Session 500 remote switch replacement wire?

[Lane Gray]

I got that remote switch from Lynn Stafford (thanks, Lynn), but it didn't work.
My trusty multimeter and half-decent mind for troubleshooting quickly figured out that the bare wire has no continuity from one end to the other.
Since I run a Holy Grail anyway, I was thinking of temporarily tying the reverb wire to the bare so I can switch the fuzz and phase.
Is there a recommended wire to replace that? Phone wire would work, but probably wouldn't last.

[Lane Gray]

Any ideas? I know SOMEONE has to have replace the cable in the last 30 years

[Richard Sinkler]

Can't you just use any good multi-conductor cable?

Most people probably haven't had to replace it because not many can carry that dude around for 30 years

[Lane Gray]

yes, any good multi conductor would. I just would not recognize a good multi conductor cable if I ran over it. Actually, that is 1 test that I could recognize a good 1 by. But I don't think lowes or radio shack would let me take samples of the cable to the parking lot for a test run.

Would any 4 wire or more from lowes do the job?

[Darvin Willhoite]

You're gonna need a good two conductor with shield microphone type cable. The outside diameter is around .155 I think, I'm about 500 miles from my Session 500. Look at Partsexpress.com or Jameco.com they should have what you need.

[Lane Gray]

Wouldn't I need 3-conductor if I wanted to restore reverb control?
Phase, fuzz, reverb (mine has a sweet sounding tank)

[Richard Sinkler]

Opening the box should let you see how many conductors the wire has. If in doubt, buy wire that has more conductors and just use what you need. Really, pretty much any cable that Parts Express has will be good cable. I'm not sure you need "the best" for that application.

I would concentrate more on buying someone to carry the Hernia 500 for you.

[Darvin Willhoite]

You're probably right about the number of conductors. It's been a long time since I've even looked at my remote. Most amp foot switches use two conductor with shield, but they only control two functions, I forgot about the phaser control on the 500 remote, so you would need three conductor with shield. This will make it a little tougher to find, but there is some out there somewhere available.

The problem with the existing cable is probably near the box, or the plug, so you could cut a little off at the ends and re-solder the wires to the plug and switches. As I remember, the existing cable is really long anyway. Cut off a bit and check it with your continuity tester until you get a complete circuit. Make sure you note where the wires go on the switches and plug before you de-solder them.

[Darvin Willhoite]

You're probably right about the number of conductors. It's been a long time since I've even looked at my remote. Most amp foot switches use two conductor with shield, but they only control two functions, I forgot about the phaser control on the 500 remote, so you would need three conductor with shield. This will make it a little tougher to find, but there is some out there somewhere available.

The problem with the existing cable is probably near the box, or the plug, so you could cut a little off at the ends and re-solder the wires to the plug and switches. As I remember, the existing cable is really long anyway. Cut off a bit and check it with your continuity tester until you get a complete circuit. Make sure you note where the wires go on the switches and plug before you de-solder them.

[Pit Lenz]

In this thread from August 2000 Jack Stoner explained the wies and their functions.

posted 20 August 2000 03:44 PM
Pin 1 is the string effect (pin 1 and ground)
Pin 2 is the phase shifter (pin 2 and ground)
Pin 3 is the reverb.
They also use the ground pin.
The remote reverb is a 10K Audio pot.
Connect one end to Pin 3, connect the other end of the pot and center (wiper) to ground.

------------------
should the cable be shielded or does it matter?

------------------
    
Yes, the original Peavey remote had shielded cable.

Guess you can also always address Mike Brown for more information...

pit

[Lane Gray]

I have the schematic and a couple diagrams from Gene (Ford?) at Peavey.

I was just wondering about replacement cable. The plug end looks like it got kinked, I'll try taking a few inches from it

[Kevin Mincke]

I would cut off a few inches from the suspected bad end (normally the wires break going into the control box from getting wrapped/wound instead of coiled/looped when storing) and use an ohm meter to see if the wire has and other bad spots and just resolder it. I wouldn't think you would find the problem in the middle of the harness. As Darvin pointed out, it is quite long anyway. Maybe redo both ends and eliminate any future problems.

[Ronnie Sellers]

Hey guys I've got problems with the remote switch
on my session 500.
The amp will not come on unless the remote switch cable
is pluged in.
Any ideas what would cause this.
Thanks Ronnie.

[Kevin Mincke]

I would look at the jacks as they may be shorting (grounding) when a 1/4” is not plugged in.

[Richard Sinkler]

Hey guys I've got problems with the remote switch
on my session 500.
The amp will not come on unless the remote switch cable
is pluged in.
Any ideas what would cause this.
Thanks Ronnie.

You might want to start your own topic for this. There are probably several members who can help you, but have no interest is a thread on replacing the remote cable.

[Kevin Mincke]

Agree Richard, I almost posted the same remarks. New topic would generate a better focused response.