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Topic: Embarrassing problem... slant bar control! |
Jim Newberry
From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 1:20 pm |
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I'm in a getting-back-to-fundamentals phase and having a problem.
I'm finally paying more attention to my bar grip (close to Mike Neer's grip, it seems) and I can't get the mechanics to come back from a forward slant... Can anybody describe it in words to me? I seem to pivot OK and get to the slant position with my thumb near the back of the bar, but how do I move the bar back? You don't push it back with your ring finger, do you?
I don't really have an issue with reverse slants. That feels natural, using the indent and all.
I'm using a Tribotone "B" and BJS Byrd bar and I have watched Lorene Ruymar's YouTube clip on the subject. I mostly play on a Stringmaster D8.
I humbly grovel for any tips you might have... I know I'm overthinking this, but I'm losing my grip, so to speak.
_________________
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps |
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David Matzenik
From:
Cairns, on the Coral Sea
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 1:37 pm
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What I do is insert thumb in hollow heel of the bar which requires a bent thumb. As I straighten my thumb the bar pivots under my first finger into the straight bar position.
_________________
Don't go in the water after lunch. You'll get a cramp and drown. - Mother. |
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Jerome Hawkes
From:
Fayetteville, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 1:45 pm Re: Embarrassing problem... slant bar control!
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| Jim Newberry wrote: |
You don't push it back with your ring finger, do you?
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did you mean the middle finger? if you are using the ring, yeah, something is wrong - i mean, the whole hand works together - the middle finger does a lot of the "return" work. the thumb pushes away and the middle returns it - the index is the pivot point it should not move, just provide the anchor point
I learned it right from Jerry Byrds lessons - exactly as he does it. (...i might not explain it correctly though) i dont say that to mean you HAVE to do it that way - but who am I to question the way a guy playing for 70 years says do it.
_________________
'65 Sho-Bud D-10 Permanent • '54 Fender Dual-8 • Clinesmith T-8 • '38 Ric Bakelite • '92 Emmons D-10 Legrande II |
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Rick Aiello
From:
Berryville, VA USA
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 4:43 pm
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As you start a forward slant ...
Your hand arches up, extends slightly out (toward the audience) and slightly turns to the right ... As your thumb pushes the butt of the bar under the middle and ring finger ...
JB likened these slight hand motions (we are talking millimeters here).... To rounding a corner with a car ...
When you want to go back to a straight bar position ...
Your hand pulls back slightly toward your body while it slightly turns back to the left ... And you flatten that arch back down ...
These three motions ... The slight retracting of the hand ... the slight turn back left ... And the flattening of the hand ... Moves the bar back to the starting, straight bar position.
These slight hand motions should not be confused with "wrist-ing" a slant ... They are just very small but important manifestations associated with slanting ...
Hope that helps ...  |
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 4:49 pm
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| Yes, you do use the middle finger to aid the return. It will be over the bar's bottom half when in forward slant mode and to begin the return you start dropping the mid finger down which puts pressure on the left side of the bar and moves the bottom end back as the rest of the hand does it's 'proper' movements so the bar ends up straight, or wherever you want it to eventually go. |
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Jerome Hawkes
From:
Fayetteville, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 5:09 pm
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Yeap - just like Ron said - both Rick & Ron laid it out better verbally.
One thing - if you are attempting 2 adjacent string slants on a long scale stringmaster, that is a bar control nightmare for anyone... esp with the sm tight string spacing. You have to really move the bar a good distance. I really didn't learn how to properly slant til I got my Ric B6 Bakelite - boy, what a breeze to slant, so I started doing them all the time, which meant I got a lot better at them.
_________________
'65 Sho-Bud D-10 Permanent • '54 Fender Dual-8 • Clinesmith T-8 • '38 Ric Bakelite • '92 Emmons D-10 Legrande II |
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Jim Newberry
From:
Seattle, Upper Left America
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 6:30 pm
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This is just the sort of advice I was looking for. Thanks, fellers! I'll spend some time on it tonight. Bound to help.
_________________
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps |
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David Matzenik
From:
Cairns, on the Coral Sea
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Posted 28 Feb 2013 7:08 pm
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Jim, I must apologise. I do as the guys describe. I use the thumb method when going from a forward slant into a reverse slant.
_________________
Don't go in the water after lunch. You'll get a cramp and drown. - Mother. |
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