The Steel Guitar Forum

I had to take apart my Sho Bud to replace the pick up. Its a long story, but had to pull the rods and remove the changer to ge the pickup out. While I'e got it apart, its time to clean it up. The picture shows the spacer is bent quite a bit. What would cause this? I am assuming I should staighten it out. What should I use to clean the changer? it is oily and dirty. Is there a good tool to use to put the springs back on? Those buggers are stiff.

Go to the local automotive store and get a can of Electronics Cleaner. Set the guitar on the end on some newspapers. Liberaly spray the changer and let the grease drip down on to the newspaper. It will totally clean the changer right down to the metal in a couple of minutes. Don't be afraid to use half a can. Re-lube with Tri-Flow. It's Teflon based.

Here is a picture of the "spacer" I'm wondering how it got bent up so bad. I didnt realise it until I got it off that it looked like this.

I use a cleaner based entirely on orange peels. It works better than anything else I've tried, and I don't feel bad about it going down the drain.

Marc Jenkins wrote:I use a cleaner based entirely on orange peels. It works better than anything else I've tried, and I don't feel bad about it going down the drain.

link or brand name? can it be used with the changer intact?

Just because it's made from orange peels doesn't mean it's not toxic, in fact some citrus cleaners have proven carcinogenic in mice, so use gloves, eye protection and maybe don't pour it down the drain any more...

I took the changer apart and cleaned the fingers with Naptha. Found one that was binding a bit and I fixed that. I had a visit with Bill Lane in St. Paul last week. He worked for many years at Sunesons Steel Guitars in Mpls. He told me not to use any lube, "just keep it clean" . I have alot of different oils including 3N1, fishing reel oil, gun oil, trunpet valve oil. I think I may just stick with the 3N1, thats what Sho-Bud recomends. A little can go along way.

I use generic carburator cleaner from any auto parts store. It usually comes in a gallon can with a "dunk" bucket. Load the parts in the bucket and soak for 30 minutes. Lift the bucket up of and allow the cleaner to drain out back into the gallon can. Then rinse, dry, install and lube those pristine parts.

As far as lube goes:

[1] axles:changer & crosshaft = molybdenum multi purpose auto grease (light coat)
[2] moving parts (changer fingers, rods, bellcranks etc) = Zoom oil, Rem-oil or Tri Flow.

Simple sewing machine oil is all you need.

I got the changer done. Polished the aluminum too, turned out great.

Now I'm working on the headstock. The roller-nut and axle was really gunked up and I carefully pried it out for cleaning. The axle has a slight bow to it. I am assuming that will straighten out when I put it back together. Any tips for the best way to put it back in without damaging the rollers? Should I replace or try to straighten the axle?

Paul, It should go back together easier when it's cleaned and polished. A toothe-pic and some polish will clean those roller grooves. Slight bow in the axle? shouldn't be a problem once it's reassembled. Just counter bend it a little if you want.

Want to warn you, do not over polish(like on a buffing wheel), or you could open up a thousand pits in those castings. I hand polish with non abrasive Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. It's found at Wal-Mart, or any auto parts store.