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Re-chrome or buy new steel guitar legs?

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 12:03 pm
by Butch Pytko
Just wondering what the cost of re-chrome vs. new steel guitar legs would be. I remember someone said the old legs would have to be properly "preped" before the re-chrome process, so it would come out right. If the re-chrome process is cheaper, anyone know who can do it?

On second thought, I'm referring to VINTAGE steel guitars. In order to keep the VINTAGE steel guitar--VINTAGE--no matter what the cost, maybe re-chroming is the only way to go! Any thoughts from you "restorers" out there?

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 12:49 pm
by chas smith
I'll bet almost anything that the re-chrome will be more expensive. Steel guitar legs are nothing more than mic stands with threaded inserts on the guitar end.

You would disassemble the leg. Then they strip the chrome, nickel plate it (nickel is a "leveler) then they polish the nickel and then it's chromed. This will probably mean you will have to the "chase" the threads on the top and bottom of the larger tube.

You might just try polishing the legs with a good buffing wheel and see what happens.

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 1:29 pm
by John Billings
Butch,
How bad are they? Condition matters a lot. The legs on this '67 looked pretty bad, but they cleaned up nicely with the right products. But if they're pitted, and peeling? Find a plating/polishing shop, and get an estimaye.

Image

Cleaning chrome

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 3:07 pm
by Eric Sutton
An old trick an old timer tought me from my motor cycle days. Aluminium foil balls, water, and a lot of elbow greese.

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 3:37 pm
by Butch Pytko
Sorry, I should have been more specific. None of my present guitars legs need re-chroming. Been looking at pictures of vintage guitars for sale here on the forum & some of the guitars legs have visible rust on them--just thinking ahead, should I buy one.

Posted: 14 Jul 2012 9:33 pm
by Russ Wever
Aluminium foil balls, water,
and a lot of elbow greese.
Eric, I'm curious - could you
expound upon this a bit?
Thnx,
Russ

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 6:16 am
by Eric Sutton
Yes Sir. I use to help restore motorcycles for a private collection. The Process is stupidly simple. The alu. foil is softer then the chrome but harder then rust/ stains. The water acts a lube and carries away dirt and rust.It will not scratch unless you rub too hard. Try it on a old bicycle wheel or a bumper first.

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 7:12 am
by John Billings
I'm a lousy photographer, and, man!, chrome is hard to photograph!
The first pic is an old Fender leg. If you look closely, you can see the rust spots;

Image

This second pic is of the exact same place on the leg. Used California Custom Deoxidizer and Purple Polish. All traces of rust are gone. Of course polish can't remove pitting and dents, but for a total of 2 minutes work, I think it looks pretty good.


Image

http://www.californiacustom.com/aluminu ... dizer.html
Not just for aluminum.

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 10:27 am
by Butch Pytko
John, that's a real fine clean Sho-Bud. I really admire people who keep their guitar's that clean! And, thanks for the polishing tip.

I guess when taking a chance on buying a vintage guitar, you have to go on a case-by-case basis, whatever you may have to polish/repair on the guitar.

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 10:36 am
by John Billings
Thanks Butch! But that guitar is a complete restoration. It was a filthy mess when I got it.

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 10:54 am
by chris ivey
john, have you tried this on your face?

Posted: 15 Jul 2012 11:02 am
by John Billings
BWAAAAA! Chris, do a search on "Gurning." That's the face of a guy in a clip that Ghoulardi used to use on his tv show. I actually am a dead ringer for a young Cary Grant!