Follow up on amp that quit working
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Follow up on amp that quit working
Want to thank all of you who gave me input about my amp that quit working. Its working now!!!! Thanks Cal,David,Larry,Mike,Robert,Ransom,Jack and Henry. Special Thanks to Cal Sharp. I beat on the top and it started working.... Now I will get some cleaner and spray the heck out of it. Thanks again guys.... You all are great when it comes to giving fellow steelers a hand. Bless ya all....... Jack<><
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- Cal Sharp
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Over the years I've come to dread and abhor the term "Molex", like "prostate" or "boarding pass". The mere mention of the word conjures up images of being at a gig with an amp that doesn't work. A someone mentioned, I yanked the damn devil-things out of all my amps and soldered the wires.
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- Ray Montee
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What brand amp was it?
I also encountered that problem some years ago. A sharp rap of the bar on top of the amp near the handle seemed to correct the problem......until the next time. My amp was a Peavy Session 400.
This con't for several years but was tolerable. Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone. The direct short occrred just beyond the FUSE.....and thus the fire.
It was repaired and played for years with it. Now, once again, I'm having to rap on top of the amp to energize it sufficiently so it will play once again.
This con't for several years but was tolerable. Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone. The direct short occrred just beyond the FUSE.....and thus the fire.
It was repaired and played for years with it. Now, once again, I'm having to rap on top of the amp to energize it sufficiently so it will play once again.
- Joseph Meditz
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- Jack Stoner
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Molex connectors were not designed for low level audio applications. They were designed for power connections (and work well for those).
They are inexpensive connectors (I won't say cheap) and probably why they were used.
The "bigger hammer" approach may work for a while, but eventually the "bigger hammer" won't work and then it will have to be correctly repaired.
They are inexpensive connectors (I won't say cheap) and probably why they were used.
The "bigger hammer" approach may work for a while, but eventually the "bigger hammer" won't work and then it will have to be correctly repaired.
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Re: What brand amp was it?
Ray might I suggest a fire extinguisher (dry type only) on your must have list.....StormyRay Montee wrote:I also encountered that problem some years ago. A sharp rap of the bar on top of the amp near the handle seemed to correct the problem......until the next time. My amp was a Peavy Session 400.
This con't for several years but was tolerable. Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone. The direct short occrred just beyond the FUSE.....and thus the fire.
It was repaired and played for years with it. Now, once again, I'm having to rap on top of the amp to energize it sufficiently so it will play once again.