Follow up on amp that quit working

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn

Post Reply
Jack Mattison
Posts: 176
Joined: 2 Apr 2008 2:12 pm
Location: North Bend, Wa

Follow up on amp that quit working

Post by Jack Mattison »

Want to thank all of you who gave me input about my amp that quit working. Its working now!!!! Thanks Cal,David,Larry,Mike,Robert,Ransom,Jack and Henry. Special Thanks to Cal Sharp. I beat on the top and it started working.... Now I will get some cleaner and spray the heck out of it. Thanks again guys.... You all are great when it comes to giving fellow steelers a hand. Bless ya all....... Jack<><
Little Round Mound of Sound. D-10 8/5 ShoBud "The Professional" Pevey NV400.
User avatar
Cal Sharp
Posts: 2873
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Contact:

Post by Cal Sharp »

Over the years I've come to dread and abhor the term "Molex", like "prostate" or "boarding pass". The mere mention of the word conjures up images of being at a gig with an amp that doesn't work. A someone mentioned, I yanked the damn devil-things out of all my amps and soldered the wires.
C#
Me: Steel Guitar Madness
Latest ebook: Steel Guitar Insanity
Custom Made Covers for Steel Guitars & Amps at Sharp Covers Nashville
User avatar
Ray Montee
Posts: 9506
Joined: 7 Jul 1999 12:01 am
Location: Portland, Oregon (deceased)
Contact:

What brand amp was it?

Post by Ray Montee »

I also encountered that problem some years ago. A sharp rap of the bar on top of the amp near the handle seemed to correct the problem......until the next time. My amp was a Peavy Session 400.

This con't for several years but was tolerable. Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone. The direct short occrred just beyond the FUSE.....and thus the fire.

It was repaired and played for years with it. Now, once again, I'm having to rap on top of the amp to energize it sufficiently so it will play once again.
User avatar
Joseph Meditz
Posts: 345
Joined: 14 Nov 2005 1:01 am
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ

Post by Joseph Meditz »

Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone.
Ray, I think it would've been far more satisfying had you gathered your band members and put the amp with its cone aflame on a raft and then placed a horned Viking helmet atop it and pushed it out to sea.
User avatar
Jack Stoner
Posts: 22087
Joined: 3 Dec 1999 1:01 am
Location: Kansas City, MO

Post by Jack Stoner »

Molex connectors were not designed for low level audio applications. They were designed for power connections (and work well for those).

They are inexpensive connectors (I won't say cheap) and probably why they were used.

The "bigger hammer" approach may work for a while, but eventually the "bigger hammer" won't work and then it will have to be correctly repaired.
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings (all for sale as package)
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit
Storm Rosson
Posts: 1408
Joined: 1 Oct 2009 4:16 pm
Location: Silver City, NM. USA

Re: What brand amp was it?

Post by Storm Rosson »

Ray Montee wrote:I also encountered that problem some years ago. A sharp rap of the bar on top of the amp near the handle seemed to correct the problem......until the next time. My amp was a Peavy Session 400.

This con't for several years but was tolerable. Then one day, the amp caught on fire right in the center of the cone. The direct short occrred just beyond the FUSE.....and thus the fire.

It was repaired and played for years with it. Now, once again, I'm having to rap on top of the amp to energize it sufficiently so it will play once again.
Ray might I suggest a fire extinguisher (dry type only) on your must have list.....Stormy :mrgreen:
Post Reply