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Buying first pedal steel

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 11:09 am
by Christopher Lippincott
Hello,

I am currently in the market for my first pedal steel. I play 8 string C6th lap and have recently picked up E9th pedal since a friend loaned me his MSA classic that is fairly out of shape. I want to buy a double and today I was looking at this Miller D-10 that is for sale here: http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=223843 I thought that it may be a good starter steel, though many have told me to go ahead shell out a few grand and get a reliable steel. One thought I had was to buy this, get it switched to Emmons setup (currently in Day) and get used to a double and then sell it after a few months to then buy a professional steel. The cons are that it is a dirty steel, there are no parts out there for it, I have to get the copedant switched, and I will eventually have to re-ship it.

My other option is to hold off, save up for a few more months and buy a professional quality steel that will really hold up for time and will not need servicing (which I am not fluent with)

As you can see, I am torn on what to do in buying my first steel


Though I am anxious to sit behind a double and be able to practice, I am in no major rush, I would really like to just get the best fitting steel matched with price.

Advice is greatly appreciated

Chris L

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 1:38 pm
by Lane Gray
I'd shy away from the Miller. Pull-release is an outmoded technology. All-pull guitars are available for the same money, and you can get tunable splits.
I'd trust any guitar Fred sells, but if it needs adjustment in the future, they're harder to work on.
(pull-release does have a different, and pleasing, tone, however)

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 1:53 pm
by Herb Steiner
Agree with Lane, emphatically. If this is your first pedal steel, you don't want it to be a Miller. The mechanism is outmoded by decades, parts are unobtainable, that one doesn't look in very good shape, and there's too many potential pitfalls for a new player to encounter.

You should consider spending more $$ and look for a well-cared-for relatively modern guitar, such as a Fessenden or a Carter, that are reasonably priced in today's market. There are others, but those are two that cross my mind at the moment. Others might be BMI, Dekley, MSA's from the 70's, Sho~Buds, et al.

Going up to $1800-2000 will get you into a very playable and relatively trouble-free D-10.

IMHO, of course, but I do have a little experience in this game. Just sayin'...

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 3:55 pm
by Lane Gray
And I'd upgrade my caution after reading Fred's For Sale listing.
Fred isn't selling it, and hasn't gone over it.
IMO, that changes everything.
This guitar should only go to someone who has messed with pull-release and knows what they're getting into.
I would look at the ones Herb just mentioned.

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 4:07 pm
by Ransom Beers
I got my guitar new from Don Burrows,with split cases, 3 X 5 SD-10 with pad,with shipping just a shade over 2 grand & he used my color of mica I wanted.I love mine.

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 4:46 pm
by John Swindle
I've been playing with pedals for only a couple of years, so I don't have the expertise of these guys who've responded so far. But I can tell you that I got some good advice when I was in your situation. Everybody told me to hold out for a while, until I could buy what I really wanted. Eventually, I amassed enough pennies to do it right, and got a Mullen D-10. I may never be able to really use all seven of its levers, but it will never get boring. And I didn't have to mess with changing the copedent on a starter instrument, or trying to sell it later. Remember, for every transaction, there's a big shipping charge. Good luck, Chris!

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 6:29 pm
by Mike Schwartzman
I believe you are getting solid advice here. You already have a good leg up with your C6th lap experience and your E9th loaner. I think having to wrestle with old mechanics and non existing parts would lend potential frustration to your learning process.

I guess I must have been channeling some of Herb's suggestions, as my first instrument was a BMI and my 2nd steel was a Carter. No regrets here, and I'd be happy with either one now a few years down the road.

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 9:49 pm
by Christopher Lippincott
Thank all of you for such direct advice. I think I am going to wait on it. What would ya'll have to say about an excel d-10, quality and price. I live here in NOLA and that is what Dave Easley got custom built and his looks/plays like a tank of a steel (though I have only played a few). I want something that has a quick and easy action on the pedal/lever side of things.

I also saw this beautiful guitar for sale and am trying to connect with the seller about a possible transaction.

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=222923


Thanks again for any advice

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 10:17 pm
by Lane Gray
I've only played one. Well made, nice playing. Generally kinda high priced. If it plays in tune, grab it

Posted: 2 Apr 2012 10:34 pm
by Pete Ethridge
I would stay away from the miller and save up somemore money to get a guitar that will play better and sound better.I think those millers are kind of hard to work on.Being you first psg you wuold not want to try to fix siomething on the guitar,reason said this is your first and you dont't want to try workind on amiller

Posted: 3 Apr 2012 3:55 pm
by Joshua Gibson
Howdy Chris, I'm relatively new to PSG as well and I picked up an Excel D-10 in Portland & I like it Myself, I've compared it to a Few different steels & I had the good fortune to know several of the top steel players in the area so Their steels were My comparison notes,
The only thing I will say about the guitar is if You are on the taller side(5'11" or above)You may as well get ahold of Bobby Seymour for at least a 1" lift kit, They aire on the short side due to the fact that the front legs are non-adjustable...Just My two cents :D good luck,
Josh Gibson.

Posted: 3 Apr 2012 5:39 pm
by Mike Perlowin
The best deal on used steels is a 70s vintage MSA D-10. They are fine guitars that are just as usable today as they were when they were new (depending on the condition of course.) I played one (I play a U-12) for over 25 years, and the only reason I sold it was to get a new one, also an MSA. The reason they don't command a higher price is that there are a gazillion of them floating around, and they are not rare collector's items.

I suggest you keep checking the classified ads here.

Here are 4 that I found:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... hlight=msa

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... hlight=msa

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... hlight=msa

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... hlight=msa