RP 155 Reverb Delay Someone please explain

Jon Ross · From: Oklahoma, USA

I once bought a rp 100 for a guitar and never used learned how to use it. Now I have bought a RP 155 for my steel. I do not uderstand how to set the knobs. Of course volume and frequency are self explanitory but where do the others go. What about the By-Pass. A good simple explanation would be most helpful.

Garry Simpson · From: Oklahoma

I can email you the manual for the Rp155 if that would help. To me the easiest way to set one up is to use the "X-edit" software available at the Digitech website.

A simple way to get started is just to download some presets put together by forum members here.

Check out this thread:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=188121&highlight=rp155

Hope this helps.
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Carter S10-DB w/E66, Black Box, Hilton, Digitech RP155, Nashville 112 w/burr brown, Nashville 400, George L cables, Steelseat.com, 68 telecaster, Peavey Special 130

Darvin Willhoite · From: Roxton, Tx. USA

I agree with Garry, hook it up to your computer and set up your own settings the way you want. I have one, but I never used it for steel, only 6 string. It was one of the easier to program multi-effects units I've used.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.

Jon Ross · From: Oklahoma, USA

Garry,

Thanks for the information, but am I to understand that I most load additional files to the RP 155 from my computer before I can simply have reverb and delay from the unit. I only want reverb and delay for my 112.

Dick Sexton · From: Greenville, Ohio

No Jon, I don't think they are saying that. You can dial up and save reverb and delay settings without connecting to you computer. I think what they are implying is that a lot of work has already been done and presets figured out. They are there on that link if you desire to download and use them. But you don't have to.

I just bought an RP155 myself and am in the process of figuring out how to do exactly what you are wanting to do. As much as these things will do, I, like you, have little need for most of them.

I'll assume you have the manual. Start on page 16 "Editing Function" and refer to the Tone Library, page 41 and the Effects Library, page 42.

I suggest you start with Tone, page 41-Clean 1 (#20) and Effects, page 42-Digital Delay+Hall Reverb (#22)

This will give you a starting point. Go slow, read carefully. The first 1 through 50 preset slots are user usable and can be used to store your own personal presets. These are pretty good machines, but the books leave a little to be desired.

David Mason · From: Cambridge, MD, USA

I have a 250 which is a bit earlier, but the same process applies. To use only the reverb and delay, you can turn off the amp modeling, turn off the compression etc. -just push the first knob and keep clicking down the options with the little buttons. You can store the model with just the reverb and delay "ON", but it still stores the setting of the thing that are off. So it makes sense to learn a bit about the amp models, overdrives and all. I really never use the overdrives, just different amp models - the "HIWATT" is the best steel amp I've found, and the "CLEAN" is bright and the "BRIGHT" is clean - (?)

You really have to go through the whole thing carefully, it amazes me when someone who has spent 20 years assembling his real equipment spends 20 minutes on a modeler and dismisses it as junk. The first one takes a few months to learn, then it gets quicker.

I think that the single biggest reason to download the X-edit software from the Digitech site and learn the USB editing functions for the RP's is to reset the centerpoint of the EQ controls. In the X-edit screen, they become parametric. For whatever reasons, the Digitech engineers have set the centerpoint of the mids around 2200K and the highs around 3600K, though it varies from model to model. I dump them down to the mids at 800 and the highs at 2400, and save the model as a starting point. One HIWATT, one BRIGHT etc. Even unhooked from the computer, from then on when you move the knobs on that model they'll be using the centerpoint of the EQ's you have set, and you can save further variants of the models as you go. It's a brilliantly-designed machine for quick adjustments, but you have to build the right model to use it that way.

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