Need help with new guitar design

J Hill · From: Colorado, USA

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I'm making a list of things I need to decide on before I have a little wooden Frypan guitar made for me. So I'd really appreciate all the opinions I can get on the following.

1 - I'd like to have 2 or 3 of the fret-markers be visibly different from all the others in order to spot them them a little quicker. Sometimes I hit #7 when I mean to go to #9 so I'd like 9 to possibly look different from the rest. And maybe fret #15? The 12th fret is pretty obvious already. What are your thoughts on this?

2 - The amp jack has to be on one of either side, not the end, so which side do you find more practical to have that plug/cord on? It would be more convenient to have it on the near side, but would it tend to get in the way?

3. Now just for fun....I know that the color and kind of wood is more of a subjective and personal thing, but I'm thinking to have a darker body with a lighter fretboard. What do you think would look nice?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

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Thomas Temple · From: Florida, USA

Can fully understand the need for more distinct fret markers, have seen guitars that use roman numerals which may be an option or maybe a color scheme such as red, yellow, green, white on 3/5/7/9 double dots on 12 and repeat for the next section. I am a newbie but have thought about being able to pick out the fret quicker and may see about using some colored stickers to see if it helps. Keep us posted on your ultimate solution.

Hal Braun · From: Eustis, Florida, USA

My 36 Rickenbacher has the input jack on the player side.. and it is kind of a pain, mitigated with a right angle plug. I think having the plug on the side away from you is more practical.

I also know what you mean about fret markers.. my old Fender Deluxe 8 seems to be about as clear a layout as any I have seen.

Tom Pettingill · From: California, USA (deceased)

Mike Anderson · From: British Columbia, Canada

Style 4 Weissenborn fret markers! No question! Smile

Bill Creller · From: Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)

When you become more experienced. the high-lighted fret markers wont mean as much, and you will notice that you will get the bar in the right place, even on a strange guitar. Smile

J Hill · From: Colorado, USA

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Bill...I knew someone was going to say that. LOL I think after seeing those Weissenborn markers I might go with those.

I've been watching this thread all day and sharing the opinions everyone is giving with various folks helping me make these decisions. I appreciate all your imput very much! Please keep them coming as it's really helping me out a lot.

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Terry VunCannon · From: Greensboro, North Carolina, USA

The look of a National Dynamic is one of my faves.

J Hill · From: Colorado, USA

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Another question for all those who can abide all these questions of mine. It's about the Nut and Bridge/Saddle.

Is brass better for conduction than using a bone Nut? And what about a brass Bridge/Saddle? Any advantages to using brass?

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Peter den Hartogh · From: Cape Town, South Africa

One thing I like about some lapsteels is equal thickness of the body and the neck.

Some necks are gradually getting thinner at the nut.
This causes the steel to wobble when you put it on a flat surface, like some stands have.

In fact, I have to put something under the neck of the Harbor Light to avoid this rocking wobble,
when using a stand. On my lap this is no problem, of course.

Also be aware how the tuning keys are mounted to the headstock.
If they are mounted upright like a pedal steel guitar, make sure that the key for the LOWEST string is far enough from the nut.
If not, your left hand keeps crashing into that key when sliding down to the first fret.
If they are mounted like the above pics, it would not be a problem.
_________________
1977 Sho~Bud D10 ProIII Custom; Sho~Bud SD10 The Professional ; ETS S10 5x5;
Fender 1000; 1993 Remington U12; 1978 Emmons S10 P/P; GeorgeB Weissenborn;
Fluger Cat-Can; Asher Electro Hawaiian; Gibson BR4; Fender FS52; Guyatone 8str;
Fender Resonator ; Epiphone Coronet 1937; Rickenbacher Ace; Rickenbacher NS;
Dynalap 8string; Harbor Lights 8string; Aiersi Tri-Cone; Fender Stringmaster

Stephan Miller · From: Silver Spring, Maryland, USA

Tone-wise, brass is on the bright side. Of course your guitar & amp tone controls can come into play also. But if you have your instrument set up with brass nut & bridge, expect a basically brighter sound than bone would give. Doing a web search on these materials as well as corian, Tusq, stainless steel etc. will give you a wide range of opinions & preferences. Good luck!

J Hill · From: Colorado, USA

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I do like the idea of having a 'brighter' sound to get more of a 'steel' sound. If I want more of a soft, more acoustic sound, I think the tone controls on the instrument and amp can help out with that, hopefully.

Thanks for your replies guys.

P.S. Maybe I should ask what you guys prefer as far as the material for the Nut is concerned, and why. Stainless steel....what kind of tone does that give as opposed to bone? And how is steel as opposed to brass?

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Bill Creller · From: Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)

I can't tell the difference between brass, or stainless steel. Both being hard enough to transfer to the body etc. I never use bone.

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