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Anyone have a good Dobro patch for RP155

Posted: 14 Mar 2012 1:10 pm
by Richard Sinkler
I would like to try to get a decent patch for my Digitech RP155 to sound like a dobro (or should I say, simulator). I have a Bo-Bro that works pretty good, but it eats batteries (1 per gig or 2) and when I use my DC Brick power supply, it introduces a great deal of buzz to my signal. The only way to get rid of it is to unplug the DC Brick. It drops the buzz level by probably 80%.

Posted: 14 Mar 2012 1:44 pm
by Jack Stanton
Richard,
Just started on the same quest. Here's what I've come up with:
EQ Low-12 Mid -6 Highs 2
Chorus PH (phase)Speed 0 Depth 8 level 21
Reverb Spring Level 20
I use the comprssor to clean boost the volume (Sustain and compression on 0

Let me know what you come up with!

PS. Do you have a good rotary/ leslie patch? I'm close, but it's missing something...

Posted: 14 Mar 2012 1:58 pm
by Bill Moore
I got a descent one, at least as good as using a eq pedal by using the "wah" setting. I used the x-edit program, you download it from Digitech. Basically, adjust it so there is no actual wah effect, no oscillation, set the tone to about 45. Then I added some delay and a little bit of reverb. Also, in the EQ section,turn the bass down all the way, the mid frequency up and the mid level up all the way, and adjust the treble till you like the sound. All of that is easier if you download and use the x-edit program, you can see what you doing on the computer screen.

Dobro Patch...

Posted: 14 Mar 2012 2:23 pm
by Dick Sexton
Might try this as a starting point...

Dobro Patch

>>>>>Knob 1,Knob 2,Knob 3,Knob 4
Pick up....5H.........50........0..........99
Wah........FR.........50.......49...........9
Equalizer..SP...........0.......12........-12
Reverb.....HA........40.......40.........40

Complements of Steve English

Posted: 14 Mar 2012 3:02 pm
by Richard Sinkler
Wow thanks guys. I'll give these ideas a shot tomorrow.

As far as a rotary patch, everything I have tried on the RP155 pretty much sucks, but I really haven't gone very far trying. I would also be interested in any rotary patches that might be out there. The main thing I don't like about the rotary in many effects, is the inability to switch from slow to fast to slow etc... The RP is just one speed in one patch and another in a different patch. Of course, you can switch between patches, but you lose the ramp up/ramp down effects like you can get in dedicated rotary pedals like the Boss and others.

Posted: 17 Mar 2012 7:10 am
by Richard Sinkler
Still looking.

Posted: 17 Mar 2012 3:36 pm
by David Mason
EQ - Low-12 Mid -6 Highs 2
Equalizer - 0.......12........-12

in the EQ section,turn the bass down all the way, the mid frequency up and the mid level up all the way
I sure do love musicians... :lol:

In my opinion, the Dobro's R~R~R~RRRRR... noise (ahem...tone) is peaking around 2.2K-2.5K. With the X-Edit, you can set your mid and treble controls to "bracket" this, say 1.6 and 3.2. However, it's a good idea to remember that a PSG is kicking a fairly full frequency range - lots of bass, lots of mids, lots of treble. So you might want to use the X-edit to drop the mids low (800) and the treble high (4.0) and cut your way to the peak.

The other thing about dobros is you don't need them anymore to "cut through the mix" - you have a volume control. I can't find a frequency distribution chart (after 12 seconds of trying real hard) but if I remember right, a Dobro has a really erratic output of peaks and valleys, and I don't think the RP's can be tricked into doing that - they have a good smooth output... :lol: And the tone you'd want for a band situation would be in a really narrow range, and solo or duo you'd want more bass and lower mids (if you can even find them on a dobro). The people who use a graphic EQ -> "dobro sim" just alternate high/low settings on the sliders just to jack things around.

I should mention, trying to intentionally make a PSG sound low-fi :roll: is not something I've pursued with much vigor. Personally, I'd try a very light metal "bar" first, like a cheap chromed-steel guitar slide.

Posted: 18 Mar 2012 10:34 am
by Richard Sinkler
I tried both the above patches, and neither were anywhere close to a dobro sound in my opinion. I didn't try tweaking them, but like I said, they weren't even close. I had better luck with the acoustic guitar model in the RP. I might see if that can be tweaked to get closer to a dobro sound.

I think if the RP155 had a 7 band EQ model, it might be possible to get close, but I don't see that happening with the EQ models the currently have.

Back to the Bo-Bro for me.

EDIT: Well, I somehow missed Bill Moore's post. I will give his suggestion a try in the next couple of days.

Posted: 18 Mar 2012 12:09 pm
by Bill Moore
It's hard to explain the settings, so here is a screen shot of the dobro program, in the x-edit program. I did a little refinement and, to me, it sounds pretty much the same as using a 7 band eq. Download x-edit from Digitech, it's easier to see what's happening. What makes the dobro sound is the "wah" effect.


Image

Posted: 20 Mar 2012 9:59 am
by Bill Moore
Here is, I think a better patch. Simpler,just the wah effect and some delay. You might experiment with small changes in the wah, maybe form about 43 to 48, ithink 46 or 47 works pretty well. Here is the picture:


Image

Posted: 20 Mar 2012 1:50 pm
by Jack Stanton
Bill,
Sounds better than mine. The wah is diffinetly the way to go. Close enough for the two songs a night I use it for!

Posted: 29 Apr 2012 1:34 pm
by Paul Shambroom
I'm trying to do the same thing with a Zoom G3 multi-effect pedal. Anyone have any experience and suggested settings with this?

Posted: 30 Apr 2012 3:20 am
by David Mason
As a kinda-aside, in that screen shot, I see a "65 Blackface Twin"? In my opinion, The Digitech engineers look at that as a 65-watt tube amp, with overdive distortion that kicks in pretty early, and it's not really the best sounding option for steel guitar. I prefer the 100-watt "HiWatt" model, the upper harmonics are a lot clearer. And as always, use the computer edit to lower the center frequencies of the mid and high controls- for some reason the Digitech guys set the mids around 2200 and the highs at 3600 or so, it varies from model to model. Dump your highs to around 2600 and the mids to 800, and those controls start to DO something nice.

If you use your wah settings in the treble-obsessed standard settings, it may have an unpleasant effect. Since you can save the wah+altered mids and highs, you can probably come up with a better-sounding "notched" setting with it's own revamped treble/mid values.

Posted: 30 Apr 2012 6:19 am
by Bill Moore
here is the latest variation I've tried. A bit better, I think. No amp sim in this one.

Image

Posted: 2 May 2012 5:31 am
by Greg Wisecup
Can't wait to try it. Could you post an audio clip?

Posted: 8 Jun 2012 2:10 am
by Richard Sinkler
This last one from Bill Moore is pretty close. The closest I have heard yet. I used it on a couple of songs tonight and was pleasantly surprised. I think I might add a little reverb, as it was a little dry.

Posted: 8 Jun 2012 4:17 am
by Greg Wisecup
The 7 band graphic equalizer trick from Richard will be hard to beat.

Posted: 19 Jun 2012 8:18 am
by Richard Sinkler
Thanks Greg. Financial hardship made me have to sell my Bo-Bro last month.

This last patch for the RP is pretty good. I just found it a little dry, so I added some reverb to the patch. It's also a little thin sounding compared to a Bo-Bro or Matchbro, but according to my guitar player and some friends in the audience, it cuts through better, but the various "Bro's" sound more authentic. I wish I could get a recording of us so I could hear it. I think this is going to work for me though. I may try to add the EQ in the RP, but have a feeling it will screw up what Bill has found for this patch. Doesn't hurt to try though.

Thanks again to Bill Moore. Good work my man.

Posted: 19 Jun 2012 10:31 am
by Bill Moore
Hey Rich, here's another version. This time I took a basic program that I like the sound of, lowered the effects level a little, from 21 to 13, then added the wah. Another thing, the min and max controls on the wah are now set at the same number, 27 in this case. If you do it like that, it almost acts like a tone control, lower numbers have more bass, higher numbers, more treble. I think 27 is a good compromise.


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Posted: 19 Jun 2012 12:11 pm
by Richard Sinkler
Thanks Bill. I'll give that a shot. You sure have a lot more patience than I have when doing this stuff.