, thought you were looking for a replacement.
Yes, the standard throttle linkage type of ball joint will work for your application. The drawback is the inability to make adjustments easily.
This is one of the design concepts of these plastic ball joint assemblies. They have the ability to 'snap' on and off quickly thereby allowing for a quick and easy adjustment.
The standard throttle linkage is a swaged unit that requires the ball stud to be un-threaded from the attachment point, adjusted, and then re-threaded back into the attachment point. Although a snap on type is available, they are all metal in their construction and weigh 3.5 times as much per unit. I just weighed both styles and found that the plastic snap on type is 4g and the swaged metal style is 14g.
Just FYI for everyone...
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 31 May 2013 1:55 am
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| John Roche wrote: |
| I understand what your saying Ken, but all I'm doing is modding a couple of he racks by adding a short piece of metal to the rack to take a knee lever,, I will drill a 5mm hole in the metal to take the ball joint for one of the levers and the same with the other i will add the lever directly to the rack...I don't think will offend the steel too much....I am amazed at the tone from this bud,sweet very sweet... |
That's a quick fix for a very nice guitar John. Perhaps you can put some pics up of the guitar. Those old rack and barrel guitars sounded great and are so flexible when setting up different copedants. 
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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