The Steel Guitar Forum

I just tried to apply one, I'm very unhappy in the quality of these, I guess I will have to make my own.

Aside from coating it with decal restoring solution does anyone have any other ideas?

It just came apart it about a hundred pieces.

If it is a water-slide decal, you need to treat it in a specific way.

Google is your friend:
http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/decals.htm

I have been a model builder longer than I played music so I know how to apply water slide decals.
I was able to get it, but I had to burn up my backup decal for my next project right off the bat, oh well.

Here is some pics that show today's adventure:

Oh Noooooo!


Second attempt using decal film liquid:



Here is a N scale GP9 that I decorated about eight years ago (those are some mighty fine decals):

Love the tracks and sleepers too!

Hugh - good timing as I'm getting ready to apply one of these to a Stringmaster D8 I'm refinishing. Being a decal amateur myself, any words of advice on using the decal liquid film and best procedure? I would greatly appreciate that. Thanks, Mark

I used Microscale Industries Liquid Decal Film applied with a #2 sable brush, let dry.
Using the plastic board material that the decal is shipped with, I taped the very edges (only two opposing) of the decal to the board, being careful not to tape the decal itself.
I did this to reduce the amount the decal "curled" when put in the water, which I believe is a contributing factor to the decal self-destructing.

I then used Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol to set the decal and prevent any "silvering" from it not being set all the way.
You have to be very careful with this step because the decal gets softened by the setting solution and can get damaged very easily.

The result is what I got on my second attempt above after a lot of grunting and making a fair share of strange facial expressions.

Thanks Hugh, something so easy, yet not for the faint of heart at all. I've order an extra decal, just in case...