Page 1 of 1

changing strings/tuning pedals/levers

Posted: 1 Feb 2012 7:43 pm
by Jason Bergeron
Could anyone tell me where I could find a video tutorial on changing pedal steel strings and tuning the pedals and levers? I did find one video on how to change strings on youtube, but it was hard to see some of what the guy in the video was doing.

Posted: 1 Feb 2012 8:16 pm
by Lane Gray
What kind of guitar? there are al least three ways of attaching strings, and the tuning procedure changes depending on your changer type.

video

Posted: 1 Feb 2012 8:20 pm
by David Beckner
Jason
I have a video that I made last year . I was in Texas at Jim Lindsey's house and he changed the strings, tweaked and tuned an old ShoBud that I had at the time.I picked up the cam corder and taped this for my own reference. He did alot of explaining about the how's and why's of what he was doing. I will have to find it again , but I will gladly make you a copy.

guitar

Posted: 1 Feb 2012 8:36 pm
by Jason Bergeron
Mine is a 1981 D10 Sho-Bud Super Pro; I have 5 knee levers (came with 6) and 8 pedals.

Posted: 1 Feb 2012 10:20 pm
by Lane Gray
I think by 81 they were using the groove rather than the post.
You'll fish the ball into the groove and pull up on it, keeping tension on the string. Did you let go of the string, it will fall down out of the groove. Put the other end in the tuner and tighten it up like any other string.

To tune it, tune all of the open strings at the keyhead. and then you tune your changes with the nylon nut. since you have an all pull guitar with one pullrod for each change, the order you tune the changes does not really matter. Some work their way from left to right along the guitar, I usually work from 1st string to tenth at the changer, working my way down each string.

attaching strings

Posted: 2 Feb 2012 8:57 am
by Jason Bergeron
I removed the last string on my C6 neck to see how to attach it onto the guitar and I'm having difficulty getting it to hook. I even tried using a flat screw diver to get it in but no luck. I know that this can't be that difficult. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Posted: 2 Feb 2012 9:14 am
by Lane Gray
if you mean the 10th, the heaviest one, you unwittingly picked the hardest one, because it just barely fits in the slot.
Try the first string. it'll help the first few times to either hold a flashlight in your left hand or use a head-mounted flashlight. Hold the string so the hole in the ball points to the finger; angle the string diagonally backwards (like put the edge of your hand on the endplate), push it slowly down the finger til you see/feel it find the groove. The thinner strings have an easier time of it, but by the time you've done 8, you should have enough of a grasp that the last two should go OK

Posted: 2 Feb 2012 11:46 am
by CrowBear Schmitt
Jason,perhaps you could check w: some of them Steelin' Cajuns
like Daniel Cormier among others
otherwise, if you use skype, i'm sure you could connect up w: someone who could help you
i use skype & sent you an email about hookin' up

Posted: 2 Feb 2012 1:51 pm
by John Swain
Jason, on my Super Pro I had to file flats right behind the ball on the .068 string C6 #10...JS

strings

Posted: 3 Feb 2012 8:07 pm
by Jason Bergeron
I think I was able to out smart those tricky last strings and hook them in right. I had to stand by the changer end of the guitar, fish the ball end into it and when I pulled up, it hooked like it was supposed to. Odd but at least it's in there.

Posted: 3 Feb 2012 8:19 pm
by Lane Gray
Yup!! It gets easier as you get the knack (but not The Knack, they're passé)

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 5:05 pm
by Bill Ford
Lane,
Not to be a smart a$$ but, easier to do #1-#5, then #10- #6.

Jason,
Do a search on changing strings, lots of good info.Or look here.

http://steelguitar.com/strings.html

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 5:12 pm
by Lane Gray
Hmmm. I'd never thought about working outside in. I'll give it a whack. Although I did think that the first time learning to put 'em into the groove, that big 68-70 should be last, since it just barely fits

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 5:18 pm
by Jason Bergeron
The biggest string that I use on the E9h is a 38 and a 60 on the C6th.

trick to hold string in the changer

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 5:33 pm
by Ed McCollum
After I put the string in the groove, I stick an old worn out toothbrush in the changer to hold the string in place. The worn out bristles have just enough spring left in them to hold the sting and free up both hands for the rest of the chore. Works with a groove or a peg.

Ed

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 6:14 pm
by Lane Gray
Jason Bergeron wrote:The biggest string that I use on the E9h is a 38 and a 60 on the C6th.
60? Typically I see either 68 or 70 for the low C and a 54 on the F. If the C is 60, what do you use for the F?

strings

Posted: 6 Feb 2012 6:53 pm
by Jason Bergeron
Well, a friend of mine fixed my guitar and put new strings on it. I'm not sure what gauges he used. The gauges I mentioned are the ones that my deceased father used. He played Cajun music, so I assume he used different gauges than other musicians.


He used the G7th tuning on the C6 neck. The tuning is G, D, B, G, E, D, G, B, E, G. The gauges are: .011 plain, .013 plain, .017 plain, .024 wound, .030 wound, .036 wound, .042 wound, .048 wound, .054 wound, .060 wound.


He used the E9th "Nashville" tuning on the E9th neck. The tuning is F#, D#, G#, E#, B, G#, F#, E, D, B. The Gauges are: .013 plain, .015 plain, .010 plain, .014 plain, .018 plain, .022 plain, 0.26 wound, 0.30 wound, 0.34 wound, 0.38 wound.

Posted: 7 Feb 2012 5:43 am
by Bill Ford
FWIW tip...I have a piece of soft sponge to hold the string if/when one breaks(keeps your (string) balls out of the changer)also a cosmetic wedge to hold the string in place while you wind it up. Bill
Image