Bigger Bars?

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Leo Grassl
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Bigger Bars?

Post by Leo Grassl »

Hey,

Ive been at the steel for about five months now and have been playing with a Dunlop 920. It fits me okay but I tried a larger bar while I was at ISGC this year and found that it was more comfortable to play with.

Since I cant remember what it was that I tried, I was looking for some guidance on what the different options for bigger bars are. Any suggestions?
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Erv Niehaus
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Post by Erv Niehaus »

I am a fan of the BJS 15/16" John Hughey bar.
Right size, right weight. :D
S.M. Johnson
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I guess it all depends.....................

Post by S.M. Johnson »

I've been told by experts that "SIZE" is not all that important. The bar, of course, does not need to cover all 10-12-14 strings at one time.

A bullet nose for moving across the strings is truly essential for the serious player. A length and weight that will allow the player the full control and flexibility of manipulation is also extremely important. Weight it not a necessary factor.

Try several one will likely feel 'perfect'. Later in life you might seek to change but just let it happen.
Ray Anderson
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bars

Post by Ray Anderson »

The bigger bar has better tone capabilities, IMHO. I've tried them all. The smaller bar works better on faster pickin'but by using the bigger bar my capabilities and reflexes with the smaller are better and more smooth when I do use the smaller bar. YMMV :wink: :)
Kevin Bollivar
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Post by Kevin Bollivar »

I'd be goin with BJS bars....the sustain is something else,I was used to playin with a 3/4" Ernie Ball...when I got the 1" BJS bar.it was like a difference of day and night.You'll be surprised,thats more then likely,what you had.To me,the extra weight,made everything come alive!! :D
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Curt Langston
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Post by Curt Langston »

John Pearse 1" Thermocryonic Big Daddy

Sustain for days!

IMHO

:o
Jack Willis
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Which bar?

Post by Jack Willis »

What Curt said.....
Mullen SD10 pre RP, Milkman 40w mini steel, Wet reverb mono, Profex II, Yamaha keyboard, lots of books about music theory and PSG.
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Joe Naylor
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Post by Joe Naylor »

If you want lots and lots of opinions just make some bars and try to sell them at a steel show.

been there - done that - and by the way did not get a "T" shirt.

most say that a 1" is the large bar - just from that experience I can tell you --- WHAT EVER YOU GET USE TO WORKS.

Like a lot of the steel guitar stuff - it is what YOU like and DO NOT get confussed with everyone elses facts.

I did make some 2" ones just for fun and guys said they would practice with the really big one and then they were faster with their regular bar.

I actually made them as a joke but sold ever one of them quickly.

Just my experience.

Joe Naylor
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plus Road Cases and other stuff too
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Fred Glave
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Post by Fred Glave »

I had problems getting good vibrato with the standard size bars. I would move the bar too fast and it sounded like a tremelo turned up to fast on your amp. The bigger bar help me get nice slow even vibrato and the sustain is very nice. Now with faster songs, I like the smaller bar, and since using the larger bar for awhile now I'm able to get better vibrato with the smaller one too for some reason. Maybe I had to train my hands and brain together to get it all to work.
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Lane Gray
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Post by Lane Gray »

Generally, more mass= longer sustain and cleaner tone and harder surface = crisper tone and better attack.
This is why since the thirties they've mainly used chromed brass.
I will use other substances: if a song uses only A, B or E chords (brief forays to D if I feel adventurous), I play my solo open as I drink a soda, beer or whatever's handy. If I kill the beverage in time, I'll use the glass as a bar. DO NOT USE AN Al CAN. trust me. The glass or glass bottle have adequate properties, but not much sustain. Al can gives an amusing thunk.
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chris ivey
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Post by chris ivey »

i stumbled on a big dekley 1inch bar long ago and it adopted me. just feels right and can't go back.
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Jerry Overstreet
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Post by Jerry Overstreet »

Lane Gray wrote:Generally, more mass= longer sustain and cleaner tone and harder surface = crisper tone and better attack.
This is why since the thirties they've mainly used chromed brass.
Some may use chromed brass, but there are many others who build bars from stainless steel. Geo L's and Bullet Bars to name just a couple. I don't believe chromed bars have a monopoly on the guitar steel business.

Size wise, to each his own. I've tried the bigger bars, but always go back to the 7/8" stainless bars I bought from the Jackson guitar co in the 80's.
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Lane Gray
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Post by Lane Gray »

The thing I find amazing is that my first purchased steel came with a bar. I have. Bought seven bars since then, 1980. Only my most recent purchase and that bar are still with me
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Clete Ritta
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Post by Clete Ritta »

I started on an S10 with a 920 as well. I bought a 921 when I got a U12. I found it easier to use and now use it on 10 string as well. Its 1" X 3-3/4" and 11.5 oz.

Clete
Bill Miller
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Post by Bill Miller »

I alternate between a regular 15/16 BJS bar and a Hughey 15/16 BJS bar. I grab the heavier bar for the slow stuff since it seems to have a slightly thicker tone and more sustain. That could be my imagination. The Hughey bar is noticeably more manoeuverable for faster stuff...and that's not my imagination.
Not that I'm looking around, but who else makes chrome plated bars besdies BJS? I've never noticed any others available.
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Leo Grassl
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Post by Leo Grassl »

Thanks every one for your input! Its been very helpful.

Since Im nowhere near a guitar shop that has any real of selection of bars I dont really get the luxury of trying out a bar before I buy.( I should have thought of that in St. Louis) javascript:emoticon(':?')That said I was thinking of buying the Dunlop 921 to see if a 1" bar fits first, and then move on to a BJS or John Pearse.

The main reason for this is because I cant tell if a BJS 15/16" will be thick enough or if Ill be kicking myself for not getting a 1" bar. The 921 is only 18 $ on amazon and it probably wouldnt hurt to have a few bars around anyway.

Thanks again,

Leo
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Leo Grassl
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2 " bars

Post by Leo Grassl »

Hey Joe you should consider making more 2" bars! Like you said Ill bet they'd sell out fast. Let us know if you do.
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Clete Ritta
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Post by Clete Ritta »

Another personal factor in bar diameter and length for me is finger and palm size. I have large hands and the 920 (7/8" X 3-1/4") bar is not as easy for me to hold as the 921. It is shorter than my index finger and a lot shorter than my middle and I would get cramps in the palm of my hand occasionally (also due to nerve damage). The extra 1/8" width of the 921 has a wider tangent which makes it easier for me to "roll" for vibrato and the longer length fits just right in my palm. Its all about comfort for me. The extra weight just means that much less effort pressing down on the strings, but more effort picking up, but since I dont pick the bar up as often as press down, the choice was obvious. I dont notice any difference in tone between the two personally. ;)

Clete
Mike Eisler
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Bar size

Post by Mike Eisler »

Leo:

I have been told by a very good steel player that the size of the bar does matter. He said the larger bars are cleaner but brighter. The 7/8 bar was used by Buddy Emmons to get a "dirtier sound", not for ease of play.
He also recommends BJS bars. I split the difference and play with a 15/16 BJS bar. Lately I've wondered if the length of the bar should be customized for the size of a persons hand.

Mike Eisler
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Leo Grassl
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Post by Leo Grassl »

Clete,

How you described your issue with the 920 is identical to my situation. Rolling it, and just holding onto it in general, especially when going up on the first few strings. Just to small a bar for my hands I guess. When I tried a bigger bar moving around was much more comfortable. I ordered a 921 yesterday, it should be here by Friday. :o
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David Mason
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Post by David Mason »

I usually use a 1.25" X 3.75" light bar, either leaded crystal at 6 oz or delrin or MDF nylon at 4 to 5 oz. I also have four hollow steel bars, 3/4", 1" and 1.25"... but the delrin and glass are smoother. Some people try a Shubb/Pearce dobro-style steel with a handle on top, but I needs me my rounded nosejob.

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