Buy a 10 Band Equalizer

Robert Sallstrom · From: Georgia, USA

Over the years I have been searching for "That Sound", like every other steel player. Spent a small fortune on Amplifiers and Effects. Got close in my bedroom studio. But, when out gigging always felt my sound was "shrieky" at increased output watts.
Recently bought a Dunlop Ten Band Equalizer. In leafing thruogh some old posts on this forum I saw a casual reference to the "600 to 800HZ Notch".
Inserted a -6DB at 700HZ and VOILA my sound was "Sweetened" without being muffled.
I would suggest every new player to spend $100 or so on a ten band equalizer, and avoid years of frustration.
Some amps (ie NV 400) have a "Shift" function, but I believe the external device will work with any amp.
If someone knows the technical reason for this I would appreciate a response....Thanks in advance.
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Emmons LeGrandeIII, NV400, +sundry

Dave Grafe · From: Hudson River Valley NY

Notching the lower mids somewhere between 400Hz and 800Hz is a common practice amongst pedal steel players, Robert, whether through use of a dedicated graphic or parametric EQ device or simply by using an amp's built-in tone controls. The reason for this is that the powerful midrange signal of the magnetic pickup system dominates and obscurs the sweet lows and highs of the guitar, thus this equalization to allow for a broader, smoother tonal spectrum.

To this end, nearly all Fender amps have been designed with a built-in midrange notch that sweeps from above 1KHz to below 400Hz as the treble control is increased. This notch band is sometimes coupled to a descrete midrange control tha allow it to be further manipulated.

A few amps, such as the old Randall Steel Man, have a 5-band EQ with steel-friendly filter centers between the pre out and the power amp input, as well as high and low filter controls for the internal reverb. These, and amps such as the NV400 that feature a sweepable notch filter, pretty much eliminate the need for an external unit and the various associated problems that accompany such devices.

In any case, it sounds like you have at long last found your holy grail, now go have some fun with that steel thingy!

Robert Sallstrom · From: Georgia, USA

Hi Dave
Thanks for the quick and imformative response.
I broke down and reread the NV400 Manual, about the "Shift" function. It sounded like what I wanted, but I like the external equalizer because: attenuating below 100HZ helps reduce hum , and High frequency seams to help with neon sign buzz. Also, boosting some intermediate freqs enhances overall tone.
I'm anxious to try it with other amps.
Thanks again for the imfo, it makes good sense after the fact.
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Emmons LeGrandeIII, NV400, +sundry

Brad Sarno · From: St. Louis, MO USA

On a good ol' Fender amp, simply set the treble around 3.5, and you have that same kind of dip, although round and musical. No need for added gadgets with those classic amps. The dip sits right where you want it. Just listen to Lloyd Green or Jerry Byrd or Tom Brumley.

B

Robert Sallstrom · From: Georgia, USA

Hi Brad,
I'm a surprised there hasn't been more discussion of this subject on the forum. I guess anyone that has been in "the business" a long time assumes everyone knows about it. Newbee,s should take note.
With your comment, I see why my practice amp (Fender Twin Chorus) could sound pretty good at low output level.
Thanks for the input
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Emmons LeGrandeIII, NV400, +sundry

Brad Sarno · From: St. Louis, MO USA

I think you have made a very valid and well supported observation. That frequency range in the 600-800Hz area is definitely a very strong and dense region, and many or most of us find that by cutting or clearing out that range a bit with our EQ, whatever EQ it is, really seems to make steel guitar sound more pleasing to the ear and works well with our speakers.

Brad

Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

My issues with graphic EQ is that when players are just learning how to play they are messing with equipment to get a sound when they should be practicing. Think about violin players learning how to get good bowing technique. They can be a crutch that gets in the way of learning how to control your sound with your hands.

My issue with graphic EQ on a professional level is that when you introduce another EQ system in front of your amps EQ there can be phase cancelation issues. When it comes to recording it can be be a very noticeable degradation of tone.

I think EQ devices have a very important role when used properly though. You are on to something with the mid range notch. I find myself doing the same thing with my old Fenders by setting my treble around 3 and 1/2.
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Bob

Dave Grafe · From: Hudson River Valley NY

What Bob said...

Bobby Snell · From: Austin, Texas

Lots of good info on this thread. Since the title says to buy one, here's some ways that an EQ pedal can be a powerful tool in the box.

--Use in effects loop of the amp.

--Use at end of long pedal/signal chain to feed the amp.

--As a solo boost, typically done in either of the first 2 examples. This can use the EQ as a boost, or by cutting the levels with the EQ for rythmn and bypassing for the leads.

--Looped into the pedalboard for use with selected effects.

--Use between steel and passive VP to shape/boost signal.

Good devices that have input and output level controls give the most utility. Conventional use depends more on cutting levels along the bands, but fun can be had by selectively overdriving stuff (i.e., making a "frown" that boosts mids).

When 25-yr-old pickups were going south in my Williams, I used an MXR10-band out of the steel to VP to get an acceptable sound. Now happily replaced with Hoffnar's ToneAligners, so the EQ's back in the toolbox! Very Happy

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