The Steel Guitar Forum

I tried to set up my Sho-Bud so that on the C6 neck, Pedal 8 will lower the 10th string C to an A, but I can only get it down to a B and then it starts to go back to the C.

Don't know much about 'Buds in particular, but this is how I would troubleshoot the condition. From what you wrote, it sounds like the 10th string lower finger is bottoming out before it gets to the A change.

First, back off the nylon tuner until it isn't affected by the pedal.

Reach underneath the changer, find the lower finger that operates the 10th string. Pull it back toward the left end plate with your hand and see if it will lower the string to an A.

If so, then you need to adjust the linkage, probably the pedal stop, so that you have more travel in that pull train.

If not, then you have a problem with the changer or an obstruction therein.

What change did you have on it before?

Are the raise helper springs adjustable? I've not been under a Bud in a long time.
If the helper springs are too strong, the raise finger starts moving instead of the string.
Also check that you don't have interference between the lower rod and the raise rod of P5. watch the rods, and see if the raise rod moves with the lower rod (and do you have 2-hole or the nylon nuts?)

This is my first pedal steel guitar, and I just purchased it about a week ago, and I have been going through and tuning and adjusting everything. I'm not sure what the change was before, but the previous owner said it had the Emmons setup. I found a copedent chart and I was following that in regards to the tuning. They are nylon nuts on the end. It is the only string where I've had any problem (the 10th string on the C6 neck. I started on the E9 and worked my way over to the C6. Go figure that the very last change on the very last string would give me a problem).

From one of your earlier posts, I'm guessing this is a Super Pro model. I don't know if they have helper springs, but it's possible it could inhibit your lower action. You need to make sure there is enough changer travel first though.

You could unhook it temporarily and see if it helps your condition if there is one. It would be nearest the body as opposed to the bottom row of lower return springs. You don't want to unhook any of those.

Yes it is a 1979 Super Pro. It has two rows of springs (one closer to the body and one lower). I wasn't quite sure about the helper springs. I'd heard of them before but wasn't sure which ones they were.

Those are the ones up against the body ("up" when the guitar is on its legs). There might not be one on every string, since it only helps make raises easier. An E9 guitar might therefore not have one on 2 and 9.
The ones at the bottom of the endplate, with the adjustment screws, those are lower return springs. You need them evrn if you DON'T lower the string.

I took the helper spring off, and now it goes to an A no problem. I also have the 5th pedal raise to a D. Would it be alright to leave the helper spring off?

Many makers don't even use them.
The only question is: does P5 feel too stiff?
If you can live with it without the spring, then leave it off. If it's too stiff, then find a lighter spring. Zumsteel helper springs are adjustable, but I don't think Sho-Buds are.

I was having a problem with another string not lowering all the way (2nd string on C6 neck E to D). There was a sixth knee lever already installed when I bought the guitar (it's to the left of the RKL lever) so I decided to have it lower the 2nd string E to a D and raise the 7th string C to a D. The raise works fine, but the 2nd string had trouble lowering all the way , so I took the helper spring off, but the note still will not lower all the way. It gets to be slightly higher than a D and then starts raising again, and this is with the helper spring off. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Last time oiled?
Friction MIGHT account for that.
Also, if you have adjustable return springs, try increasing its tension (or was it decrease?), as sometimes the return springs act as a fulcrum.
I'd suggest watching the fingers as you move it to see what's happening.

My Sho~Bud Pro III recently suffered from this exact problem (pedal 8 lowers not quite all the way, then the pitch starts to go back up for the rest of the travel).

I looked underneath and just at the point where the pitch starts to raise, the raise finger was being pulled out with the lower finger. The changer looked a bit gunky so I cleaned between the fingers and put a little oil. Much better now.

I really should take the changers apart and give them a proper cleaning -- but I'm scared to.

Mike

I have never oiled it. I bought it a few months ago and just tuned it up and started playing, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to clean it properly. I have some lubricant (called 'LubriKit' from Planet Waves) that I use on the tremoloes of some of my electric guitars and it works great. Any suggestions/techniques on where/how to clean and oil it?

I'd use a light machine oil (gun oil, sewing machine oil, 3 in 1 et cetera)
On an all-pull guitar, the important bit is hard to see: the lower return springs are in the way but if you remove them, you then will have a hard time watching the pivot point since it won't pivot there.
A sewing machine oiler with the long tube helps: every string gets a drop where it pivots.
If you turn the guitar over and watch as you operate pedals and knees, you'll see where they move. Just a drop, and you're set for another year